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-   -   Can I use steel pipe for the oil line to the furnace? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/can-i-use-steel-pipe-oil-line-furnace-130125/)

tractorfarmer 01-15-2012 06:46 PM

Can I use steel pipe for the oil line to the furnace?
 
It is copper tubing now and I am thinking all it takes is someone to bump into it or drop something on it to bend and crimp the pipe and stop the fuel flow. Is there a good reason they use the flexible copper pipe over steel?

Any other ideas? Can I run the braided tubing from the tank to the furnace?

They take all kinds of safety precautions and there are all kinds of devices on the system and here the one most critical thing for the furnace to work properly is strung around the basement from the tank to the furnace and left unprotected.

joecaption 01-15-2012 06:51 PM

And how do you plan on keeping the rust out of the line.
Steel rust copper does not.

tractorfarmer 01-15-2012 06:59 PM

Thanks for replying Joe.
But will steel rust if there is no air in the line? And it is well oiled :) The tank is steel and the only time I hear of rust being an issue is when water gets inside the tank and sits on the bottom.

yuri 01-15-2012 07:16 PM

we use steel on large oil burners to fire steam boilers so there is no problem. copper is quick and easy to bend rather than threading pipe and using fittings etc. may be hard to find steel pipe in that size though. 1/2" is common and you can use bushings at the ends.

tractorfarmer 01-15-2012 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yuri (Post 823793)
we use steel on large oil burners to fire steam boilers so there is no problem. copper is quick and easy to bend rather than threading pipe and using fittings etc. may be hard to find steel pipe in that size though. 1/2" is common and you can use bushings at the ends.


Yuri, what do you mean can use bushings at the ends? I think the copper is thinner then 1/2". Maybe 3/8 ??? I'm heading down the the basement to find out. I don't want to make the pipe ID larger then what is there, right?

Bondo 01-15-2012 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tractorfarmer (Post 823822)
Yuri, what do you mean can use bushings at the ends? I think the copper is thinner then 1/2". Maybe 3/8 ??? I'm heading down the the basement to find out. I don't want to make the pipe ID larger then what is there, right?

Ayuh,... That really don't matter...

The trick might be pitchin' the pipe so's water flows into the filter, If necessary in yer application....

How exposed is yer copper tubin',..??

Ya could always sleeve a "Problem area" with plastic pipe for protection...

tractorfarmer 01-15-2012 10:10 PM

Bondo that was my first thought. Just getting PVC and cutting a slit in it and covering the copper. But I am more concerned with where the filter attaches to the tank. The filter is hanging out about shoulder height and has the copper tubing coming out into the room. Even if I cover it with PVC, it won't be rigid enough to keep the copper from crimping. I'm thinking at least I can put a 90 degree elbow out of the filter and have steel pipe going strait up, then attaching the copper, so it's at least out of reach. But if I can get 3/8 steel threaded pipe, then maybe I can replace all the copper.

COLDIRON 01-16-2012 07:41 AM

If your concern is breaking or damage you should use ACR copper or K copper which is soft but the sidewalls are thick and it would take a lot to break them. Also you can run the copper overhead down the wall to the burner as to eliminate across the floor.

yuri 01-16-2012 08:00 AM

actually the copper we use in my area is acr and thick walled but in his area maybe not?

the copper will absorb shock if banged and the steel won't. once the tank gets old that shock can start a leak at the bottom bung fitting for the filter.

tractorfarmer 01-16-2012 05:15 PM

I can't find markings on the pipe, but it's about 1/2" OD and the connection to the filter is just a 90 degree bend of the copper pipe out of the tank. If they can bend it that easily by hand, I think someone falling into it would crimp it enough to stop the flow of fuel. The piece is about 1 foot long from the tank to the filter, then they used the same copper from the filter to the furnace. How about a braided flex pipe?

Coldiron that is my second problem. One system (the one I am working on) has the fuel line comming out of the top, so it heads up to the cieling and then back down to the furnace. My second furnace has the copper line going from the bottom of the tank to the furnace, but it is all on the ground. I am equally concerned with that one and may try to redo it up to the cieling and then back down to the furnace. But then I may want to install a tigerloop if I change the line.

tractorfarmer 01-17-2012 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yuri (Post 824263)
actually the copper we use in my area is acr and thick walled but in his area maybe not?

the copper will absorb shock if banged and the steel won't. once the tank gets old that shock can start a leak at the bottom bung fitting for the filter.

Yuri - How about running rigid steel along the cieling and then braided flex tubing from the filter to the steel and the steel to the furnace?

plummen 01-17-2012 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 823762)
And how do you plan on keeping the rust out of the line.
Steel rust copper does not.

Do you really think about some of your answers before you post them? :whistling2::laughing:

yuri 01-18-2012 07:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tractorfarmer (Post 826234)
Yuri - How about running rigid steel along the cieling and then braided flex tubing from the filter to the steel and the steel to the furnace?

As long as the braided tubing is approved for fuel oil use. If not and it deteriorates or leaks or has a catastrophic failure your insurance co may have a BIG problem with you.:whistling2:

yuri 01-18-2012 07:12 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Here is another idea. Go to HDepot or a construction material supplier and get some of those metal 2x4's they use in commercial constr. and secure them to the floor or whatever and strap the line to it. use concrete screws or whatever. then you have the line supported and protected from harm. cut that stuff with basic sheet metal snips or hacksaw. put some black foam pipe insulation or pvc on the copper line and use copper strapping to attach it to the metal stud so you don't get some weird galvanic reaction between the two metals if it is damp in the basement. they use this technique in mechanical rooms of bldgs except they use electricians U channel/handy angle but the metal studs should work too.

tractorfarmer 01-18-2012 03:42 PM

Thanks for the metal stud idea. Hmmmmm. I have to think about that. I only have about 1-1/2 inches width in some places. I am trying to get the line to fit between 2 other steel pipes. Maybe I can fit some strut in there. It's only about 1-1/2 inches wide. That stuff is my friend.

Let's see. The fuel line goes out of the top of the tank and then goes up, so even if I did something stupid and caused a break in the fuel line, since the fuel is being pulled into the furnace, it would cause too much air to get into the line and make the furnace not work. Right? I don't think the line getting cut would cause the oil to start flowing out onto the floor.


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