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Old 10-08-2009, 08:33 AM   #1
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Comfortmaker


I own a 5 year old Comfortmaker furnace, model # N9MP2100J20B1. I just tried starting the furnace for the first time this year and have encountered a problem. The inducer motor starts and then the glow plug/ignitor comes on and after ten to fifteen seconds the glow plug goes out without starting the burners. This sequence repeats itself two more times until the furnace goes out and flashes a code (6 + 1) indicating a "soft lockout". If I turn off power to reset the furnace this sequence repeats itself again. I have checked all limits on the furnace and they have 24v power coming in and going out, I have checked the pressure switch and have 24v power in and out. I have detached the condensate drain line to make sure that it was not clogged. I do have 120V coming in to the gas valve. I'm leaning towards the Honeywell smart valve but, before spending the money to replace it I thought I would get a second opinion. Any thoughts?
P.S. I was successful on starting it last night for for a one time run, not sure what I did. After it ran I shut it down and tried a re-start and encountered the same problem as mentioned above.
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Old 10-08-2009, 11:30 PM   #2
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you should only have 24 v to the gas valve. is that what you meant?

dirty burners,flame sensors or pilot will cause the control to shut off the gas valve. check these and make sure they arent dirty.

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Old 10-09-2009, 06:54 AM   #3
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Hmm... you got a 90% ICP furnace with a dumb valve. Yhe valve was such a problem ICP and others have dis continued it's use.

Soft lock out could be a failing igniter. At room temp the igniter should be at about 60 to 100 ohms. Anything over or under this can cause the igniter not to get hot enough.
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Old 10-09-2009, 07:37 AM   #4
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After I sent this thread I found some information about the soft lockout code. The information that I read indicates possible flame sensor problems.
Upon visual inspection of flame sensor it did not look dirty, unfortunately I did not clean it when I had it out, not sure why I didn't. I will try and ohm the ignitor this weekend to determine if bad.

P. S. I did have 120v at gas valve.
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Old 10-09-2009, 09:24 AM   #5
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I believe the 120 volts is for the ignitor. Check the wiring diagram on the back of the blower panel, I believe there is a 24v circuit as well, and the diagram will show the appropriate wires and voltage. In troubleshooting, turn off the gas, remove the plugs, put your meter leads in the 24v section. If you get 24v, I would say the valve is bad. If not, one needs to look elsewhere.

If the furnace is less than five years, it's probably under warranty.
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Old 10-09-2009, 10:28 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdb1961 View Post
After I sent this thread I found some information about the soft lockout code. The information that I read indicates possible flame sensor problems.
Upon visual inspection of flame sensor it did not look dirty, unfortunately I did not clean it when I had it out, not sure why I didn't. I will try and ohm the ignitor this weekend to determine if bad.

P. S. I did have 120v at gas valve.
Would have assumed you read and followed the code instructions. I thought you had cleaned the sensor before posting. Do that first thing.
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Old 10-13-2009, 10:34 AM   #7
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Replaced the ignitor/flame rod assembly over the weekend and still continue to experience a soft lockout. I have checked and have both 120V and 20V at the gas valve. Checked voltage at the the secondary transformer at 27V also all controls read between 13 - 16 volts (I read on the inside of the cover this is normal reading). Is there a way to isolate the gas valve to determine beyond a reasonably doubt that the Honeywell smart valve is bad?
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Old 10-13-2009, 05:03 PM   #8
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Comfortmaker


I shouldn't have told you to turn off the gas. Leave the gas on. Energize the heating circuit. Check for 24 volts to the gas valves. The wiring diagram on the door panel will tell you which two wires (24volts circuit) are for the gas valve. If you get 24 volts and no fire, then you can be pretty sure the valve is bad. However, if you want to be certain, do a continuity check at the 24volt tabs on the valve.... an open reading will confirm the valve is bad. By the way, when doing the continuity check, make sure the leads are off the valve. 13-16 volts is strange, but if the litterture says this is normal, sobeit.
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Old 10-13-2009, 05:28 PM   #9
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http://img394.imageshack.us/i/comfortmaker90wiring.pdf/

Check page 30. The OP is not describing the furnace with any accuracy.
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Last edited by hvaclover; 10-13-2009 at 05:34 PM.
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Old 04-20-2011, 04:19 PM   #10
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I have a 20+ year old 95% FUE Comfortmaker which just started to act up. It heats the house, then goes into a 'lockout' mode in which the computer blinks continuously and the fan runs at full tilt. Book says to cycle the power. It starts and runs normal after that until things warm up. The blink code is supposed to mean 'flame sensed with no call for heat' which doesn't mean crap to me. All the other blinker codes indicates some real problem (pressure switch, grounded condensate, etc). Anyways, I pulled out the flame sense switch and cleaned it, no effect. Checked for water in the condensate trap (you MUST have some in there for it to work, but not excess), no effect, and then pulled out the heat limit switch. It was a bit charred and disintegrated when I softly removed it. New one was $15. from a parts guy down the street but new ones on internet can be $150. WTFIT?? Put the new limit switch in and it fired right up no further problems.

Furnace part guy told me that a lot of the new super filters are causing furnace problems because they restrict the airflow too much causing an overheat situation. That can tax the limit switch & materials. I changed the filter, too, BTW.

Just thought I'd pass on this information. You really need to save the Installation and Operating procedures booklet so you can interpret the computer flashing LED codes on your furnace.

That's all folks !!
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