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Old 02-13-2013, 10:09 AM   #31
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I'd probably buy some of that sound attenuating stuff and line complaining customers' closets with it to show them it works, then tell them where to buy it. It could save you some work and the furnaces would work better because they could keep the blowers on high.


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Old 02-15-2013, 11:03 AM   #32
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Not to sure if this is too late or for people looking for an alternative but we are a hvac and insulation company and find by installing insulation under a noisy unit it can help quieten the sound of the unit running in the attic, we have also installed sound deadened material for hallway closets with the furnace in. hope this helps! all the best
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Old 02-16-2013, 05:30 PM   #33
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kirwinjd...What I see here is a contractor who actually cares about the customer and is trying to make her happy. Your perseverence in making it right will come back to you many times in the good reference you will get for the effort you are making. So many contractors just set it and forget it, and say "they all do that" or "not my fault". You are doing the right thing and I applaud your efforts.
Do you want it your way or the right way?
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:45 AM   #34
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I am not a tin banger but, I have seen commercial installations where they use some type of baffles in the main ducts to help deaden the sound. Maybe your duct supplier has these available for domestic purposes. If the duct is accessible you could install an s turn in the supply which should help. Anyone out there who can elaborate on this?
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Old 02-19-2013, 10:00 AM   #35
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Where is it escaping

Where does the noise espcape from the furnace? You say it is the inshot burner or basically venturi noise. How is it transmitted into the living area. Does it travel through the ductwork and escape via the registers? Or is it escaping from the mechanical closet through the wall or doors. Are you sure it is the inshot burners. I can't imagine hearing the burners over the blower motor. But then I have not installed an 80 percenter this century. I only question this because my mom and dad's house has a mid 40's era Atlas furnace that is literally the size of a Subaru wagon. And as much as I have tried to get him to let me change it out for a good condensing, 95 or 6 percenter he will not let me do it because of the blower noise pretty much all modern furnaces make due to the increased blower speed used to offset the smaller dimension of the blower itself. When his furnace is on you cannot hear it running. I tried to convince him with PROPER duct sizes matched to the install and the equipment the noise is negligable. Won't have it.
I have electronic ignition, plugged 25%+ of the manifold orifices and dialed down the combustion to scale back on the fuel going up the flue. All I can do.
That aside, sheet rock is one of the best sound deadening materials you can buy. There is a product out I believe called Green Glue? that is an adhesive specifically designed to laminate drywall and isolate the laminations, or decouple would be a better term. It is made for sound deadening aplications and is in the products in that category. For doors go solid core with weather stripping. An airtight seal eliminates a path for sound to travel. Also furnace must set on non combustable base, so get some 1/4 or 3/8 inch rubber pads and construct a platform to slip under the unit. Pad against the floor will decouple, cover that with a plate or sheetmetal will make it non conmbustable. There is a sound deadening product out that is the type used in automobiles more or less. It is very dense and designed to stop noise transmission. Parts would guide you in the right direction I think. I learned my sound transmission chops designing and building home recording studios and the transmission of sound is nothing more than mechanical transfer of energy. Break the path the energy is coupling to and you stop or inhibit the transmitted energy.
Lastly, duct silencers are basically just like a firearm silencer. Outer metal, rock wool or packed glass layer, inner perforated layer. The size of the absorber, thickness of the inner layer, and the number of holes, hole spacing and their diameter determines the frequency and coefficient of absorption of the offending noise. Easily made but toss up compared to commercial when factoring in the engineering to accomplish a certain result. But unless the sound is emitting from the registers, silencers won't help. Oh,, need to be iinstalled as far from registers as possible. Where does combustion air originate from. If inside, seal the closet and pull it from crawlspace or attic.


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