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-   -   Carrier Weathermaker 8000 thermostat out, air blowing (http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/carrier-weathermaker-8000-thermostat-out-air-blowing-129150/)

Saveme$ 01-07-2012 05:04 PM

Carrier Weathermaker 8000 thermostat out, air blowing
 
I have a carrier weathermaker 8000 58wav. My furnace is blowing cold air continuously and the thermostat won't come on or display anything (honeywell 7day programmer, digital). I changed the fuse (3v) and I have a code 33. I then changed the filter, and blew dust out of the unit and tightened up the spinning wheel in the upper part of the unit. I then turned off the furnace from the breaker box and turned off the switch on the outside of the unit and on the inside of the unit. I turned everything back on and still not power at thermostat and the unit still flashes code 33 and blows air continuously. I took the thermostat off the wall and tested the voltage of the red line and others and I got .2 volts I assume the thermostat is powered via the furnace. What is my problem? How do I fix?

harleyrider 01-07-2012 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Saveme$ (Post 815566)
I have a carrier weathermaker 8000 58wav. My furnace is blowing cold air continuously and the thermostat won't come on or display anything (honeywell 7day programmer, digital). I changed the fuse (3v) and I have a code 33. I then changed the filter, and blew dust out of the unit and tightened up the spinning wheel in the upper part of the unit. I then turned off the furnace from the breaker box and turned off the switch on the outside of the unit and on the inside of the unit. I turned everything back on and still not power at thermostat and the unit still flashes code 33 and blows air continuously. I took the thermostat off the wall and tested the voltage of the red line and others and I got .2 volts I assume the thermostat is powered via the furnace. What is my problem? How do I fix?


What is a code 33 please?

biggles 01-07-2012 05:54 PM

remove the stat and jump R to W for a constant signal...re-power the service switch on the furnace and lets hear the results inducer draft... ignition... burner... fan... read 24Vs off the direct transformer so you know its doing that at least

Doc Holliday 01-07-2012 06:18 PM

There should be a legend which explains what the code 33 stands for. Most times when blower comes on and will not allow you to do anything, no heat or cool -just the blower running continuously, a high temperature limit switch has tripped. That or a flame roll out switch.

Some of these temperature switches are resettable, some are not. The problem would be the furnace is overheating, not the switch tripping as it's doing it's job, most likely caused by air flow restriction. Check the evaporator coil for dirt accumulated and clean it if you can and keep the filters new and clean.

You are going to have to find the switch that is tripped first and hopefully reset it. It's not a good idea to by-pass the switch as it's a safety feature and without it you can burn your house down. If not resettable then you're going to need to buy a new one.

Do you have a meter you can test continuity (ohms) with?

Doc Holliday 01-07-2012 06:26 PM

The not having power to the stat could be related to this, not sure how your furnace is wired, but these temperture limit switches bypass all controls when they trip.

It could very well be a part of the same issue or it could be one all it's own? I guess you do have a meter since you've checked at the stat ,now do so in the furnace on the control board. Check R to C. If you have the same voltage as you have at the stat, zero, than more than likely it is the tripped switch cutting power. The stat draws it power from this control board in the furnace.

If you have 24-ish volts at the furnace and nothing at the stat than you may have a broken or loOse wire, most likely the wire from and on the R terminal.

If not related to the switch tripping it could be the transformer went kapOot.

Saveme$ 01-07-2012 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by biggles (Post 815594)
remove the stat and jump R to W for a constant signal...re-power the service switch on the furnace and lets hear the results inducer draft... ignition... burner... fan... read 24Vs off the direct transformer so you know its doing that at least

I rechecked the thermostat and it read 18v. I read directly off the transformer and it was 24v. I read the terminals on the board and they all read between 19.4v and 19.5v.

Doc Holliday 01-07-2012 06:28 PM

And I like your screename, fits for this place. :thumbup:

Saveme$ 01-07-2012 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doc Holliday (Post 815624)
There should be a legend which explains what the code 33 stands for. Most times when blower comes on and will not allow you to do anything, no heat or cool -just the blower running continuously, a high temperature limit switch has tripped. That or a flame roll out switch.

