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-   -   Day & Night furnace wiring diagram (http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/day-night-furnace-wiring-diagram-96619/)

Paul Dahlin 02-26-2011 12:55 PM

Day & Night furnace wiring diagram
 
Would anyone have the wiring diagram for a Day & Night furnace model # 395cav048090. I particularly need the wiring diagram for the control board, which is a CES0110057-02.
Thanks,
Paul

yuri 02-26-2011 01:01 PM

Why do you need it or what do you want to know. I am quite familiar with the similar Carrier units and that board. What is the furnace serial # and age. Diagram should be on the back of the lower door.

Paul Dahlin 02-26-2011 01:12 PM

Day & Night wiring
 
Yuri,
Thanks for your quick reply! Water seeped in and shorted the old board and a new board was installed. I entered the picture at this point. Before proceeding I want to make sure that the wiring to the board has been done correctly.The edge connector of course is okay. I'm concerned about the wiring to PR-1 and PR-2, SEC 1 and SEC 2, EAC1 & 2 and the LO and HI wiring colors.

Paul Dahlin 02-26-2011 01:16 PM

DAY & Night follow up info
 
Yuri,
Sorry, the other info you asked for is;
Model # 395cav048090
Series C
Serial # 0993A13658

And the board #CES0110057-02

I think the unit was installed in 1993

Any info will be helpful!
All the best,
Paul

yuri 02-26-2011 01:22 PM

Look at p 20. It is the best diag I could find and is for a high eff unit. Pri is the high voltage side of the transformer and Sec is the low voltage side. Should have labels on the new board. Where did you get it and who installed it. Red is Sec 1 and Blue or Yellow is usually sec 2 as it is a very common industry standard for the common side of the transformer. Black is Pri 1 and live and white is Pri 2 and neutral. Fan low speed is always Red and Black is cooling speed and usually Yellow or Brown or Blue is heating speed. Save the file and open it and then you can rotate the pic.
http://www.docs.hvacpartners.com/idc...58mxa-10si.pdf

Paul Dahlin 02-26-2011 01:34 PM

Day & Night wiring
 
Yuri!
This is excellent! Thank you so much! The board was purchased at a Carrier supply store here in Los Angeles. The old board had been removed and a HVAC contractor friend of mine picked up the new board according to Model and serial # etc. The two boards look compatible. I've installed the new board but I haven't hooked it up since I wasn't sure of the wiring. Your info will be very helpful.
Unfortunately the unit is about 50 miles away. I'll study the info you sent and drive out tomorrow and see if I can get it working. The unit had been working fine up until the water leak which shorted the edge connector. I've picked up a new edge connector as well.
I don't expect to get it working on my first try, so you are likely to hear from me again tomorrow if that's okay with you.

Thanks again,
Paul

yuri 02-26-2011 01:40 PM

That diagram, (I would print it) should be very close to your unit as Carrier (owns them) doesn't change their diagrams too often and I have worked on hundreds of them. Take some 3 amp GM type purple spade fuses with you. Should not damage the board if you mix any of the trans wiring but it may give an error code like "wrong polarity". I am 99.9 % sure I got it right for you as I changed lots of them.

Good Luck

Paul Dahlin 02-28-2011 06:53 PM

DAY & Night check and questions
 
Dear Yuri,
I had a chance to check the furnace unit today. Here's what I encountered.
First, your wiring info was very helpful and corresponded with the diagram.
1 I overrode the door switch
2 I jumped the R and W terminals with the house thermostat disconnected
3 The blower motor started
4 The LED light blinked rapid shorts
5 After several minutes the blower stopped without any other events occurring

I then checked voltage at the following;
1. Line 1 and 2 and it was 122 v ac
2. PR 1 and 2 and it was 122 v ac
3. SEC 1 & 2 and it was 27 v ac
4. High limit switch, pressure switch, flame roll out switch, etc. app. 27v

I then checked continuity across all switches, all were closed except the Pressure switch.
I used a jumper to start the inducer motor and the pressure switch closed

I then measured voltage at the inducer motor, it was 122v ac and at the ignitor which was also 122v

I then jumped the neutral side of the inducer motor to ground and it started.

I then checked the ground screw and tightened it.

I disconnected the gas line and checked for pressure. I made sure the gas valves were on.

It appears that all of the switches are functioning correctly. There also seems to be the correct voltage to the blower, inducer and ignitor. The blower runs but nothing else does.

I then removed the control board and checked for burns or breaks. As you remember it is a new board and seems compatible with the old board. A white wire powers the inducer and the ignitor and a black wire completes the circuit back to the control board, there is continuity back to the board at the edge connector.
It seems that all switches and motors are working but that a complete circuit is not being made. Could this be in the control board, am I missing something or could the board itself be defective?

Any insights would be much appreciated!

All the best,
Paul

yuri 02-28-2011 07:47 PM

White wires are ALWAYS Neutral and Black is ALWAYS the hot. You got the polarity mixed up if you try run it that way. The board is polarity sensitive and does a self check B4 starting the burner.

Not sure what you are doing if you "jumped the neutral side of the inducer to ground" and it started. I think you need to retrace all the wiring. Not sure if you have the right board either as there a 2 versions of the CESO boards. You may have now damaged the new board also and IMO it is unsafe to use.

I think you should call a Carrier tech as it sounds unsafe to me what you are doing and when I feel uncomfortable with a poster I don't go any further. Safety comes first NOT saving $$.

Paul Dahlin 03-03-2011 09:08 PM

Day & Night wiring
 
Yuri,
You bailed on me too quickly! It was the polarity! The outlet the unit was plugged into was not wired correctly. I went out the next day, checked it for polarity, found it was reversed, corrected it and the unit started up without any problems.
A problem with internet sites is a certain form of rudeness. Your post was guilty of that, but nevertheless, you gave me the answer! And though insulted, you gave me just the info I needed.
I want to thank you for that! Your were a big help!

All the best,
Paul


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