Burnham boiler T&P gauge

Joe F · 11-24-2008, 12:54 PM

I'm troubleshooting a zone flow prolblem on my hydronic baseboard system and I think that the pressure side of the gauge on my boiler is not reading right. Can the T&P gauge be replaced without draining the boiler? Anyone know where I can find Burnham parts online? Boiler is a standing pilot Series 2 unit about 7 years old.

**beenthere** · 11-24-2008, 05:10 PM

They can be.
Be it takes practice to do it with out making a mess.
System needs to be put into a vacuum.

Can you post pics of your boiler. And the valves.
Then I may be able to tell you how to put it into a vacuum, if you have the right set up.

Joe F · 11-24-2008, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beenthere

They can be.
Be it takes practice to do it with out making a mess.
System needs to be put into a vacuum.

Can you post pics of your boiler. And the valves.
Then I may be able to tell you how to put it into a vacuum, if you have the right set up.

Here's a few pictures. Basically, there are 3 zones. The line out of the boiler splits and goes thru ball valves then to three 3/4" Taco zone valves. The return side has three 3/4" lines that each have a gate valve (for bleeding), then they each pass thru a ball valve, rejoin before the circulator pump and go back to the boiler. If it matters, the pump is on the return side.

**beenthere** · 11-25-2008, 03:02 AM

Yours is easy.
Shut off the boiler, and let it cool.
Close the ball valves on the return and supply lines. Plus the valve for the water feed.
Connect a garden hose to the boiler drain.
Open the drain valve. While the water is draining, pre your new guage(pipe dope the threads).
When water stops running. Quickly remove old guage and insert new guage and tighten.
Do not close drain valve until new guage is installed.
You will hear it pull air in the guage port while changing it out.

Simply refill system after new guage is in. And use the pressure relief valve to remove any air that is in the boiler. Then reopen the ball valves that you closed.

PS: Are you sure you don't just have air in the zone that isn't heating right.

Joe F · 11-25-2008, 07:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beenthere

PS: Are you sure you don't just have air in the zone that isn't heating right.

Thanks for the procedure on the gauge!

I'm 99% sure it's the valve (not air). I'm using a Taco zone control panel and when that zone called for heat, the T-Stat light came on, but the Valve light never did. When I touched the zone valve, it was VERY HOT even with cold pipes. I tried to bleed the system and the flow thru that zone is much less than the other two.

**beenthere** · 11-25-2008, 07:36 AM

Yea, they leak out their capilary fluid, and won't open all the way.
A quick check. Remove the red wire from that zone valve. Manually open it. Turn up another zone.
If that zone gets returns hotter water then it did when it was calling before. The valve is not opening.
The power head is easy to change also.

Joe F · 11-25-2008, 08:36 AM

Even when manually open, the bad zone return only got luke warm. I was hoping that I could get away with just changing the power head, but this test makes me thing theres a problem with the "wet" side of the valve.

**beenthere** · 11-25-2008, 07:07 PM

Although its posible.
Its very unusual, that it causes poor heat. Usually it causes too much heat, because they don't close.

11-24-2008, 12:54 PM	#1
Joe F Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Washington, DC Posts: 265	Burnham boiler T&P gauge I'm troubleshooting a zone flow prolblem on my hydronic baseboard system and I think that the pressure side of the gauge on my boiler is not reading right. Can the T&P gauge be replaced without draining the boiler? Anyone know where I can find Burnham parts online? Boiler is a standing pilot Series 2 unit about 7 years old. __________________ If you don't stand behind our troops, please feel free to stand in front of them.

11-24-2008, 05:10 PM	#2
beenthere An old Tradesmen Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: PA Posts: 19,040	Burnham boiler T&P gauge They can be. Be it takes practice to do it with out making a mess. System needs to be put into a vacuum. Can you post pics of your boiler. And the valves. Then I may be able to tell you how to put it into a vacuum, if you have the right set up.

11-25-2008, 03:02 AM	#4
beenthere An old Tradesmen Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: PA Posts: 19,040	Burnham boiler T&P gauge Yours is easy. Shut off the boiler, and let it cool. Close the ball valves on the return and supply lines. Plus the valve for the water feed. Connect a garden hose to the boiler drain. Open the drain valve. While the water is draining, pre your new guage(pipe dope the threads). When water stops running. Quickly remove old guage and insert new guage and tighten. Do not close drain valve until new guage is installed. You will hear it pull air in the guage port while changing it out. Simply refill system after new guage is in. And use the pressure relief valve to remove any air that is in the boiler. Then reopen the ball valves that you closed. PS: Are you sure you don't just have air in the zone that isn't heating right.

11-25-2008, 07:36 AM	#6
beenthere An old Tradesmen Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: PA Posts: 19,040	Burnham boiler T&P gauge Yea, they leak out their capilary fluid, and won't open all the way. A quick check. Remove the red wire from that zone valve. Manually open it. Turn up another zone. If that zone gets returns hotter water then it did when it was calling before. The valve is not opening. The power head is easy to change also.

11-25-2008, 08:36 AM	#7
Joe F Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Washington, DC Posts: 265	Burnham boiler T&P gauge Even when manually open, the bad zone return only got luke warm. I was hoping that I could get away with just changing the power head, but this test makes me thing theres a problem with the "wet" side of the valve. __________________ If you don't stand behind our troops, please feel free to stand in front of them.

Burnham boiler T&P gauge