Carrier Weathermaker 8000 startup probs

muldercs

I have a Carrier weathermaker 8000 WAV091 it ignites fine but goes out 5 or 10 secs after ignition i thought it was flame sensor so got a new one but it still does the same as before I think it maybe the board but not sure i need to check the flame sensor with a meter i believe it should show 0.5 Milliamp DC
when the meter is connected between the end of the flame sensor and the wire that goes into the circuit board is this correct. Also if i get a correct reading of 0.5 is that a good sensor and bad board or bad sensor good board?
I have checked the Pressure switch and this is working ok

yuri

I have worked on hundreds of them and a proper/good flame signal with a new sensor and clean buners is usually between 2-3 microamps. Will lockout around .5 so I suspect you have dirty burners or the flame is not hitting the sensor properly. CAREFULLY remove the burners and blow them out with compressed air and then flush them with hot water in the sink. Dry them and then lightly sand the face of them with fine emory paper to remove the rust or corrosion. BE VERY VERY careful when removing the one by the igniter as it is very easy to nudge it, touch it and break it.

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beenthere

Or a rusty ground.

muldercs

i still dont know how exactly to check flame sensor i get no reading with one wire connected to the end of the flame sensor and the other to the wire that goes into the circuit board not sure if this is correct or not i also tried to get a reading by taking it out and putting it into a flame on the cooker still couldnt get a reading tried taking out the burner tubes? and cleaning them still does same thing not sure i did it right though. heres a video of what happens

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=woPZk...ature=youtu.be

beenthere

Has to be done by putting your meter in series with it, and the burner lite(furnace burners).

Could be that your board is bad.

yuri

Nice gas connector to the valve job. How the H**ll do they get away with that?

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muldercs

Ok checked with meter one end connected to spade terminal on sensor other to wire going to board meter set to MA DC nothing on meter stays at 0.01 or 0.02 took out burners and cleaned check with meter on both new and old sensor same reading. If i had a bad board would it show no reading even if sensor was good or does that mean still bad sensor ? if that is the case i have just bought a new sensor that doesn't even work.

yuri

you are probably using milliamps but that would convert to .1 microamps which is the flame failure/lockout point. looks to me like your flame is not stable and hitting the sensor for a long enough time. the gas pressure on the manifold may be too high and those units have an unven flame from draft from the ventor hitting them. carrier had an accessory baffle to put under the ventor many years ago. an experienced carrier tech may have an old one kicking around so you may want to find that guy and get him to check the manifold gas pressure.

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muldercs

ok i found something else out when it gets ingition lockout and after a hour or so it will reset itself so the led is back to not flashing and then i start it up it will light and run for like 10 mins then shutoff (not reaching the Thermostat temp) then still give me the led code for inigition proving failure code 34 but if it was flame sensor would it run for 10 mins? After that it will try to restart and light but only stay lit for a few seconds each time for another few tries before entering lockout

yuri

your flame signal/current is at the very borderline of locking out . in order to have it run properly it must be above 1 microamp and most of those can easily prodeuce 3 when working properly. flame will change with outdoors temps, draft thru the chimney etc so you are lucky it still runs. I would try find an experienced carrier tech and have him check the gas pressure and see if he can get that air baffle for you. no homemade one will work as it specially attaches to the ventor fan.

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muldercs

This unit is still giving me a headache had two techs over one claimed the new flame sensor wasn't at the correct angle so he put in my old flame sensor and while he there it was working fine next day was not and doing same as before got another tech out this time he said gas pressure wasn't quite right so he adjusted that connecting a meter to the gas valve again was working fine again then this morning no heat again I checked code on led this time constant flashing says reverse polarity turned off power to reset and waited a few mins then switched on power it would not stop blinking and blower was constantly on and would not go off tried a test of board I could hear relay clicking but nothing would switch on do I now I have a bad board or something else

beenthere

Was any electrical work done in the last 6 months or so.

ben's plumbing

seem like the burners are comming on very hard and unstable....I would have manifold pressure checked ...and inlet gas pressure checked also.....not to mention the code violation with that flex connector....its not suppose to be inside furnace cabinet....ben sr

muldercs

Finally got it fixed it was a bad board still doesn't still lit first time but does second time