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|03-14-2011, 01:34 AM||#1|
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 6Rewards Points: 10
Checking an Install
I just had two 20+ year old systems replaced by a very reputable company in my area. My house is a 2000 sqft townhome in DC. It's about 200 years old, and insulation is crap, which I know is a problem, but I'm having major issues with the new install. I have two of the following heat pump systems installed:
Goodman Model DSCZ160241: 2 Stage / 2 Ton / 24,000 Btu air cooled heat pump condenser rated at 16 SEER,
Goodman Model AEPF183016: 2 Ton variable speed indoor air handler with expansion valve
They replaced the upstairs unit, using existing ductwork, and put the downstairs unit in the basement and ran new ductwork.
As soon as the upstairs unit was installed, I knew something was wrong. It was practically blowing the house down and was extremely noisy. I'm not an HVAC guy, but I know the sound of a machine when it's redlining, but the installers insisted it was working correctly for a week. Finally it completely fried the 60 amp fuse it was on, and they had a tech come out and look at it. He had to completely rewire it. When I asked if it had been wired for two-stage heating, he said they were wired for 'no stage heating'.
After the rewiring the system, it quieted down, but I'm not getting much heat out of it. Even on a mild day, both systems are running constantly and it feels like they are blowing out room temperature air. It's been in the mid 30's at night, and the systems can't keep up, so I'm wondering if the electric backup heat is even working.
In the basement the ductwork is very leaky. They mounted it up against a structural beam. The side next to the beam, and the side against the ceiling do not have any foil tape/goop where the ductwork is joined. A lot of air is escaping and blowing right on my 200 year old structural wood. Seems like they should have made the whole line airtight, then installed it, instead of only sealing 1/2 of it as they installed each section.
Also, aside from the main line, all of the ducts going out to the registers are all insulated flex tubing.
There are a bunch of other issues I've had with them (brand new paslode nail gun is missing/using my equipment/leaving debris and trash everywhere). I've basically lost all confidence here, despite their flawless angieslist rep. I'm going to have another company come out to assess the installation, but I was hoping to get some questions answered first.
Is the ductwork supposed to be airtight or are multiple noticable leaks common? And should the tape/gloop go all the way around the line where it is joined with another section?
Is constantly running and blowing out air that's .1 degrees higher than room temperature how these high efficiency systems work?
Is is okay to use so much flex tubing or is solid aluminum better?
|03-14-2011, 05:15 AM||#2|
An old Tradesmen
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 33,576Rewards Points: 6,116
The whole duct should be sealed. Where its against a beam, hardcast/mastic tape should have been used as the sealer.
They probably didn't set up the blowers and still have them running at factory default, of 1600 CFM instead of the 800 CFM they should be at. Running at 1600 CFM will cause low capacity, and of course poor temp difference.
Since they are 2 stage, they should be running a long time.
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