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Old 04-23-2011, 08:49 AM   #46
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Down draft issues - woodstove


I would tend to agree. If you box it in then you need a zero clearance chimney, need to check with the bldg code as to how to do it and the ins company. Do it wrong or not to code may void your house ins. Not sure why people want to burn wood. Mom had a woodstove in the basement and the HUGE increase in house insurance payments (they charge a lot more due to the increased risk of chimney fires) negated any fuel savings. With a 94% efficient Lennox Pulse furnace or any other over 90% efficient furnace it did not pay to burn wood. Good for cosmetic purposes but a sealed combustion direct vent gas stove or fireplace does the same job and is reasonably combustion efficient. Check with your ins agent to see if your premiums are higher and I hope you told them you have one. Omitting that and having a fire later may void your insurance.

I imagine if you burn a LOT of wood and don't mind doing a lot of stoking and cleaning etc etc and get free wood it may be worthwhile but for the occasional use I doubt it is. Too much hassle for me. They even have remote controls for high end fireplaces, my kind of livin.

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Last edited by yuri; 04-23-2011 at 08:57 AM.
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Old 04-23-2011, 01:06 PM   #47
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Down draft issues - woodstove


Not meaning to criticize the owners work, as it all looks neatly done, but I'm looking at the overall picture, comparing home value of finished product of a built in fire place verses what the owner has. Maybe just a outside masonary chimney, with a flue liner. I realize btu's from each log has to be considered. Been out of touch with labor prices so.........
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Old 04-25-2011, 09:45 AM   #48
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Down draft issues - woodstove


Quote:
Originally Posted by yuri
I would tend to agree. If you box it in then you need a zero clearance chimney, need to check with the bldg code as to how to do it and the ins company. Do it wrong or not to code may void your house ins. Not sure why people want to burn wood. Mom had a woodstove in the basement and the HUGE increase in house insurance payments (they charge a lot more due to the increased risk of chimney fires) negated any fuel savings. With a 94% efficient Lennox Pulse furnace or any other over 90% efficient furnace it did not pay to burn wood. Good for cosmetic purposes but a sealed combustion direct vent gas stove or fireplace does the same job and is reasonably combustion efficient. Check with your ins agent to see if your premiums are higher and I hope you told them you have one. Omitting that and having a fire later may void your insurance.

I imagine if you burn a LOT of wood and don't mind doing a lot of stoking and cleaning etc etc and get free wood it may be worthwhile but for the occasional use I doubt it is. Too much hassle for me. They even have remote controls for high end fireplaces, my kind of livin.
I've been toying with the idea of putting in a propane fireplace as I've already got a tank for a propane furnace in my garage. that will be down the road a few years though, for now I want this to work to get a lot of use out of it. I've got about 3/4s of an acre of standing timber on my property so wood come cheap. I've also got a friend who is an arborist and gives wood away as he can only take so much to his yard to sell.
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Old 04-25-2011, 09:50 AM   #49
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Down draft issues - woodstove


Quote:
Originally Posted by bernieb
Not meaning to criticize the owners work, as it all looks neatly done, but I'm looking at the overall picture, comparing home value of finished product of a built in fire place verses what the owner has. Maybe just a outside masonary chimney, with a flue liner. I realize btu's from each log has to be considered. Been out of touch with labor prices so.........
The fireplace came with the house when I bought it. I didn't put it in. Not sure what the costs would be in doing that but I'll ask when I get the pro in to have a look.
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Old 05-04-2011, 01:26 PM   #50
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Down draft issues - woodstove


Greetings again!!

Have not had a pro in yet but have been doing some investigating with family and friends who have wood stoves and experienced some draft issues.

Found a couple friends put this in

http://www.tjernlund.com/retail/auto-draft.htm

After doing so they had no more issues with the down draft.

Anyone have some knowledge on this type of unit they would like to share? Good or bad?

I like this option if it will work(Ill ask the pro) as its something I can do myself and looks very easy to do as well.
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Old 05-04-2011, 03:05 PM   #51
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Down draft issues - woodstove


That is what i had suggested in # 4 "a draft inducer"
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Old 05-04-2011, 03:29 PM   #52
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Down draft issues - woodstove


Quote:
Originally Posted by Artco
That is what i had suggested in # 4 "a draft inducer"
Yes you did! I didn't make the connection to a powered fan at the time I read your post?!?

