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Old 10-24-2009, 10:26 AM   #16
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thanks beenthere. schnabeljs pointed that out also and it was apparent that i have leaks that i need to fix that led to the fusible link blowing in hindsight.


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Old 10-24-2009, 02:21 PM   #17
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Carrier furnace 58PAV070-08

My furnace would not stay running, the flames would go out afetr running for only seconds and I would get an ignition proving failure.
I have since replaced the flame sensor, (first time in 13 yrs, I have cleaned it several times in the past).
Now the inducer blower will not even start, only the house blower.
The code I now get is a continuous flashing light, reversed polarity?
The transformer does not smell or appear to be cooked.
I have depressed the limit switch (between to wires in the top right corner) several times to reset.
Could my problem also be the "fusible link"?
I have already ruled out the exterior furnace switch and thermostat.

If I don't fix this soon, my wife of 20 years will be forced to deal with this herself as I will be off to the Carribean for good, without her.
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:44 PM   #18
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carrier split system only indoor fan motor runs

using this web site : found the inline fuse to the high limit was bad mingledorffs had the kit for 14.00 testing using an ohm meter both side of the fuse simple five minute job . what caused mine to blow probally age 1985 unit but if flame is more then an inch could be bad gas valve. they also have the fuses for six dollars you just have to crimp them on wire. Thanks diy works great .
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Old 10-27-2011, 03:30 PM   #19
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Were they fuses, or were they inline fuseable links, that are temp sensitive.
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Old 11-13-2014, 10:37 PM   #20
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This thread helped me solve my problem

I was having the same symptoms on my Payne furnace with the same controller board: Blower was on constantly, but no heat. The piezo igniter wasn't even clicking to light the pilotless pilot. Also, when I took AC voltage measurements of the wires leading to the thermostat, the red lead was at 0 V relative to the "C" terminal, instead of 24 V. I initially thought it was a bad controller board with a stuck relay, and possibly other problems, but, thanks to this thread, I discovered it wasn't.

The clue was the mention of the Lim1 and Lim2 terminals on the controller board. I traced the wires and also found they led to what I assume is the aforementioned temperature limit switch and fusable link above the burner by the heat exchanger. But I also found, electrically in series with those components, but a couple feet away in the blower compartment, was some kind of resettable breaker. I don't know if it was a thermal breaker or a current breaker, or what, but when I traced the voltage with the voltmeter, I saw it was an open circuit. I found and pressed its small reset button, exposed on the outside of the furnace, to reset the breaker, and everything worked. I'm running it now to see if the breaker tripping indicates a problem, or was just a one-off.

Obviously, I know nothing about furnaces, or I would have fixed the problem in five seconds instead of taking hours, but hopefully this will be helpful to someone else with the same problem and will save him or her a repair call.

I should also say that, before this fix, I was experiencing the possibly unrelated problem of the blower humming but not being able to start turning on its own. I found that if I manually started it spinning with my hand, it would spin up to speed and work normally. A web search quickly revealed people suggesting checking the capacitor, which was in the form of metallic can about the size of a playing card deck, strapped to the blower. I didn't have a capacitance meter, so I decided to take a chance and buy a new capacitor of the same capacitance (5 microfarads in my case) and voltage. Replacing the capacitor was very quick, and the blower started easily, all by itself, after that (but still no heat until the second fix above). I got the capacitor at a local furnace repair place for $8. It was also available online at Amazon and elsewhere for a similar price, and could be special ordered from Home Depot for less than $2.

It took a few hours, but I ended up spending only $8 to fix the furnace, instead of potentially hundreds.


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