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Old 09-04-2012, 09:03 AM   #31
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Only if he's got the space.

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Old 09-04-2012, 11:17 AM   #32
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Doc this is starting to come clear now, I can see where things go and what needs to be done. For some reason I was trying to get the air handler under the house. The way you explained it makes all the sense in the world.

I wish I did have enough room in the attic to put the unit and I still may have. Our house has a 4 &12 pitch, 24 feet wide so taking off for the ridge I would have about 42 inches in the clear in the center of the house. Our house is a stick built not manufactured.

If I were to want to add AC at a later time with the air handler in the attic, would I just run lines to the handler then outside to the AC unit?

A question, the attic is very hot in the summer, like you didn't know that, would it be easier on the air handler, or more efficient, if it were in the closet instead of the attic if AC were added later?

I like the idea of the handler being in the closet so the return can be right in the hall. I need to find out the measurements of the unit. Now for the trunk line, how far should I run the trunk line? I will post another sketch of the floor plan with the distances from the air handler each supply will be and see if that will be any help.

Mike was right, you guys have the patience of Job to put up with a green horn like me, I appreciate it more than you know. I will be back a little later with the floor plan, got to go down to Georgia to buy groceries.
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Old 09-04-2012, 12:56 PM   #33
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forgive me if I missed something on this thread but, I recall on other posts that using flex/corrugated supply branch lines can reduce air flow something like 30%. Would it be better to run all rigid pipe especially if under house where there may be easier access to install. AND I do prefer your idea to install in closet especially seeing as it is a 1 storey and air circulation shouldn't be an issue. Just so long as there is room in the closet to access for service..if that is the case I would think it would be much easier for maintenance and servicing..but, you might have to put on some sort of addition to make up for the lost storage space..Don't forget to air condition it!!
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Old 09-04-2012, 12:58 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techpappy View Post
forgive me if I missed something on this thread but, I recall on other posts that using flex/corrugated supply branch lines can reduce air flow something like 30%. Would it be better to run all rigid pipe especially if under house where there may be easier access to install. AND I do prefer your idea to install in closet especially seeing as it is a 1 storey and air circulation shouldn't be an issue. Just so long as there is room in the closet to access for service..if that is the case I would think it would be much easier for maintenance and servicing..but, you might have to put on some sort of addition to make up for the lost storage space..Don't forget to air condition it!!
I know what you mean about adding on, mama isn't happy about giving up part of her closet as it is small to start with.
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Old 09-04-2012, 01:03 PM   #35
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Still haven't made it to the store yet.

Here is the floor plan, I put the feet from the air handler to the register under or beside each register. This may not be where the registers should go, it is just a guess.
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Old 09-04-2012, 01:16 PM   #36
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Doc this is starting to come clear now, I can see where things go and what needs to be done. For some reason I was trying to get the air handler under the house. The way you explained it makes all the sense in the world.

I wish I did have enough room in the attic to put the unit and I still may have. Our house has a 4 &12 pitch, 24 feet wide so taking off for the ridge I would have about 42 inches in the clear in the center of the house. Our house is a stick built not manufactured.

Is stick built anything like a manufactured?

If I were to want to add AC at a later time with the air handler in the attic, would I just run lines to the handler then outside to the AC unit?

Yup, the copper refrigerant lines with 18-2 control wire attached. All control circuitry is in the air handler. Remember, the bigger line, the suction line, will need to be insulated as well. If you decide to go with a downflow closet unit where the plenum and all duct work is under the home, the refrigerant line set will also simply go under the home.

A question, the attic is very hot in the summer, like you didn't know that, would it be easier on the air handler, or more efficient, if it were in the closet instead of the attic if AC were added later?

No difference. The air handler and all duct work is insulated and should be completely sealed, keeping any ambient air separated from the internal conditioned air.

I like the idea of the handler being in the closet so the return can be right in the hall. I need to find out the measurements of the unit. Now for the trunk line, how far should I run the trunk line? I will post another sketch of the floor plan with the distances from the air handler each supply will be and see if that will be any help.

The air handler might need to be one for a manufactured home if a stick home resembles a manufactured home. This would mean you could not use that Rheem. Intertherm or Stylequest brands.