Some of these temperature switches are resettable, some are not. The problem would be the furnace is overheating, not the switch tripping as it's doing it's job, most likely caused by air flow restriction. Check the evaporator coil for dirt accumulated and clean it if you can and keep the filters new and clean.

You are going to have to find the switch that is tripped first and hopefully reset it. It's not a good idea to by-pass the switch as it's a safety feature and without it you can burn your house down. If not resettable then you're going to need to buy a new one.

Do you have a meter you can test continuity (ohms) with?

my device checks ohms I think. I had a very dirty filter and changed it. My humidifier filter is dirty and needs to be changed. It's on the side of the furnace. I disconnected the line to the humidifier and I'm still getting the same 33 code. where is the evaporator coil? Where are the switches that were tripped?

Doc Holliday 01-07-2012 06:39 PM

This is a flame roll out switch The button in the middle simply needs to be pushed in to reset it. These are located right near the burner orifice, where the gas comes out to produce flames. There may be two or three of these in the same basic area. Follow the wires from one to the other and the next and so on.

Note the two wire terminals. Continuity should be going through these switches until it trips.
http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/Ed...mit_switch.jpg

Doc Holliday 01-07-2012 06:44 PM

This is a high temperature limit switch. Note there is no button on this. It is a temperature sensitive metal, like a thermostat in your vehicle's radiator, that expands and retracts. Once they cool down they usually reset themselves but many do not as they go bad and simply need replacing.

You will only see the round back of this switch, located on blower housing and in the burner area as well but it also has two wires to it. It or they rather should also have continuity through them until they trip.

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ke...4810_limit.jpg

Doc Holliday 01-07-2012 06:48 PM

One more high temp switch. Look at how there's a rectangular backing and the switch is a few inches inside of the furnace. There may be one similar in design on your furnace. Check continuity from each teminal, removing wires first. Does not matter which wire goes onto which terminal when you put them back as long as they're connected.

http://www.bestbuyheatingandaircondi...04237trane.jpg

Doc Holliday 01-07-2012 06:54 PM

This is a pic of a dirty (blocked) evaporator coil. Do you have an upflow vertical furnace or a horizontal? Follow the copper lines to the metal box they go into, that is your evaporator coil which is connected to your furnace. It is only used during cooling mode but is in the way at all times, air has to pass through it regardless of what call the system is on.

http://www.enterami.com/AMI%20Images...l%20before.JPG

Saveme$ 01-07-2012 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doc Holliday (Post 815648)
This is a flame roll out switch The button in the middle simply needs to be pushed in to reset it. These are located right near the burner orifice, where the gas comes out to produce flames. There may be two or three of these in the same basic area. Follow the wires from one to the other and the next and so on.

Note the two wire terminals. Continuity should be going through these switches until it trips.
http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/Ed...mit_switch.jpg


I think I have one, but in the middle the switch is brown. I turned off the unit but did not turn it off from the breaker. I tried to push the button in, but it didn't go in much and I didn't want to force it. Thanks for the pics, but the second two pictures I can't really see anything that look like them.

Saveme$ 01-07-2012 07:22 PM

[QUOTE=Doc Holliday;815663]This is a pic of a dirty (blocked) evaporator coil. Do you have an upflow vertical furnace or a horizontal? Follow the copper lines to the metal box they go into, that is your evaporator coil which is connected to your furnace. It is only used during cooling mode but is in the way at all times, air has to pass through it regardless of what call the system is on.

I guess I have an upflow??....I'll check.


Again, thanks to all for the pictures and the help.

Saveme$ 01-07-2012 07:51 PM

[QUOTE=Doc Holliday;815663]This is a pic of a dirty (blocked) evaporator coil. Do you have an upflow vertical furnace or a horizontal? Follow the copper lines to the metal box they go into, that is your evaporator coil which is connected to your furnace. It is only used during cooling mode but is in the way at all times, air has to pass through it regardless of what call the system is on.

Is the evaporator coil the humidifier? There is a copper line leading that.


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