Carrier Weathermaker 9200 58MXA080-16

Cosmo

Trying the diagnose....

Have done a power on/off reset. Blower comes on for 90 sec. IDM comes on (sometimes), when it does stay on, igniter ignites, main blower comes on, heater heats to setting.

When it does not stay on (IDM) I get a code of 13.

If I tap the side of the housing unit - not the IDM - the IDM will come on and stay on - heater then heats.

Sometimes the IDM will not stay on (it tries - I can hear it)..It will start then stop, then try to start again. then nothing - code 13

Could it be:
1) IDM relay ( If I tap the housing IDM comes on - stuck relay??)

2) Capicator??

3) Bad IDM??

4) Bad Ciruit Board??

Any Ideas????

Thanks

sgthvac

We typically don't memorize fault codes, so what is code 13? That being said, Do you have a volt meter? If you do unplug the IDM the next time it doesn't work and check for 120vts. at the plug. If you have voltage the motor is bad, if not the circuit board is.

Cosmo

just came down from attic. Was listening to the circuit board following a power off/on test. When I get to the IDM I hear a click/squeal noise.. like a relay trying to engage. As I tap the black cover on the PCB the IDM will come on, followed by the igniter, gas valve, then main blower, then heat..


I'm gussing the IDM relay....Can this relay be replaced or does the entire PCB need to be replaced?

Checked the gas vent. no obstructions..Checked the condensate hoses. no obstructions - water does flow when the unit is on.

13 is a limit switch lockout, which says check filter or blocked air flow. Just changed the return air filter and checked for blocked flow. No blockage.



Thanks

Cosmo

2/9/09 Update

I replaced the PCB. Heater ran fine for several days...Then a relay clicking began. The duration of the clicking shortened then stopped after 3-10 clicks over 1-3 minutes. The IDM would try to start at each click, then eventually start. Then heat as per the thermo setting.

no error codes generated.

Thinking it could be the IDM capacitor or the IDM.

Any way to determine which it would be?

yuri

What type of thermostat do you have? Older electronic type? They fail when old and I had a cheap no name type cause a low voltage signal 18 volts instead of 24v to a board. This may be causing the board to malfunction. The IDM relay will be the first to pull in. Try a new Honeywell Vision Pro or Focus Pro type.

Cosmo

have duel thermo's - maple/chase led type (1994) - that go to a control module, then to the PCB

when the pcb was replaced the IDM relay was also sense it is on the PCB. PCB was procurred from a Carrier auth dealer - ICM 282 which was replacement for HK42FZ2007 (original pcb)

are you thinking that the voltage to the relay might be less than 24v? It does eventually catch. How necessary is the capacitor to the IDM..if it does not hold a charge to assist with the start the motor - couild the idm still start??

system has cycled several times today - i.e. call for heat, then heat

there is a transformer (115v/24v) located off the PCB that powers the pcb and the control module that feed the thermostat.

the other two relays - main blower and HSI - both function normally and are similar in that they have 24v on one side and 115v on the other. therefore there should be 24v to the IDM relay...

I suppose the IDM relay on the new PCB could be bad?

yuri

I have never had one of those fail on a ventor fan but it is possible. It gives the motor a boost to get up to speed. The motor will run w/o it but at a lower speed and eventually overheat. You can check the amp draw of it. Sounds to me like you may have an electrical problem between the board and the other module. Low voltage or a backfeed can cause some weird problems.

bbabson

I read your post. Im having the exact problem, I was wondering if you have resolved it yet. If so, if you wouldnt mind filling me in; I would apreciate it.