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Old 12-06-2011, 12:22 PM   #31
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did I buy the wrong furnace?


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so you're saying that a 2 stage tstat would be useless with an XV80?

tnx,
No, actually, the 2 stage thermostat would be better, due to it would decide upon room temp, when to change stages.

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Old 12-06-2011, 12:44 PM   #32
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did I buy the wrong furnace?


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so you're saying that a 2 stage tstat would be useless with an XV80?

tnx,
You can use the t-stat but if w1 is jumped to w2 on the board then the board will make 2nd stage come on.
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Old 12-06-2011, 12:45 PM   #33
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Must the time it runs in low fire about 12 to 14 mins then will kick in to high speed if need to
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Old 12-06-2011, 04:36 PM   #34
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The honeywell IAQ, decides when first stage is meeting 90% of the heat loss rate by tracking previous run times, and how often it had to cycle to second stage on other heat calls.
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Old 12-06-2011, 04:46 PM   #35
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that is the concept behind the lennox mod. wonder if they "borrowed" it from the other guys.

I guess there is no copyright on the word algorithm or the principle.

What amazes me ( no offense to anyone ), is how thin can you slice a carrot or split a hair? These rambling discussions on how sensitive a furnace can be made to feel or run are beyond what most people can feel for comfort IMO. I have 3 stage lennox units running in homes vs the same furnace setup as a mod and have not had a single customer tell the difference. reason we go 3 stage is sometimes it is impossible to get a extra wire to the tstat to make it a mod vs 3 stage w/o opening ceilings etc. I doubt our OP could tell the difference. just get a 2 stage tstat and let er fly.
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Old 12-06-2011, 05:25 PM   #36
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Got to throw a wrench in the works... Original complaint was the furnace runs too long. A two stage thermostat isn't going to make the run times less,could run for hours and hours on first stage.
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Old 12-06-2011, 05:43 PM   #37
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Too many unknown facts/variables:

1) did mr contractor do a heat loss calc, is unit undersized?

2) did mr c set the manifold gas pressures, could be underfired

3) did he set it up for 2 stage timed ON operation and verify it actually works

all these need to be checked by a Pro to know why it "may" be running too long. I find that lots of people who are used to the old 150 degF supply air temp of the old inefficienct furnaces think their furnace has a problem when it is only supplying 130-35 supply temp (which is the new norm). house maintains its temp but it is just a different FEEL and way to heat it, just like with a heat pump. I could never get used to one of those supplying a lower temp buts lots of people don't mind them.
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Old 12-06-2011, 06:55 PM   #38
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Got to throw a wrench in the works... Original complaint was the furnace runs too long. A two stage thermostat isn't going to make the run times less,could run for hours and hours on first stage.
Setting an IAQ or TH8320 first stage to 4 or 5 CPH and the second stage to 2 CPH, will keep it from running too long in first stage.
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Old 12-06-2011, 07:03 PM   #39
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Yuri, you left out the big kicker. Does the structure leak so much air, that the system has to cycle more to keep up with the drop of temp. I went from a cycle every 15 min's, to a 60 min. cycle, by just going around and sealing a bunch of air leaks, especially at the windows.
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Old 12-06-2011, 08:47 PM   #40
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Yuri, you left out the big kicker. Does the structure leak so much air, that the system has to cycle more to keep up with the drop of temp. I went from a cycle every 15 min's, to a 60 min. cycle, by just going around and sealing a bunch of air leaks, especially at the windows.

the house has all new "Simonton" windows, R50 of insulation has been blown into the attic and for good measure the house has recently been "stuccoed" which some say is good insulation. (3/4 inch of cement added to your siding can't hurt,right? )

anyway, I just got a Honeywell 7600 at HD (Lowe's only had Hunter for 2 stage and I didn't want that, they were out of 7600) and 25' of 7 conductor cable. just bored a new hole for the wire too. it was kind of touchy with all the ductwork near the furnace (my "assistant" thought I'd bore a hole through a duct )
my question is about the conection of the tstat to the furnace: what is the connection shown on the Trane furnace diagram called "b/c"? they say in a note that it's used for thermostats requiring 24v and in parentheses it says "common". so what is that? does the 7600 require 24v?

tnx,
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Old 12-06-2011, 09:46 PM   #41
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Regardless of how much insulation, what kind of windows you have, same with the outside covering, it can be leaking air, as if you have left the doors and windows open. Only way to find out if your system is going to keep up, is to have a Flir done on the house to look for leaks, blower door test, and then once that all is said and done, compare to what the hvac installer put in, and how it will perform with the results, if there is any problems found.

Only way that you can tell how your system is performing, and then compare to results, is to use software that will allow you to track run times, etc. There is third party software out there for the Radio Thermostat of America thermostats, and there is also ones like the ecobee, and Prophlix also. Otherwise, you have to use microdata recorders to see how it is performing, then compare before and after.

Going back to what I state before, I can see results from how my system performed before I went around and sealed air leaks, and how it performs after. Only tonight, due to it has fallen below 40 (35 all eve and day), that I decided to bump it up from 68 to 69. We have started to run a humidifier in the basement and along with the one upstairs, to help raise the humidity in both areas. That along with the one degree bump is enough to also know that still my house is more comfortable than last Winter.

And this is with a house with no insulation in the walls, but only 6 inches up in the attic space. Yes, the radiating cold from the walls can be uncomfortable, but overall, you do not feel the cold air movement/breeze like it was before
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Old 12-06-2011, 10:36 PM   #42
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ok,ok,i'm going to try my new 2 stage "Honeywell"! but I still need to know about that b/c connection.

tnx,
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Old 12-06-2011, 10:43 PM   #43
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Common (b/c) is if you are not using batteries to power the stat, the digital display. If so (not using batteries in the stat) then you bring the common from the furnace/air handler to the b/c terminal on the stat.
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Old 12-07-2011, 05:35 AM   #44
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you need to install the batteries as they are for backup in a power failure. hookup the C so it runs off the 24 volt power and makes the batteries last a lot longer. once done come back and I/we will tell you how to test low/high fire and the firing rate using the gas meter. try find the install manual online and post a link here so we can see how trane wants it setup. or scan yours and put it into a pdf file and link it here or PM me.
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Old 12-07-2011, 09:01 AM   #45
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Got to throw a wrench in the works... Original complaint was the furnace runs too long. A two stage thermostat isn't going to make the run times less,could run for hours and hours on first stage.
yea, I don't understand where this discussion is going at all, no one is listening to each others responses, sounds like me and my wife talking

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