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Old 06-13-2008, 11:14 AM   #1
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Condensation


I live in the southeast and have just bought a home which needed a new HVAC unit and duck work before we moved in (last month). So all my observations are going to be new with no comparison to the old... Note: The house fifty years old and is in great condition and well cared for and maintained. The unit is an uninsulated the crawl space with about 4-5 ft of room from ground with a vapor barrier on the dirt floor.
My problem starts with moisture build up on the outside of the coil cabinet, where it attaches to the plenum. I had to re-tape once already do to the moisture but I am afraid the tape may not hold. The plenum is insulated well and there is no moisture there, just at the tape seem where they connect together. What do I do here? Do I need different tape? Should I use more insulation? What kind? The aluminum bubble wrap looks easy to work with. I may have more details for anyone who is offering there knowledge. Please ask if needed.

Thanks
Brad

Oh and the unit seem to be cooling well at about 74 F. But it just runs ALL day to keep it there.

Last edited by Brad100; 06-13-2008 at 11:16 AM. Reason: Grammar, Confusing
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Old 06-13-2008, 05:53 PM   #2
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Condensation


sounds to me like the system is under charged or under sized the system should be designed to maintain at least 70 degrees at max load which in your area is around 105-110 outdoor ambiant if is under sized your scewed there if it is under charged or leaking contact the installer asap before any labor warrentte goes away which is most likely the case .
in a cool crawl space a well operating system will only condense at the coil cabenit if the dew point is very high in which case it would be a ventalation issue of the crawl space and should be adressed
as far as the connection the plenum and the cabenit should be scewed together with foam weather striping between them if there is none and they are screwed use silicone to seal cracks
i strongly beleive the system is low on refrigerent
lic. in ct
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Old 06-13-2008, 07:13 PM   #3
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Condensation


Thanks for the reply. I had them come out the other day and tech said he thinks that if the house was better insulated it would run less and not produce the extra condensation. I don't know if he just making excuses or not. He said the system was factory charged and that it need to be tuned. He set up the gauges and read temps. Then proceeded to let out some freon. Overcharged? He said if the stystem wasn't matched right that the returned air would not be as cold as it could be. It was not as hot outside today so I'll have watch it a little. But your saying I shouldn't be getting water on the outside of the unit. The water seems like its just enough to show droplets like an iced drink. What should I tell them so they come out again. Is insulating the coil chamber not an option? Could the condensation be from a bad plenum connection to the coil?
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Old 06-14-2008, 05:07 PM   #4
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Condensation


if your system is new why isnt it matched 2nd releasing refrigerant into the air is illegal unless it a de-minus loss (whats left in your hoses)and not saying you should but the epa has a standing reward of 10000.00 for turning scumbags like that in . If your system is split in other words you have a out door unit and an indoor unit the condensors come charged to accomodate a matching indoor coil and 15 feet of lineset the piping that connects the 2 units you need this info and more to know if he was full of it ask if the system has a piston or a txv and what the superheat and subcool of the system are the outdoor abiant temp and the indoor wet bulb temp when you ask the super heat and subcool he has to have his gauges on the system and a clamp on themometer on each of the pipes if he wasnt measuring the temp of the pipe there is no way he could know the super heat and subcool of the system and not knowing that means he was guessing if the charge was right
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Old 06-15-2008, 09:38 AM   #5
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Condensation


The guy that came out did "match the system" he used those words too. He measured the temp with a clamp on the copper pipe. I think it was reading about 64 or something maybe even less like 45 degrees. I believe He was trying to raise the temp to about 74 or so? I think he said he was trying to get it 20 degrees less than outside air temp (94 degrees). I could be very wrong here. He was also reading the gauges he had as well, not sure what the numbers read on them, but they looked like there were reading somewhere between 8 and 9 o'clock both red and blue were about the same. He claims that the system would be doing well if cooling 20 present. I guess if 100 outside than 80 inside and so forth. Note: When they first came out they matched the home with a 2.5 ton system and I thought that might be to little knowing the insulation is a little less desirable (getting more soon). Anyway they did install the 3 ton and sure glad they did. I still think it should be able to keep up.

If its 100 outside and I want it to be 72 inside can that happen?

Now, how about with this sanario...
50 year old, 1550 sqft brick veneer ranch with about R-19 or so in attic (mixed with original blown and and R-13 on top), original black insulating sheets on exterior walls and currently nothing in the crawl space.

And about the condensation. It seems like it has been reduced, BUT it has been a little cooler out too. The condensation seems to just be on the tape that connects the plenum to the indoor coil. Will the tape hold if it gets too wet?

Could I but some insulating wrap just around the tape? Or would that make the condensation move further down the line?

Thanks for all the answers.
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Old 06-15-2008, 07:31 PM   #6
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Condensation


it should be able to achieve 70 and remove the tape and caulk or silicone the crack sounds like a ok tech you want a 20 degree drop from the return to the supply try to do thing to decrease the solor load on the house like keeping the blinds drawn or putting uv laminant on them
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