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Old 05-03-2011, 05:57 PM   #16
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Yes you can. In some areas you have to also buy the tank, others you just pay the deposit on it. But you will still need to buy the 160 to 200 dollar regulator.

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Old 05-03-2011, 06:00 PM   #17
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The good dye is expensive, and using the HI black light is an additional charge. A good company, isn't gonna be cheap.
what is a service charge just to drive out or to do what and what does a 15 point season check up do i got 1 year guy came out hooked up and checked freon and left
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Old 05-03-2011, 06:01 PM   #18
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And a 200 dollar set of refrigeration gauges and hoses to get it in the system. If you are not careful the nitrogen can overpressure the hoses and blow up in your face. A 1500-2000 psi nitrogen tank is not to be fooled around with.
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Old 05-03-2011, 06:04 PM   #19
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what is a service charge just to drive out or to do what and what does a 15 point season check up do i got 1 year guy came out hooked up and checked freon and left
A service charge includes just about nothing. It doesn't cover doing any work. Specially not leak checking.

Different companies put different things in their system check, but lots of techs don't do 80% of what is on the list. Some because they are lazy, others because the company doesn't charge enough, and has them scheduled to do 6 or 8 PM checks a day.
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Old 05-03-2011, 06:05 PM   #20
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The 15 point checkup is like that on a car. They check the BASIC points, freon level coil cleanliness etc etc for under $200 and is usually done by a junior tech who is not totally experienced or reached Journeyman status. Just like you don't get a Journeyman mechanic doing oil changes on a car. We train them to call us if they spot something wrong or out of the ordinary. The el cheapo companies like Beenthere said don't do much or pay enough in wages to attract any skilled techs.
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Last edited by yuri; 05-03-2011 at 06:07 PM.
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Old 05-03-2011, 06:26 PM   #21
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Yes you can. In some areas you have to also buy the tank, others you just pay the deposit on it. But you will still need to buy the 160 to 200 dollar regulator.
lets see 200 -for guages 200 -for regulator ? for nitro then ? black light thats a lot to find a leak if i new that heat and air was so much to keep up might have thoughrt of another way to go. a tech gonna cost that much to find then xtra to fix?
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Old 05-03-2011, 06:38 PM   #22
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A leak check using dye can cost a 150 to 500, depending on the company.
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Old 05-03-2011, 09:46 PM   #23
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How old is this condenser?
Write down the model and serial number and contact the manufacture to check if the condenser is still in warranty.
Send them the picture of the coil and explain to them what you feel may be the problem.
If it is in warranty ask them who they recommend for you to contact to have check the coil and will there be any charges to do this.
If it is in warranty and you have someone off the street who does not represent the manufacture mess with it they may void any warranty you may have.
Did you have this condenser installed?
From what i saw in the picture it looks relatively new.
Who determined the leak was in the coil?
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Old 05-04-2011, 10:31 AM   #24
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It's not something you can do yourself. Even if you find the leak do you have oxy acetylene to repair it? Call someone out they will leak check the entire system and determine where the leak is. If it's out of gas it's a decent size leak and if your pressurize high enough, 300lbs you will hear or be able to spray around to find it. You don't wanna mess around with nitrogen can be very dangerous the bottle is under some pretty high pressure if regulator is not used properly.

A coil might have a year warranty on the part but highly doubt labor is included so you would hav e to pay someone to repair it anyway.
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Old 05-04-2011, 11:27 AM   #25
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At this point i don't think anyone really knows where the leak is.
I think an assumption has been made because of the way the coil looks (in the pic)
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Old 05-04-2011, 12:20 PM   #26
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The first question to ask - is the unit working properly? If the system is doing what it is designed to do and your A/C is producing cooled air - don't worry about it. Do a simple temp check. After letting the system run for a while check the decharge air temp a one of the supply registers located about mid stream from where the return grille is located. It should be somewhere in the mid to high 40's or low 50's. Now check the return temp at the return grille. It should be about 18 to 20 degrees higher than the supply. If it's within this range - enjoy! Make sure that you keep the filter changed on a regular bases - depending on where you live and the amount of dust/dirt you may encounter. Also, if you have pets - foresure! A dirty filter can cause the system to work below it's spected SEER rating and if not caught in time cause compressor failure. Hope this will ease your mind!
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