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Old 02-01-2014, 06:35 PM   #16
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Central AC/Furnace Repair Question


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Carrier district manager or regional manager. would have to contact Carrier for your area and complain or ask for that person. HDepot and all big box stores including Seers from my experience charge about 10% more for the same product as a contractor ( it is all sub contracted out to the same contractors anyway or the cheaper ones as they bid on that contract and the cheapest guy gets it). I would stay away and find a reputable contractor in your area by talking to your neighbors, co-workers etc as they won't lie. that extra 10% is the price people pay for "peace of mind" that they will stay in biz or some goofy reward points worth about 1-10 cents apiece. Post some pics of your furnace with the doors off so I can see exactly which one it is.
I will call the district manager on Monday and see if I can get anywhere with them. The only reason I shop with big stores is because they usually have 0% financing over several months which makes big purchases like new furnace easy to pay off. Most local contractors don't offer financing and I have to pay everything at once. Plus if there's a problem when going through big box stores, you can contact their local store or even bring it up to the corporate level to get something done. With local contractors, you're at their mercy if a problem comes up. My neighbor just had his furnace replaced so I'll definitely talk to him and get a recommendation. Anyway, I took some pics of my furnace, hope it helps. See links below.

http://s961.photobucket.com/user/sum...90834.jpg.html
http://s961.photobucket.com/user/sum...90814.jpg.html
http://s961.photobucket.com/user/sum...90707.jpg.html
http://s961.photobucket.com/user/sum...90652.jpg.html
http://s961.photobucket.com/user/sum...90635.jpg.html

Thanks again.

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Old 02-01-2014, 06:54 PM   #17
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Central AC/Furnace Repair Question


Looking at those pictures, I don't think I would spend the money putting any cells into it.

That furnace needs to be looked at for venting issues or determine where the water came from that rusted it.
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Old 02-01-2014, 07:12 PM   #18
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Looking at those pictures, I don't think I would spend the money putting any cells into it.

That furnace needs to be looked at for venting issues or determine where the water came from that rusted it.
The water came from my old water heater that leaked. That water heater had rusted from the bottom and caused the leak. I have already replaced the water heater with a new one. Like I said in a previous post, I've been dealing with this issue since last November. Since the furnace is right next to it, it got to the furnace.
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Old 02-01-2014, 07:20 PM   #19
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The water came from my old water heater that leaked. That water heater had rusted from the bottom and caused the leak. I have already replaced the water heater with a new one. Like I said in a previous post, I've been dealing with this issue since last November. Since the furnace is right next to it, it got to the furnace.
I think hes talking about the rust around burner area.
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Old 02-01-2014, 07:28 PM   #20
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I think hes talking about the rust around burner area.
Ah, I see. Yeah I don't know where that came from. Any idea what/where I can check to determine that? Also, what is the thing on top of the furnace? From what I have read, the thing to the left is the air return duct? I'm just trying to learn as much as I can before I let a contractor in to sell me a furnace.

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Old 02-01-2014, 07:41 PM   #21
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Thats the A-coil on top of furnace, thats the first place id look for a source of the water leaking into the furnace.
Drain could be plugged or pan could have a hole in bottem, carrier has been famous for bad coils among other things for years.
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Old 02-01-2014, 07:56 PM   #22
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Thats the A-coil on top of furnace, thats the first place id look for a source of the water leaking into the furnace.
Drain could be plugged or pan could have a hole in bottem, carrier has been famous for bad coils among other things for years.
How do I go about investigating the A-coil? Is there some access panel to look inside? Also, if I have the furnace replaced, what all will/expected to be replaced. Will the A-coil, return duct, the duct leading to the chimney also be replaced?

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Old 02-01-2014, 08:16 PM   #23
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Id suggest changing atleast the A-coil.
The return air drop and all that kind of stuff will depend on what is required to transition between old and new furnace, if the old furnace filter was mounted inside furnace it will probably need a new return drop.
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Old 02-01-2014, 08:27 PM   #24
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Id suggest changing atleast the A-coil.
The return air drop and all that kind of stuff will depend on what is required to transition between old and new furnace, if the old furnace filter was mounted inside furnace it will probably need a new return drop.
Any idea on the cost of a new A-coil? By old furnace filter, are you talking about the filter that you have replace every 2-3 months, those mesh filter things? If so, I think mine is part of the return drop. See the picture link.

http://s961.photobucket.com/user/sum...12121.jpg.html

Thanks again.
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Old 02-02-2014, 08:54 AM   #25
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If you can get all new cells then I may fix it otherwise not. If you want to go big box I would go with Sears as I think they are the easiest to deal with later and they have their own parts store. My friend had carpet done by the orange guys and lots of trouble getting it done properly and the contractor damaged some walls etc. You end up with some 1-800 # and playing telephone tag etc. Not as good as it sounds using them IMO. HDepot sells Trane which is a very good reliable unit and a bit more expensive but the reliability is there like a Toyota. Not sure what Sears sells in your area but where I am it is usually Carrier and ICP/Keeprite which are OK.

