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Bryant- Won't Run Through Cycle

5K views 14 replies 3 participants last post by  Houston204 
#1 ·
Hi Glad I found you all, I'll get right too it, I have a Bryant model #
583ANW042090AAAF had been working great till this year, turn on heat inducer kicks on, Ignitor starts sparking kicks in good flame for 3 sec only, then repeats cycle over and over till I shut it down, Led on circuit board steady light=OK? I bypassed thermostat so it's not that, removed Flame sensor sanded reinstalled made sure sensor was in blue part of flame so I don't think it's that?, checked ground with DVOM = OK, 27 volts at brown wire on gas valve, Flame sensor kicks out 18 to 27 millivolts with flame on for 3 sec don't know what it's supposed to be, there is a dark burn spot on the circuit board don't know, Maybe? checked the two limit switches I could find both closed=OK? So alright all you HVAC gods help me out please. Here are some pic maybe it will help?:furious:
 

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#4 ·
Hi, It's high noon here, pulled the burner assembely out, wire brushed down everything it's clean, blew out compartment with compressed air, blew out runner tubes flame goes into, looked:eek: inside it all looks really clean, reassembled fired the old dog up same thing cycles over and over:mad: could there be any thing up with the dark spot on the board??
 
#7 · (Edited)
Looks like yours has some type of induction sensor on the motor instead of a pressure switch from the picture. If it has a pressure switch it will be connected to the inducer assembly by a rubber hose.

I don't know the specifics on your furnace but most will show 2-6 microamps DC with a clean sensor. Most will act real squirrely once the reading gets below 1 microamp. Take the reading with one lead on the sensor spade and the other in the sensor wire end connector.
 
#8 ·
OK I'll try that, Thanks Man, now I know what your talking about with the pressure sensor and no mine does not have that type with the rubber hose it has the hall effect sensor you saw on the back of the inducer motor, guess I better try to check that and see if it's putting out??
 
#9 · (Edited)
While I'm Carrier Tech not Bryant, that looks like their version of the 48GS r22 unit. http://www.docs.hvacpartners.com/idc/groups/public/documents/techlit/48gs,gx-1si.pdf

It should display a trouble code with these symptoms. The fact that it doesn't points to a faulty board, but I would verify that incoming ground has a good connection.

I think that decimal point needs to move over 3 places. That's millionths (uA) of an amp not thousandths (mA).

http://contractingbusiness.com/feature/cb_imp_13002/

"Different manufacturers may call for different minimum signals, but if the sensing circuit is sound, you should get a signal well above their minimums. If the sensing circuit is working properly, it's not uncommon to read a signal between 1 and 10 microamps. "
 
#11 ·
Hi Guys, Houston thanks for the tech sheets = Invaluable, here's what I did, rechecked all ground at board also = OK, checked all connections on circuit board and wiggled all connections just to make sure they have good contact, fired er up and took reading from flame sensor = 2.9 every time, shutdown disconnected power just to clear anything, fired it up ran it for 15 min continuously cycling on and off like tech sheet said at 15 min exactly it shot me the code 5 and went into ignition lockout so board is operating to that extent, resistors at R12 and R15 getting very hot that is were dark spot is, what do you guys think?
 

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#12 · (Edited)
Have you removed any ground connections and sanded the metal, sanded the flame sensor and wire brushed the burner area near the flame sensor?

It's interesting to measure the flame rectification after cleaning some ground connections and watch that microamp reading climb each time.

I had a beeper call a few weeks back. Another tech had just replaced the board and the unit fired up fine for 3 days. My reading was around 3 uA when I started cleaning, and near 10 uA when I finally found the dirty ground connection causing my flame sensor lockout.

You might remove power and inspect the backside of that board, but those hot spots my not be the culprit.
 
#13 ·
Thanks Houston, when I pulled the burner rack earlier I wired brushed whole assembly very well, sanded flame sensor and sanded clean two ground that I had pulled loose for removal of rack, reattached solid, there are two more grounds I can remove and sand so I will do this in the morning, and retest flame sensor for each one, I had removed board and looked at backside could not see any visual signs of break in circuitry, thanks for all the suggestions this has all been a very large help,
 
#14 ·
Hey guys, Houston I removed last two ground sanded connectors and housing metal reinstalled tight, last two were main power in, ground and board ground, took reading from flame sensor still 2.9 it will jump up higher and lower when the flame cycles but the 2.9 is the steady reading, Sooo I don't know?
 
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