Carrier 58SXC

Greasy

Hi new to DIY and this is what brought me here

I have a Carrier NG furnace model 58SCX and have been having some issues

The furnace will lockout when I'm not home so when I turn it off (light switch next to furnace) it will restart

The blower runs for about 60 seconds
Draft motor will start once mail blower turns off
the glow surface will glow for 20 sec or so
burners will ignite then turn off really quick

SO I read the manual and it says I might have a problem with the flame sensor, I clean out the burner area with air compressor nozzle.

The furnace works better now, won't fire every time though but it does fire more often then before.

SO now I get more aggressive in cleaning it out.

I remove the exhaust line and hook a big shop vac to it. I get quite a bit of water and some other debres from the exhaust. I do the same to intake and nothing

I blow out the water lines with compressed air and get more water out, I accidently shoot about 90 psi to the pressure switch, I think I killed it

now the igniter won't glow at all, I stick a screwdriver in the pressure switch and the igniter glows and burner ignite perfectly every time....huge improvement!!

but now my pressure switch is toast, I tape the 2 wires together and now the furnace is working flawlessly...igniting every time and running like it should.

was the pressure switch the problem? Or should I buy a new one and see if maybe I still have draft problems? The switch is 120 buxs Would the pressure switch cause my first problem of the flames going out right away?

the switch # is FS6595 from tridelta ind inc.


is it safe to run the furnace with pressure switch bypassed until I can get a new one?

Greasy

ok seems I have to have the wires not touching in order to start the draft inducer dang!

once the inducer starts then I have to touch the wires to "trick" the control to start the ignition sequence



guess I'll buy that $120 dollar pressure switch after all

when I suck air thru my defunct one I can tell the bladder inside is torn as it flutters.....my bad

#CARRIERMAN

Hi Greasy

I wish I could have seen this one a little earlier. If you pay $120.00 dollars for a pressure switch for that furnace from a Carrier dealer. I want you to call the cops, because they just ripped you off. You can buy that pressure switch at any dealer for about $40.00 dollars. To fix your furnaces problem, you will need to shut the power off. Go to the opposite burner to the ignitor. There will be a single wire going up to a stainless steel rod that runs in front of the burner. Use a quarter inch nut driver and remove this rod. Use a wire brush and clean this rod. Reinstall it and replace your presure switch, your furnace should run fine again. I would reccomend at the age of your furnace to start having it serviced at least every other year by a proffesional. You have a very good furnace and is worth keeping for a great many years. But just like anything, the older it gets the more attention it may require.

Good luck
Rusty

__________________
Character is doing the right thing even when no one is looking. Intelligence is understanding and practicing the meaning of character.

sailingharry

I found your message looking for information on my 58SXC. I don't have any ideas on your particular problem, but I noticed you mentioned "the manual." I have none, and have not been able to find one on line. Would there be any chance you could make a scanned copy available?

Oh, by the way, Carrier just extended the warranty on the secondary heat exchanger to 20 years parts AND LABOR for original and subsequent owners!

Thanks,

Harry

BGior

Harry,
Thanks for the info on the Carrier extended warranty. Is there a reference website that explains this?
Regarding a manual, all I got for my furnace (installed in 1992) was the schematic on the removable access panel.
-Bill

moll

Did you ever recieve a copy of this owners manual? If so, would you mind to provide me with a copy?
Thx,
Milan

SD515

This is correct. At start up, the computer 'looks' to see if the switch is open, if so it starts the inducer. Then it looks to see if it closed, if so it proceeds to ignition. Failure of 'first open then close' makes it think there is a vent issue...a plugged vent, etc.

And yes...90 psi applied to a pressure switch is about 89.99 psi more than it can handle..so you guess it..it's wasted. $120 is way to much for that part....like CARRIERMAN said, $40 is more reasonable. You may want to consider picking up a new flame sensor while your there, if they'll sell you one for a few bucks. Usually cleaning is all it needs, but I have replaced them before too.

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Kyle

Just because you can, doesn't always mean you should