This relates to velocity and what I was asking BT about. As the air moves further down the trunk line it loses velocity or pressure which means it needs to step down in size along the way so that any duct take offs located further away from the unit and further down the trunk line still has good air flow. Beenthere would know off hand, I'd have to do research but can find out for you. Now on a regular plenum (3' deep) instead of a longer trunk line you'd simply add the one size duct to each grill and it's done, directly from the plenum.

Mike was right, you guys have the patience of Job to put up with a green horn like me, I appreciate it more than you know. I will be back a little later with the floor plan, got to go down to Georgia to buy groceries.
I drove from Houston to Georgia in one night once, to go fishing. I kept binding my reel up. No Bass!
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Old 09-04-2012, 01:19 PM   #37
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Try to put supply registers as close to under center of windows as possible. Will help dissipate cold/hot effects off the windows...more comfortable....Also see if you can fit kitchen supply under sink or nearby cupboard and then direct air out front of cupboard..I know! I know!! losing a little more cupboard space!! But, I think Mama might prefer than to have to clean a register in the middle of the floor not to mention the TRIPPING HAZZARD! Just tryin' to keep you out of trouble!
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:06 PM   #38
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I drove from Houston to Georgia in one night once, to go fishing. I kept binding my reel up. No Bass!
Doc, a stick built is just a regular house, it isn't like a prefab.

I like the down flow method, that should work in our house. I don't know what a plenum is but I will do a search and find out, I think it is a box like deal that all the ducts hook onto. I have a direction to go now, before I buy the ducts and things I will make a post with the list and see if this is what I need.

Man, you wanted to fish pretty bad to drive straight through like that. I use to Bass fish but got tired of it. There was a 20 acre lake just outside Memphis that was just loaded with large Bass, after a while it just wasn't fun catching them any more. My wife and I have done a lot of catfishing for the big ones here on the Tennessee River, it isn't hard to catch 50 pounders on up to over a 100 pounds. It is just too hard to hang on to a big fish like that now days, so we just fish for eaters.

I really do appreciate all the help you, Beenthere, and all you fellows have given me, you guys are tops.
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Old 09-04-2012, 06:50 PM   #39
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Old 09-04-2012, 08:44 PM   #40
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The 21' run to the kitchen, you would want it on the other outside wall of the living room.

If using flex duct, you should use a flex duct duculator, as it doesn't flow as much air as hard pipe does.

When an air handler or furnace is in a closet, and the return is draw through the closet wall. You tend to hear the return, and the blower noise.

The supplies will have less heat loss if they are in the crawlspace under the house, then they will in the attic.
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Old 09-04-2012, 08:46 PM   #41
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Oh Doc. Once the dampers on a trunk line system are adjusted, you generally don't need to go an redjust them. So its generally not a problem to balance the system on a trunk line system. it is of course a bit more expensive and time consuming to put in.
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:07 PM   #42
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Oh Doc. Once the dampers on a trunk line system are adjusted, you generally don't need to go an redjust them. So its generally not a problem to balance the system on a trunk line system. it is of course a bit more expensive and time consuming to put in.
That's not what I meant, BT. I had it in my head that the system (trunk) was going to be running in between floors, like the trunk would be built and then covered in by a chase.

I don't know why I was thinking that.
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:11 PM   #43
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I don't know why I was thinking that.
We all wonder off in the wrong direction from time to time.
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:42 PM   #44
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Beenthere, I still haven't totally made up my mind on the idea of flex duct after watching a few videos of hard pipe installs. I guess I will wait and see how things materialize.

The air handler I am looking at is 22" wide and a little over 4 foot long, I think I have enough room under the house to mount it under there. Like I told Mike, in my mind I have put that air handler everywhere in the house but as of now I am going to try to see if it will fit under the house. I really liked the idea of in the closet but our closets are so small and that would sure take up a lot of room.

Actually the 21' run is to the laundry room, the way I have it drawn is confusing after I looked at it. Do I need two registers in the living room?

Mike, you were right buddy, thanks.
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Old 09-05-2012, 06:28 AM   #45
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For good air mixing in that room you do. Other wise you would have a temp gradient in it.

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