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-   -   Carrier Furnace Possible Inducer Motor Problems? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/carrier-furnace-possible-inducer-motor-problems-85412/)

Mogambo 10-31-2010 02:21 PM

Carrier Furnace Possible Inducer Motor Problems?
 
A year ago I noticed that my furnace had stopped working. The inducer motor was running but the unit was not igniting. After a little peeking and prodding I noticed that there was a little red button (actually there are several of them in the unit) that had popped up. I pushed the button in and the unit started working, That was it. It worked through the entire winter season.

This year when I started up the unit it would not start. Same problem. So I pushed the red button and teh unit ran. But for 3 days. Now each time I push the button the unit runs for about 10 minutes before the button pops.

I called the HVAC repair guys and they replaced the sensor/button thinking it was old and perhaps required replacement. They checked the exhaust, vent etc and everything seems fine. The new button/switch/sensor did not help.

They (the HVAC repair guys) told me to get a chimney guy to up on the house and make sure the exhaust vent is clear and not blocked. I did so and everything is clear.

One thing that I noticed. When I push the button and start the system, I notice that there is a little smoke that manages to escape from the joints on the metal pipe/duct that leads the exhaust out of the house. Is that normal?

Also, what could the problem be? Is the inducer motor running too week? The HVAC guy said he doesnt think so.

Any ideas? Thanks.

beenthere 10-31-2010 02:25 PM

Cracked heat exchanger.

Mogambo 10-31-2010 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beenthere (Post 526191)
Cracked heat exchanger.

This unit is 21 years old. Is a cracked heat exchanger the end of this unit?

beenthere 10-31-2010 02:31 PM

Not worth it to replace the heat exchanger.

Check in to getting a 95% efficient one.

Mogambo 10-31-2010 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beenthere (Post 526197)
Not worth it to replace the heat exchanger.

Check in to getting a 95% efficient one.

When I change the furnace, should I also change the associated Air Conditioner? Does it make ssense to change both? Is it cheaper, long and short term to simply change one and not the other?

beenthere 11-01-2010 03:39 AM

Depends how old the A/C is.

If its some what new. Then no reason to change out th A/C also. If its as old as the furnace. Then its a good idea to change it out also.

Mogambo 11-01-2010 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beenthere (Post 526498)
Depends how old the A/C is.

If its some what new. Then no reason to change out th A/C also. If its as old as the furnace. Then its a good idea to change it out also.


Thanks. The A/C is as old as the furnace.

By the way I am curious, what made you think its the heat exchanger? So I understand whats going on.

beenthere 11-01-2010 03:44 PM

The little red button. Is the reset for the roll out switch.

Next time you gonna be down in the basement with the furnace. Turn up thermostat and watch the burners. Watch the flame when the fan comes on. If the flames start dancing or coming back toward the gas valve. thats a real good indication of a cracked heat exchanger.

Mogambo 11-07-2010 07:41 PM

So here is the latest. BTW the circuit board gives an error code of 31. The Carrier Unit is Model# 58DHC095-JC, Circuit Board HH84AA016

I had a repair (in fact two of them) guy come in. Both say the heat exchanger is fine.

The first guy went and changed the high limit auto reset temperature cutoff sensor and the high limit manual reset safety cutoff. That did not solve the problem.

When the second repair guy came we noticed that the first had put a 200F high limit auto reset temperature cutoff and a 175F manual reset safety cutoff. Well duh! so the manual reset safety cutoff would keep kicking in. So now I have a 215F safety cutoff (manual reset) and a 180F auto reset high limit switch.

The 215F safety cutoff manual reset switch is the old one that I saved.

The unit is performing better, as in it works as long as it does not have to run for a long time. For example if I tell it to maintain 80F in the house, it will have to run for hours. And somewhere after a few hours of running the manual reset High limit safety switch will pop.

I had the entire flue inspected and all is fine there.

So for some reason the unit still thinks its overheating. Any ideas? The HVAC repair guys say that everything seems to be in working order, and yet, it cuts off.

beenthere 11-08-2010 02:45 AM

Post pics of where the manual reset limit is.

Mogambo 11-08-2010 02:33 PM

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f3...01280Large.jpg


Its the switch to the right and lower of the inducer, I tried to circle it in red. To the left of the inducer motor the red rectangle is where the auto reset high limit sensor is.

beenthere 11-09-2010 04:42 AM

You have vent problems. Check your chimney/flue for restrictions.

Mogambo 11-09-2010 09:20 AM

I had the chimney/flue inspected. Everything is fine. In fact even tested the unit with the flue disconnected and it cuts off. The only part we could not look into was the final 12 maybe 18 inches from the inducer motor to the unit's vent where the flue is attached. That path curves and I cant look in.

The unit is also moody. One day it will work andother day it will cutoff after 15 minutes. So testing can be a real pain.

Thanks.

beenthere 11-09-2010 05:33 PM

Its always easier to test. When it quits working while your there.

Mogambo 11-09-2010 08:15 PM

I have sat there for an hour and it doesnt cut off. Then the moment I climb down from the attic it cuts off. I am not kidding. It is possessed LOL


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