I have a Carrier Weather Maker furnace and the LED code is reading 42. This means the inducer is not up to the proper RPM. Actually the inducer isn't turning at all or even making an attempt. I am trying to determine if the motor or the controller is the problem. I went through the start up process by switching dip switch 6 to the on position and had the same result. I have 120VAC to the motor and I need to check the other voltages to see if the controller is providing the signal. The wiring diagram on the heater doesn't show voltages. Where can I find the voltages (probably 24V) for the yellow, orange, and brown wires?
B4 you go poking around in there turn off the power and wait 5 mins. There are 3 LARGE capacitors in the module and they can kill you if they are not allowed to discharge slowly.
Plumber101, thank you for the reminder about checking the ohms & continuity.
Yuri, thanks for letting me know about the capacitors. Are the capacitors in the control module or with the ECM motor? After waiting 5 minutes, should I short them with a screwdriver just to be sure the charge is depleted?
They are in the module and will drain themselves. Probably have a bleed resistor circuit on them. They are BIG and powerful suckers. A capacitor can explode if discharged with a screwdriver. I would wait 10 minutes to be safe. Here is a troubleshooting manual for U:http://www.hvactroubleshooters.com/CARRIER/58MVP%20TROUBLE%20GUIDE%20COND%20FURNACES.pdf
They are in the module and will drain themselves. Probably have a bleed resistor circuit on them. They are BIG and powerful suckers. A capacitor can explode if discharged with a screwdriver. I would wait 10 minutes to be safe. Here is a troubleshooting manual for U:http://www.hvactroubleshooters.com/CARRIER/58MVP TROUBLE GUIDE COND FURNACES.pdf
I thought he was trouble shooting an inducer motor and not a VS blower motor. I didn't think the teckmate was for inducer motors. If you could explain to me so if there is something I'm missing I will be better for my next service call
Yuri, You're Awesome! I appreciate the links. I'll follow these procedures and hopefully determine the actual cause of the problem. I'll keep you posted.
Yuri, based on my earlier inspection, I used Appendix D Quick Motor Test Procedure. The voltages on the inducer connection (step 18) checked out nicely at 0, 2.48, & 7.46vdc. The next step is to replace the inducer motor or motor assembly. Now, I just have to find a motor at a good price.
Yah, I missed the inducer too. Only Carrier uses ECM inducers that I know of. (The new Lennox G71 now has one). That furnace is a Bear to troubleshoot. Carrier threw every bit of technology they could think of into it. Overkill IMO.
The inducer and fan is one complete unit and has to be purchased as one. Difficult to replace and let me know when you are doing it and I will talk you thru it/save you a LOT of misery.
I received a new ECM motor. I was able to get just the motor without the complete assembly. I have unsrewed the motor mount but I can't figure out how to remove the old motor (pull it away from the inducer). I can see on the new motor that the shaft has a flat portion at the end (a key) and it is smooth so I confident it doesn't have a C ring on the end. It should simply pull out. When I pull on the old motor it offers resistance. I don't want to break anything. Do you have any suggestions?
And biy did it bleed..every thing here fine just a bunch of service calls. No one in my area likes to work on fireplace NG/LPG inserts. Can you say $$$$
Yesterday 7 furnaces and 3 fire place, today new install and tomorrow new install just freak'n busy
OK, it wasn't easy. After removing the inducer assembly, I had to remove a set screw that attached the fan blades to the motor shaft. The only way to access it was to open the inducer assembly. However, the plastic blades have a steel center which was frozen on the motor shaft. Long story short, I had to drill the motor shaft completely out and collapse even the thin piece remaining. In the process, it would have been very easy to damage the plastic blades or break them free from the steel center. I was able to reassemble the inducer assembly with the new motor and reinstall it in the furnace. Everything worked fine on the startup test using dip switch 6. I closed up the furnace and it is working well. For most people faced with this problem, I would recommend getting the full inducer assembly and motor combination. However, I was able to save over $200 by only replacing the motor itself.
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