Do you use one of these currently?
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Old 05-04-2011, 09:14 PM   #53
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No, i do not have any wood stoves.
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Old 05-06-2011, 12:11 PM   #54
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Down draft issues - woodstove


Our wood stove's pipe went through the wall like yours with two 90 bends. It never drafted well until I routed the pipe straight up through the ceiling and attic. That would be hard to do from the basement.

Does this stove have a catalytic gizmo in the pipe? If so, that might block off draft. 6" pipe may be a bit on the small size.

-Ed
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Old 05-06-2011, 04:05 PM   #55
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Down draft issues - woodstove


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed in SoDak
Our wood stove's pipe went through the wall like yours with two 90 bends. It never drafted well until I routed the pipe straight up through the ceiling and attic. That would be hard to do from the basement.

Does this stove have a catalytic gizmo in the pipe? If so, that might block off draft. 6" pipe may be a bit on the small size.

-Ed
I'm not sure? Where would I look to find this catalytic gizmo you speak of?
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Old 05-06-2011, 07:59 PM   #56
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Down draft issues - woodstove


It's been a few years, but we went shopping for a new stove and most of them had a catalytic thing directly on top of the stove itself at the pipe flange. Once heated enough, it would react with unburned gases from the stove and finish burning them.

It did not "kick in" until flue temps were high enough. In your case, it sounds like your stove never gets very hot, as it smokes too much to ever get close to operating temps.

Basically, the thing was a honeycombed ceramic disk or slab that sat right in the flue opening. You may be able to spot it or feel it from inside the firebox or you may have to remove the pipe to see it.

Not all stoves have it, but it looked to me like it blocked a lot of the flue opening. We burn our stove fairly low, so I doubted if this gadget would be any help at all to me.

With a stove that's operated mainly at low temps since you can't get it to burn correctly, this gizmo, if your stove has one, would likely be sooted up and maybe almost blocked.

Sometimes there's a "smoke shelf" in the top of the stove to keep flames from going directly up the pipe. This may obstruct the view up the pipe from inside, and it's possible the shelf is plugged or obstructed itself.

What is the function of the stove control marked "damper?" Does this control the air inlet or the smoke exit? It could be levered to operate in reverse of what may seem the logical place. I suppose you've tried it in both positions, or in the middle to start with, but it should show that it's working by increased air flow and burn rate or stoppage of same.

It might be interesting to get a check of the relative draft at the stove door, then slightly separate the pipe from the stove enough to check draft at the pipe to see if the pipe alone is drafting more than when connected to the stove.

Someone suggested removing the cap. There's designs of caps that help in odd draft situations. A screened cap may plug up easily and will restrict flow even when clean if the openings are too small.

I hope I haven't repeated things suggested earlier in the thread. If so, call it times two! Lack of good draft in a stove can be a real pain, I've dealt with it myself. I hope you get it sorted out!

-Ed

Last edited by Ed in SoDak; 05-06-2011 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 05-06-2011, 10:08 PM   #57
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Down draft issues - woodstove


I don't remember if I read all the posts or not so if what I suggest has been posted please just disregard. From what I am seeing your chimney pipe is larger than the pipe coming from your heater. This will cause a stove not to draw well unless there is a larger fire, a smaller fire just will not draw as there is not enough heat to make it draft well. One more thing is be sure to build a large fire when you fire it up for the day as that will burn the creosote out of your flue. If I am repeating information already posted please overlook me.
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Old 02-02-2012, 04:46 PM   #58
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Down draft issues - woodstove


So it's been awhile and I have good news.... Turns out I need to open a specific window to get the cooler air in to help push the hot air up.....

The window on the left(when looking at the pic of my rec room filled with smoke) drops cold air right into the front of the stove. The window on the right draws air out of the house?? Odd I know!!

Here's what I did... First I filled the bottom of the stove with balled up paper(20 pieces) then laid my kindling over top of the paper cris crossing them. Then I opened the window and lite the paper in several different spots. It began to draw instantly!!!

The only issue I've noticed since is when the furnace is on while I'm lighting the fire I get a very small amount of smoke being pulled into the room. But the fire still draws very quickly.

This was a head scratcher on my end.

Thanks for all your input!!!!!!!

Ahhhhh nice and toasty by the fire now a days lol

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