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cav 10-01-2012 07:52 PM

circulator problem?
I have a weil mcclain oil boiler. I have replaced the electric box with a taco box and replaced the flow valves with taco electric zone valves. Before I had 2 taco circulators. These were 3/4" and one was for upper and the other for lower. Both 3/4" lines went into a 1 1/4" pipe that went into the boiler. The heating contractor that was supposed to do it for me stiffed me on the job after I did work for him. Before that he had told me the box and valves to get which I did and they are hooked up and working fine. He also told me to just use 1 circulator and to get 2 copper 1 1/4" adapters and 2 -1 1/4" circulator flanges. We did this and sweated the adapters in but this is the part that doesn't seem right. We put the 3/4" circulators on the 1 1/4" pipe. It doesn't seem right that the 1 circulator is being cut down that much. It also seem now that with both zones going at the same time the upper is not getting that warm. Do
I need a circulator with a 1 1/4" flange? Do I need one with more hp? Any help will be greatly appreciated as it's getting colder at night. The circulator I now have on is a taco 007-f5, 1/25 hp. The valves are taco zone sentry zone valves 3/4" sweat and the box is a taco zvc403 box. Thanking everyone in advance for whatever help you can give me. Also, the valves work great. They open about 20 seconds aftre the thermostats call for heat and about 1 second later the circulator kicks in. The boiler pressure is about 12 or 13. Thanks again.

Missouri Bound 10-01-2012 08:00 PM

What pressure is the boiler operating at? Are you sure there is no air in the lines? If you operate only the upper zone does it work properly?:eek:

cav 10-01-2012 09:23 PM

Not sure on the pressure. There may still be some air in the line as it usually takes awhile to get rid of it. The upper turns on and off when it's supposed to. Doesn't get that hot though.

Missouri Bound 10-01-2012 09:26 PM

Boilers require two things to work properly...adequate pressure and lines filled with water. Without the pressure the pump can't push water effectively, and with air in the lines it can't move the water to the upper zones and sometimes the entire system is affected. Get a boiler tech in to help you with these issues.:yes:

ben's plumbing 10-01-2012 11:17 PM


Originally Posted by cav (Post 1021638)
Not sure on the pressure. There may still be some air in the line as it usually takes awhile to get rid of it. The upper turns on and off when it's supposed to. Doesn't get that hot though.

can you look at pressure guage... reads tempeture and pressure... and are there ant auto air vents in system..

cav 10-02-2012 06:20 AM

Do you think it should have a 1 1/4 circulator rather than a 3/4 on the circulator flange? Does it make a difference? Can that slow things down? 2 techs ago tech ripped me off for $750 for a tiger loop that was $75 and the last tech was supposed to have done all this after I did work for him. I can only afford so much and thats why I'm trying to do this myself.

cav 10-02-2012 07:45 AM

I just checked and it looked to be about 12 or 13 where the guage says pressure. I'm sure the air is out of the lines now.

techpappy 10-02-2012 12:07 PM

more info pls..did you eliminate the two 3/4" pumps and replace with one common 1 1/4" pump..if so, that could be the problem...I am imagining that you had a 3/4 pump for each zone but have now twinned your zone return lines into one 1 1/4 line and pump to the boiler..if this is the case the pump will circulate more water from one zone than the other because the water will follow path of least resistance...As previously asked ..will the upper zone increase in temp if lower zone is OFF....

If the old set up worked I would have left it as pump for each zone

If you have isolation valves to each zone you may be able to balance the flow by toggling the lower zone to about half in order to force more flow through the upper zone

cav 10-02-2012 12:20 PM

The valves were shot. Replaced them many times. I spoke to Taco and asked them and they said the only difference with the pump was the flanges and it would be the same pump. With the house not being a huge house they thought 1 would be fine. Don't know. Both zones seem to be about the same.

techpappy 10-02-2012 12:32 PM

what temperature is the boiler operating at ...may just have to turn up the control stat

cav 10-02-2012 01:59 PM

The aquastat is at 140 170

techpappy 10-02-2012 02:08 PM

what temp does the thermometer on the boiler show..140 should be OK this time of year..are both supply and return hot

cav 10-02-2012 02:22 PM

When running they are warm

techpappy 10-02-2012 02:31 PM

what temp is the water..if both supply and return are same then turn up there an outdoor reset control or secondary aquastat that may be limiting water temp due to warm outdoor temps..if so crank it up temporarily to see if temps rise etc.

cav 10-02-2012 02:57 PM

No nothing outside

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