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Old 07-29-2007, 09:09 AM   #16
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Can I do this? - Worried about combustion air (Images)


Quote:
Originally Posted by concretemasonry View Post
J187 -

What about a fresh air intake from the ouside or attic? In amny places a fresh air intake ir required by code. Forgetting about the code, it will save you money buy buring outside air.

The garage vent is an obvious no-brainer no-no. You must have a fire rated wall with no penetrations between your garage and living area for your own safety. Any duct is a pentration that can let in fire, fume and carbon monoxide.

That is what I recommended from the get go. Combustion air brought in from the attic. Read the posts. What are you talking about commercial? A fire rated wall in a house that was built in the 80's. I have never seen a fire damper in a residential house before. That is why the room needs to be sealed. You don't think carbon monoxide poses a danger if it draws combustion air from a conditioned space. Commercial and residential codes are different. Moreover, they aren't going to make you replace all the drywall with fire rated material for a change out lol. You guys do not give real world advice.

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Last edited by Malcolm; 07-29-2007 at 09:12 AM.
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Old 07-29-2007, 05:58 PM   #17
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Can I do this? - Worried about combustion air (Images)


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Originally Posted by Malcolm View Post
OK

Big Mike and MEch

What do you recommend be done in this situation? I know Mech would add a 10 inch goose neck flashing with a 400 CFM fan blowing into the closet. What about you BigMike? And, don't give me I wouldn't run it in the garage out. Give me your answers. I wouldn't run it in the garage either unless that was one of the last options. Well

Malcolm, I don't know why you think I would run a gooseneck (I never posted that). I would get air from the house other than the garage be it from the attic or maybe a duct through the garage to the outside. As for garages not having fire rated walls, in NJ houses built in the 60's have 1/2" sheetrock on the walls seperating the garage from the living area and hollow metal or solid wood doors with a sheetmetal skin. They never allowed any venting from the garage to the house near. Yes all of my job experience is from the northeast states, the ones that have real building codes , job inspections and licensed contractors for the most part. The guy you blasted that posted the IRC code was on the right track as far as I'm concerned.
And I haven't been doing sales,I have been doing commercial HVAC installs for the last 21 years, you know hospitals, schools, malls, all the places residential attic butchers hate to work in.
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Old 07-29-2007, 08:57 PM   #18
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Can I do this? - Worried about combustion air (Images)


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Malcolm, I don't know why you think I would run a gooseneck (I never posted that). I would get air from the house other than the garage be it from the attic or maybe a duct through the garage to the outside. As for garages not having fire rated walls, in NJ houses built in the 60's have 1/2" sheetrock on the walls seperating the garage from the living area and hollow metal or solid wood doors with a sheetmetal skin. They never allowed any venting from the garage to the house near. Yes all of my job experience is from the northeast states, the ones that have real building codes , job inspections and licensed contractors for the most part. The guy you blasted that posted the IRC code was on the right track as far as I'm concerned.
And I haven't been doing sales,I have been doing commercial HVAC installs for the last 21 years, you know hospitals, schools, malls, all the places residential attic butchers hate to work in.

I didn't blast him. I think he is a knowledgeable guy, but he just doesn't have install experience. I was just saying that I have done it before. It was a last resort, but I have done it with code enforcement approval. I know my states codes are extremely strict. I highly doubt yours are worse than ours. I really do not know what you are referring to by residential attic butchers. Commercial work is easier in my opinion. You get a lot of help with longer time lines. Residential time lines are by the day. I have done both and would say commercial work is a lot more relaxed environment. Unless you are referring to residential new construction then I would say they are similar as far as pressure goes. There is a lot more money involved in one job with commercial, so a foreman can get his demands met. They get day laborers, extra help, etc... At the end, they basically have the whole company trying to finish the job if they are behind. Usually, service techs have to wire and do the start ups. Here is the order in which the trucks come back in for the companies I have worked for. Commercial and residential new construction (duct mechanics) guys come back first, then the equipment set out guys come back. The service techs and change out guys are the last ones to come back. They usually work 2 to 3 hours longer than the other guys. I know you think I cut corners, but I do the job well and up to code. My guys rarely fail an inspection and my service guys are considered to be some of the top techs in my area. I just know how it works where existing residential customers are involved. I have done a lot of it as this is where I make most of my money. I was referring to a 1 hour fire rated drywall with fire dampers at the penetrations and the whole 9 yards by the way. You should be really familiar with this if you do commercial work.

Last edited by Malcolm; 07-30-2007 at 11:59 AM.
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Old 07-30-2007, 08:34 AM   #19
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Can I do this? - Worried about combustion air (Images)


Just to add some more info here -

The furnace is not gas, I unfortunatley do not have gas on my street.

The house is a split level and this room is in the basement. Directly above the utility room is a bathroom and above the garage are the bedrooms.

The bathroom will be like a small sectioned off area and the wall of the bathroom is an outside wall - So if bringing fresh air from the outside would be a solution, this is simple.

The furnace does feature return ducts.

Currently, the utility room being undivided and one big room had no source of combustion air - I used to keep the door to the family room open at all times. Since then in the last few weeks, I've been remodelling and I have lessened the size of the utitity room slightly by re-orienting the partition wall between the utility room and family room back about 24" to widen the family room. And I moved the door from the left wall as you walk in, to the end of the side wall where you see it above.

Also, is there a way to tell just how much air needs to be in the room for combustion, I'm wondering if I don't even do the bathroom for a while if I have proper combustion air as presently constituted.
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Old 07-30-2007, 05:57 PM   #20
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Can I do this? - Worried about combustion air (Images)


Also, is there a way to tell just how much air needs to be in the room for combustion, I'm wondering if I don't even do the bathroom for a while if I have proper combustion air as presently constituted.[/quote]


The formula is to have a duct that is sized to have one square inch of free area for every 2000btu's of combustion in the room. If you have an oil furnace look at the nozzle size (1 gph =140,000btu) it will have a gallon per hour rating stamped in the nozzle, which will give you the btu's. I assume the water heater is electric?

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