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Old 12-03-2009, 09:28 PM   #16
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Dayton 3E837 unit heater manual


I also have the manual in .pdf if interested. It is for the 3E837, without any suffix. Just let me know.

TJ

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Old 12-04-2009, 09:30 AM   #17
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Dayton 3E837 unit heater manual


TJ if you could send that file to jim_brune at hotmail dot com I would really appreciate it. Tryingto get a similar heater going and having a time finding a manual.
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Old 12-04-2009, 10:15 AM   #18
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Jim- file has been sent.
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Old 01-14-2010, 11:08 AM   #19
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Dayton 3E837 unit heater manual


TJ, I would very much appreciate a copy of the manual file. I too am trying to get one going. email: "peytonbay at sbcglobal dot net".

peyton
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Old 01-14-2010, 11:41 AM   #20
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Dayton 3E837 unit heater manual


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Originally Posted by peyton View Post
TJ, I would very much appreciate a copy of the manual file. I too am trying to get one going. email: "peytonbay at sbcglobal dot net".

peyton
Email has been sent.
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Old 01-19-2010, 10:47 PM   #21
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Dayton 3E837 unit heater manual


I just aquired the 3e837 and was wondering is you could send me a copy of the manual also. 86scottchevy at comcast dot net. i have no idea if it works and will be putting it up this spring. If it doesn't work I am more that willing to part it out.
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Old 01-20-2010, 03:40 PM   #22
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Dayton 3E837 unit heater manual


E-Mail has been sent.
Just an FYI.... this is a real old unit, and parts are really not available any longer.
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Old 03-03-2010, 07:55 AM   #23
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Dayton 3E837 unit heater manual


TJ_in_IL, I sure could use that .pdf file of the Maual for the Dayton 3E837 unit heater. You can email that to ajr423@gmail.com
That would be so helpful. Thank you in advance.
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Old 03-03-2010, 10:14 AM   #24
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Dayton 3E837 unit heater manual


Is there a sufix to your model (A, B, C, etc)?
Information could be different between the different revisions.
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Old 12-27-2010, 06:23 PM   #25
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Dayton 3E837 unit heater manual


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Originally Posted by TJ_in_IL View Post
I also have the manual in .pdf if interested. It is for the 3E837, without any suffix. Just let me know.

TJ
TJ can you please send the manual to mitchell8565@sbcglobal.net
Thanks.
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Old 12-28-2010, 08:15 AM   #26
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@ Broken Stuff-
Email Sent.
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Old 01-01-2011, 11:21 AM   #27
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Dayton 3E837 unit heater manual


i would like get copy of manual. tsstack@sbcglobal.net thanks
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Old 01-01-2011, 11:45 AM   #28
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i would like get copy of manual. tsstack@sbcglobal.net thanks
email sent
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Old 02-05-2011, 03:50 PM   #29
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Dayton 3E837 unit heater manual


TJ,

Can you send me a copy of the manual?

mswinton1@comast.net

Thanks

Michael
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:39 PM   #30
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Dayton 3E837 unit heater manual


Hi all,

My mom has a furnace which uses this therm-o-disc 29T12 to control the fan.

The failure is the wires soldered to a ceramic resistive-heater disk. The purpose of the heated disk is to keep the fan switch hot enough to stay on during the heating cycle. What happens is one or both wires pop free of the disk, result being the fan cycles on-off every few seconds.

The switch is repairable if you are handy with a soldering iron. Bend up the tabs on the rear of the switch and open it up. The tabs are brittle, so be careful and don't stab your finger! Careful wedging with a sharp screwdriver or short, stout awl on your multitool will get a bite under the tab and let you gently pry it up. Then use a good needlenose to bend the tab 90 so it clears.

Be careful to open the switch slowly as there are several loose parts that you need to note their orientation for correct reassembly. The curve of the click-disk points inward in case you forget! But it's a very simple design and easy to understand if you know a bit about electricity.

All you really need do is resolder the stiff, short wires to the ceramic heater disk. Only problem is, the wires are stiff and short, so working distance is small. The ceramic conducts the heat of soldering away from the joint, so it's very difficult to make a good connection. It usually works awhile, perhaps even a whole season, but inevitably it fails again for the same reason.

On my most recent attempt just an hour ago, I used a short jumper of thin copper tape that I got from Radio Shack, which is used to repair circuit board traces. That let me solder the jumper to the disk out in the open where I could get it good and hot (and not burn my fingers holding it!), then I soldered the other end of the jumper to the stiff wire. The copper tape is thin and self-adhesive, so I folded it over on itself to make the jumper. There is no room inside the switch for anything much more substantial than this.

Anyway, it seemed to hold well this time and is flexible enough that maybe it won't vibrate off or be cold-soldered as easily as the original wire connection.

The function of the switch can be checked with a continuity meter. I read about 170 Ohms or a little less on the heater disk (the two smaller terminals). The fan switch (two wide terminals) is normally open. Hold a lighter against the sensor and it will soon click, closing the fan terminals till it cools off.

Even if the assembly tabs break, the switch can still be re-used. After a few fixes, all the tabs on mine were broken off. I tied it back together through the mounting holes with some short bread ties. When you reinstall it, the mounting screws hold it together well enough to work.

Maybe that new conductive silver epoxy would work better than my method, or maybe the copper ribbon finally got it this time!

Even if you can actually buy this switch, it's still about $60, so a bit of time and solder is worth a try!

-Ed

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