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Old 07-23-2012, 10:33 PM   #16
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Carrier Cool & Heat 8.81 lbs Charge, comp. not running - fan is running


I would think a high press switch would have been hooked up at the factory and if it was field bypassed you would have seen they had been cut and the wires connected together on the control box side of the cut. A liq line solenoid valve would need to be wired in the field with the tstat wiring. Only a guess as to that being what it is by your description. Some one may have put it in and not figured out how to wire it. It would have a electric coil similar to the coil on the reversing valve.


The real interesting thing is I can't remember if it is normally open or closed. If normally closed the unit would pump its self down and shut off on low pressure switch. Has the system ever ran at its current location?

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Old 07-23-2012, 11:01 PM   #17
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Carrier Cool & Heat 8.81 lbs Charge, comp. not running - fan is running


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Originally Posted by turnermech View Post
I would think a high press switch would have been hooked up at the factory and if it was field bypassed you would have seen they had been cut and the wires connected together on the control box side of the cut. A liq line solenoid valve would need to be wired in the field with the tstat wiring. Only a guess as to that being what it is by your description. Some one may have put it in and not figured out how to wire it. It would have a electric coil similar to the coil on the reversing valve.

The real interesting thing is I can't remember if it is normally open or closed. If normally closed the unit would pump its self down and shut off on low pressure switch. Has the system ever ran at its current location?
Yes, it has been running and the compressor apparently just stopped running. System was on and running (condenser fan running) when I arrived, but no warm or hot air coming out the top of unit. Just scroll to my first post if you wanna see the conditions when I arrived.

The wire ends were stripped and clean - just laying there bare, no wire nuts or anything nearby. This is my first time being up close to a heat pump (have only seen one on youtube.com), but if memory serves, a reversing valve is much bigger. If there's a coil in this thing, it's entirely internal. The body of this thing reminds of something more like an automotive engine oil pressure switch (electrical), at least on my truck (except this "switch" is bigger, with two wires, maybe both yellow, coming of the top - it's mounted vertically). The liquid line runs horizontally near the ground and this "switch" sticks up perpendicular to the liq line.

I just looked at a reversing valve online (nothing like that). It's looks more like a pressure switch mounted into the side of an automotive Air Cond. accumulator (that's what they called when I did a short stint on Auto Air Conditioning (long time ago, however). Honestly, I can't remember its exact shape, but this what it most reminds me of...
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Old 07-23-2012, 11:22 PM   #18
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Carrier Cool & Heat 8.81 lbs Charge, comp. not running - fan is running


Well, I guess I'm getting tired and maybe not paying attention closely enough. You weren't saying what I was looking at was necessarily as big as a reversing valve - you were only saying that the coil would be similar. It could be indeed, as far as size, but it's not what I would call a bare or exposed coil like the one I just looked at online. It would be more of an internal, or encased type coil.

My bedtime - if you reply again, I'll catch it in the morning. Thx again for all your help.

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Old 07-24-2012, 12:49 PM   #19
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Carrier Cool & Heat 8.81 lbs Charge, comp. not running - fan is running


It was the capacitor again (this one was replaced just last year). Installed new one and it's cooling great again.

I checked the amp draw for the compressor (19 amps, RLA was 25 amps). Fan condenser motor (a little under 1 amp). Is the abnormal hot season we're having enough to cook a capacitor that quick or are other factors involved? The brand of capacitor is "Source." Should I use a better brand?

Here's a not-so-clear pic of this unit (couldn't find a better pic). Appears to be an exact match. The arrows show the "switch" or sensor and the line it's mounted into...the switch is only about 3/4 inch diameter or so, and maybe an inch or so tall - 2 wires coming off the top of the switch. Black upper body with narrower silver section at bottom. It does look fairly similar to my engine oil pressure switch.



The switch (this is not exact, but very close):

Last edited by justplumducky; 07-24-2012 at 01:01 PM.
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:06 PM   #20
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Carrier Cool & Heat 8.81 lbs Charge, comp. not running - fan is running


That is a pressure switch should be high pressure. The yellow wires you describe that are stripped would connect to yellow wires coming off the defrost board. IIRC yellow from tstat would conncet to the deforst board another yellow wire would go thorugh the pressure switch and back to the board. the switch is normally closed and opens on pressure problem. Check it with a meter to see if closed (ohms). It would be best to have it hooked up to help protect the system if it is functional. you should find two wires same in color which have been connected together most likely with a wire nut which can be seperated and hooked to the pressure switch.
There is a wiring diagram on the back side of the control door. If you can't read it and can post a pic of it I can tell you how it would have been wired.
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:56 PM   #21
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Carrier Cool & Heat 8.81 lbs Charge, comp. not running - fan is running


Ok, I'll have to go back and talk to him about it. Actually, I should have mentioned it while I was there so he doesn't think I left it that way - but maybe he's already aware of it - dunno. I'll show it to him if he's not aware of it. I'll check it to see if it's closed.

All I have is my new phone and I need to order a microSD card, adapter & reader (no USB capability, but I was willing to trade that for this particular phone - have had the same one for a few years and didn't want anything else after the first one wore out - it's a flip phone) from the Web, so I'm afraid pics are a problem at the moment. I'll see if I can read the wiring diagram.

Can't thank you enough for your help.
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Old 07-24-2012, 06:47 PM   #22
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Carrier Cool & Heat 8.81 lbs Charge, comp. not running - fan is running


The main lesson on this is ALWAYS check the capacitor. Doesn't matter if it was replaced yesterday,when the compressor can't start you check it. Matter of fact it's a good idea to check it no matter what the reason you're there for. It's one of the most common failures in hot weather.
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Old 07-25-2012, 08:23 AM   #23
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Carrier Cool & Heat 8.81 lbs Charge, comp. not running - fan is running


Ok Marty, will do - thx for your input.
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:52 PM   #24
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Carrier Cool & Heat 8.81 lbs Charge, comp. not running - fan is running


Quote:
That is a pressure switch should be high pressure. The yellow wires you describe that are stripped would connect to yellow wires coming off the defrost board. IIRC yellow from tstat would conncet to the deforst board another yellow wire would go thorugh the pressure switch and back to the board. the switch is normally closed and opens on pressure problem. Check it with a meter to see if closed (ohms). It would be best to have it hooked up to help protect the system if it is functional. you should find two wires same in color which have been connected together most likely with a wire nut which can be seperated and hooked to the pressure switch.
There is a wiring diagram on the back side of the control door. If you can't read it and can post a pic of it I can tell you how it would have been wired.

turnermech - I talked with him today about this on the phone - he said he would check with the person who last worked on this condenser unit. If he does get back to me and wants that switch working again, I'll get back you. Thx much.

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