Flex duct connectors

TREEBARK · 02-20-2012, 11:21 PM

I just wanted to let you I am still at it as other projects pulled me off of this major project. I finally completed installing and reinstalling those boots and registers in the ceiling. So, I have started coating that mastic at the boot and flex connections and pulling the insulation around the flex down to the boots and straping them. Unfortunately, I cut one branch long enough, but cut the insulation too short that it doesn't make it to the wye, so I will have to put a much longer length insulation wrap (I have a large roll of R6 4 ft by 75 ft). Can I use this insulation wrap to cover my boots? The boots are already insulated inside (R4), but the problem I am having is rats and squirrels have been getting into the attic, and I am working on minimizing that, but I can tell they are enjoying hanging out on those boots, they are retangular boxes that they can easily sit on and ...... you know as they should go outside and do their thing like a pet, but they don't, even after pulling the insulation down that is around the flex duct. I have a few boxes that are right against the joists either the end or the length or long side and I cannot get that insulation wrap in between. Would that be a case of do the best you can? Or should I just pile the loose fill insulation I already have in the attic around and on top of the boots? Thanks again for your time.

**beenthere** · 02-21-2012, 03:43 AM

Yep, sometimes, you just gotta make do with what you have to work with.

If the boots are already insulated on the inside, loose fill/insulation will work.

Squirrels, are a pain in the butt.

TREEBARK · 02-21-2012, 07:53 PM

Oh my god, they were going into an opening in the front part of the house between the shingles and the fascia board, so one day I climbed a ladder and one was sticking his head out the corner and I tried to beat the area out to scare him, but he wouldn't come out, so while up on the ladder I went to filling it up with that spray foam insulation. I did it a couple of times to test if he would come out and he still wouldn't, so I just went to filling it up and man he went to scrambling that it scared me that he would do like that squirrel did in Christmas Vacation. That was all I was seeing and I tried to come down the ladder fast, but I missed a step and I went backwards across the ground like I knew gymnastics. It was something else. So, once I got my composure I got back up there slowly and filled it up completely. The next day they chewed away the insulation that was sticking out, but they stopped when they got even with the decking it looked like snow in the front yard where they scattered it all. I am saying all this because they moved to the back patio and peeled my aluminimum gutter screen guards on my gutter back and took chunks of the shingles and the wood to get acces in the attic. I had a roofer do some work and was expecting him to come back and I asked him did he do that work and he said no, so as I examined it closerand I thought I was going to have a stroke. Sunday I screwed down more of that aluminum guard screening, but I am sure they will find another location. So, back in the attic I could tell they were traveling on top of one particular duct, because I could see small little burs sticking up and a small cut in the insulation of that flex duct (another patch job I am going to have to do). I am ready to start performing peramanent removal next, if you know what I mean. I am going to BASS PRO SHOPS!

**beenthere** · 02-21-2012, 08:08 PM

I've had to use traps to get rid of them.

TREEBARK · 02-21-2012, 08:23 PM

I hope that I don't have to do that, but being we are backed up to some woods, it might never end.

**beenthere** · 02-21-2012, 08:28 PM

Once they find a "home", they tend to never leave it.

TREEBARK · 02-21-2012, 08:41 PM

I meant to ask you some questions about all the returns I disconnected in the attic that go down the wall as to how if you have done this, what you do with filling them up and/or closing them off permanently. Last night I decided to remove that top sheet metal piece and takeoff to see what I was dealing with on one return. I could not believe this 3 ft x 4 ft area once removed had an opening between the plates of about 2 inches where they chipped away of an opening and it was two stud spaces. I don't see how that was enough opening period, but I thought I would spray some of that foam spray to fill in those gaps and the rest with that loose fill insulation. But, down there on the bottom of the wall are those return grilles are I was thinking about removing the grilles and putting something like 1/4" plywood and painting it white to match the grille back in behind the grilles. If I were to remove the grille completely I would have to do a lot more work as the base board stops there and then there is the sheetrock to replace and then patching and painting. I can do all that, but I will be working on all that all summer. My wife will go nuts. So, what do you normally do, if again you have done this. Remember, I placed all my returns in the ceilings throughout the house. I will never go back to using them for that, but maybe I should think about if we move one day, someone might want to reclaim that or do something with them that I can't think of right at the moment. Thanks, again.

**beenthere** · 02-21-2012, 08:54 PM

Never had to do something like that.

I would think you can use plywood as you thought.

TREEBARK · 02-21-2012, 09:10 PM

Cool, I'll try it and if it doesn't work I'll try something else. Also, rather it be me or those contractors that moves my furnace over exactly one foot, do I need to make sure the drain still runs straight from the pan out to the eave of the house or can I put two 90's offsetting that one foot distance. I know I would have to drill a new hole outside under the eave, but I won't hesitate to do it, if it needs to remain a straight shot from the overflow drain pan under the furnace exiting the house. Thanks again.

**beenthere** · 02-21-2012, 09:15 PM

Doesn't have to be a straight shot. As long as it has a 1/4" per foot slope.

TREEBARK · 02-25-2012, 05:10 PM

Thank you sir. Can you take one piece of insulation, if it is large enough and wrap most wyes and cutting it to where you don't have to have separate individual pieces to staple together? Or do you have to cut separate pieces?

**beenthere** · 02-25-2012, 05:46 PM

Since I was taught by pieces, I always do pieces.

TREEBARK · 02-25-2012, 10:22 PM

Good, because doing it by yourself would be a struggle for me. I won't feel foolish now doing it your way and as long it is not a code breaker that is what I will do. Also, I see less potential waste. I wanted to tell you over these weeks I keep watching the temperature swings and I know I have been over analyzing it because, it is impossible to not see the temperature jump with a very sensitive thermometer because you have at least 90 degree air coming out of those supply grilles even if it is only 5 minutes run time and it overshoots 2 to 4 degrees every time. I think you said wait x amount of minutes before taking that reading, but I do try to time it just before it turns on again or just as it turns on as you can get readings then if your patient. So, throughout the house except for the master bedroom closet, the overall temperature does stay within 2 degrees of the thermostat set point. Again, we can live with it increasing like that in the closet as I would also expect the cooling season will be the opposite and again, we could live with that also. I know you mentioned a damper and I have one, but I am telling you we want it to be able to cool it down this summer. But if you have turned it down to say 68 degrees for several hours and then you manually increase it to say 72 degrees it will overshoot 3 to 4 degrees in some areas of the home and I don't see how you can ever avoid it except not allowing the temperature to swing like that period. After an hour or two of running like this the temperature again stabilizes to within 2 degrees throughout the house. Would you consider this fairly normal? Thanks again.

**beenthere** · 02-26-2012, 04:27 AM

A 2 degree swing at normal/stabilized temp operation/maintenance. Is allowable and common in many homes. Code allows 3 degrees while system is running.

The higher end thermostats that are sensitive to 1/2 degree temp changes can also minimize that swing.

After your hot season this winter, you'll know which dampers can be choked back, to get a tighter temp control, if you want. Generally(not always) the rooms that over shoot in heating, tend to over shoot in cooling also.

TREEBARK · 02-26-2012, 12:32 PM

I do have that higher end thermostat Honeywell touch screen RCT8101. Where is the best place to place a thermostat? The only reason I see it good in the current location of the hallway is there is no immediate supply or return near it, but that is the only reason to me. Seems like the next best place is in the middle of the home, but there are supplies and returns in that open area, but with 11 and 12 foot ceilings maybe not as much of an affect, where it is now located it is all 8 foot ceilings in the hallway and bedrooms around it.