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Old 07-17-2013, 12:56 PM   #1
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Factory start kit vs 5-2-1


I ordered a "Goodman hard start kit CSR-U-1" from an internet vendor. Bought it for my GSZ130181 1.5T heat pump.

Got a CPS Products 5-2-1 kit, model CSRU1. Came with a zip-tie instead of a capacitor bracket. A little internet browsing indicates that the 5-2-1 is the best aftermarket kit.

1. Is there a Goodman factory kit, or do they just sell 5-2-1s?
2. If there is a factory kit, would it be notably better than the 5-2-1?


Last edited by taxmantoo; 07-17-2013 at 12:59 PM.
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Old 07-17-2013, 08:38 PM   #2
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Factory start kit vs 5-2-1


After extensive Googling, I came up with a service bulletin from 2006 which states that Goodman sells Compressor Saver kits CSR-U-1, CSR-U-2, and CSR-U-3, which should be used in non-bleed TXV applications.

Therefore, the CSR-U-1 that I received either came from Goodman or is identical to one that came from Goodman, unless they've changed their start kit provider since 2006.

I'll assume that the seller which represented the 5-2-1 kit as a Goodman product was telling the truth.

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Old 07-18-2013, 12:32 PM   #3
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Factory start kit vs 5-2-1


I just installed a hard start kit on my 3-ton heat pump yesterday. It is a Supco 3W1 and comes with a mounting bracket. Installation was very easy and it works super. It is a "3-wire 5-2-1" kit and is supposed to replace the CSRU1.
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Old 07-18-2013, 01:10 PM   #4
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Factory start kit vs 5-2-1


Looks like the 3 wire Supco and Compressor Saver kits are the ones to use if there isn't a custom kit available from the manufacturer of the O/D unit. I have heard that the Supco can't take a 2nd start within five minutes, but if your system is short cycling that's a problem to be fixed, not the start kit's fault for not keeping up.

Here's a video of somebody abusing his compressor by repeatedly starting with 5-2-1 and two wire kits. Instead of a meter he uses an oscilloscope so you can see the actual current inrush. I just wish he'd also done it with the meter on the incoming power line to show if they increase or reduce the power draw from the breaker box.

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Old 07-18-2013, 04:44 PM   #5
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Factory start kit vs 5-2-1


It would show the same thing. The compressor always draws LRA to start. The hard start just greatly decreases the amount of time it draws LRA.
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Old 07-18-2013, 04:54 PM   #6
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Factory start kit vs 5-2-1


Quote:
Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
It would show the same thing. The compressor always draws LRA to start. The hard start just greatly decreases the amount of time it draws LRA.
Hmm, how does that time compare with the reaction time of a non-HACR breaker? The breaker issue is one of the reasons why I bought the 5-2-1.

Maximum breaker size per Goodman is 20A, while LRA = 48.


AFAIK, Cutler-Hammer/Eaton no longer makes BR style HACR breakers, and used HACR breakers cost more than new regular breakers. (plus I really don't want to install a used breaker)
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:00 PM   #7
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Factory start kit vs 5-2-1


The 5-2-1 won't negate the need for a HACR breaker.
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:24 PM   #8
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Factory start kit vs 5-2-1


I've got a Copeland Scroll, 1.5 ton, and piston metering on the indoor coil.

The fun part is I have 100A service, a well pump, and an electric dryer. Might get interesting if the well pump is running while I'm using the dryer and the compressor starts up. I could go years without that happening, but this will happen more often: Heat pump and dryer are both running, I flush a toilet and the well starts, or I run another load of washing and the well starts repeatedly.

My options as I see them, in order of increasing difficulty:

1. leave the circuit on the 15A BR215 breaker that's currently powering a mini-split. If it doesn't blow in the first day, switch in the BR220 and assume I'm good to go. (but it sounds like the probability of this working is low)

2. Get a used BRH220 HACR breaker off ebay. Found one for $18, but I really hate used breakers, especially when most BRs were made 30-40 years ago.

3. Put in a 40A or 50A breaker to power a sub panel next to the breaker box with a 20 HACR in it.

4. Put in a larger breaker, run heavier wire to the disconnect box, and switch to a fused disconnect box to provide 20A HACR protection to the heat pump.

Last edited by taxmantoo; 07-18-2013 at 05:34 PM.
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:32 PM   #9
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Factory start kit vs 5-2-1


What ever it takes to make it code compliant.
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:42 PM   #10
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Factory start kit vs 5-2-1


Is there a code issue with A/C on non-HACR breakers?
This amateur would think that circuit protection which acts faster would not be a code issue.

That $18 eBay breaker is looking better all the time. It's unknown vintage, but I'm already using a load center full of 35 year old breakers that have been working OK since the house was built.
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Old 07-18-2013, 05:44 PM   #11
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Factory start kit vs 5-2-1


Code requires it to be on an HACR breaker.
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Old 07-18-2013, 06:01 PM   #12
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Factory start kit vs 5-2-1


OK, I'll buy the HACR breaker.

Given my voltage at the load center, and the length of the wire run (x2) from the load center, I calculate about 215v at the unit at LRA.
Is that good enough, especially with a 5-2-1 on a system that doesn't require a start kit?
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:21 PM   #13
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Factory start kit vs 5-2-1


The compressor was design to work on 208/230, so yes its fine.
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Old 07-21-2013, 02:00 AM   #14
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Factory start kit vs 5-2-1


less heat on the start winding is it.

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