The rust may have been a one time occurrence where the water from the AC overflowed because the drain line fitting got plugged. Get them to check the drain and make sure the underside of the AC coil is clean and the pan has no holes in it. May not be a big problem and a one time event. GET the Freon level checked in the early summer because if it is low then the coil will freeze and leak water.

I would use the line of credit loan on my house B4 I forked over an extra 10% to anybody. Interest rates are low anyway and you can pay it off slowly where I am.

I would go with a high efficiency furnace and get the rebate. If you save $600 with no repair plus $300 rebate and cancel the repair plan at $100 for 5 yrs you got $1400 which is 1/3 the cost of a new furnace. Get it cleaned every yr or 2nd and you should be OK. After 5 yrs get the plan again as the parts warranty is off.
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Last edited by yuri; 02-02-2014 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 02-02-2014, 11:37 AM   #26
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What area of the country do you live in? Do you live in big city or small town? Your prices can vary a lot based on competition and regulations
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:45 PM   #27
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What area of the country do you live in? Do you live in big city or small town? Your prices can vary a lot based on competition and regulations
I live in the Detroit metropolitan area so there's plenty of HVAC contractors and big box stores within my vicinity.
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:13 PM   #28
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If you can get all new cells then I may fix it otherwise not. If you want to go big box I would go with Sears as I think they are the easiest to deal with later and they have their own parts store. My friend had carpet done by the orange guys and lots of trouble getting it done properly and the contractor damaged some walls etc. You end up with some 1-800 # and playing telephone tag etc. Not as good as it sounds using them IMO. HDepot sells Trane which is a very good reliable unit and a bit more expensive but the reliability is there like a Toyota. Not sure what Sears sells in your area but where I am it is usually Carrier and ICP/Keeprite which are OK.

The rust may have been a one time occurrence where the water from the AC overflowed because the drain line fitting got plugged. Get them to check the drain and make sure the underside of the AC coil is clean and the pan has no holes in it. May not be a big problem and a one time event. GET the Freon level checked in the early summer because if it is low then the coil will freeze and leak water.

I would use the line of credit loan on my house B4 I forked over an extra 10% to anybody. Interest rates are low anyway and you can pay it off slowly where I am.

I would go with a high efficiency furnace and get the rebate. If you save $600 with no repair plus $300 rebate and cancel the repair plan at $100 for 5 yrs you got $1400 which is 1/3 the cost of a new furnace. Get it cleaned every yr or 2nd and you should be OK. After 5 yrs get the plan again as the parts warranty is off.

If I end up replacing the furnace, I will of course spend some time looking at all my options. And from all the discussion we've been having, it seems like this going to be the likely option in the end unless I can get the district manager to replace all the coils. I'm not married to idea of using a big box store. A lot of it will depend on how fast I can have the new furnace installed. Looking at Lowes, Sears and Home Depot's websites, none of them have any furnaces in stock. They estimate delivery after Feb 14 which is something I can't live with. It's 58 def F inside my house right now and I've been w/o heat for 3 days now. I don't mind spending the extra money, I want a unit that's reliable and installed correctly. So whether it's a big box store or local contractor...I'm open to either one.

Can you suggest what size furnace I should get? What BTU rating should I look for based on the one I currently have. I don't know the BTU or efficiecy rating of my current furnace. Just to give you an idea, my winter gas/electric bill can get up to 300-400$ in the winter months for a 3000 sq ft home. What sort of number should look for? I don't mind spending a little extra for the 95%+ efficient furnaces. Since my current furnace is a Carrier brand, I don't really want to buy another Carrier.

Looks like HD sells Winchester, Century, and Miller brands. Lowes sells Winchester brand and Sears sells Rheem, Ruud, Amana, Bryant and Goodman. No clue about availablity on particular models as home shipping generally shows on after Feb 14.

I will have the guy that comes out tomorrow take a look at the AC coil drain and underside is clean and has no holes in it. Will also have the FREON level checked in the spring. Also, it's been mentioned that I should maybe have the AC coil changed as well. What should I look for when shopping for this and where can I find this?

Thanks again for your continued help.
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:20 PM   #29
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The A/C coil is part of the A/C, not the furnace. Unless your changing the A/C also, no need to change the A/C coil.
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:29 PM   #30
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The A/C coil is part of the A/C, not the furnace. Unless your changing the A/C also, no need to change the A/C coil.
Thanks for you input. Yeah, the A/C coil stuff is not high on my priority list right now. 1st priority is get a furnace running in this cold temp. But while that work is being done, I would like to find out about why the old furnace has rust and if the A/C coil is causing it. If so, it will just rust my new furnace as well if I get a new one.

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