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Old 11-16-2011, 04:07 PM   #16
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


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Originally Posted by acrawley View Post
Thanks harleyrider. I checked the filter and it was filthy so I changed it. I also removed the limit switch and the backside of it was covered in dirt. I cleaned it off and re-installed it to see if the furnace would start and sure enough it did. Could it have been as simple as a dirty filter and dirty switch? Or should I make sure and purchase a new limit switch?

In the interest of being correct, a temperature rise should be performed on the furnace. This is a measure of the supply air, and the return air. The difference between the two is your delta T or temperature rise.On the manufactures plate located some were on that furnace it will list the proper temperature rise (such as 55-75) degrees Fahrenheit. if you are in that range then your problem is solved. BTW, a 1 in wide filter, regardless of what it says on the store wrapper should be changed every 30 days.To answer your question about the limit it self......it should be fine if you keep your filter clean.

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acrawley (11-16-2011)
Old 11-16-2011, 04:17 PM   #17
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


I would replace the switch (americanhvacparts.com) and check the airflow thru the unit. underside of ac coil needs to be clean and ductwork clean and all vents and registers in rooms open. once that switch pops open and closed a bunch of times it loses it's accuracy and strength and will fail again. should have a rating on it like 170 degF. Need to get the right Carrier/Bryant one and the length matters as well as the operating temps.
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acrawley (11-16-2011)
Old 11-16-2011, 04:24 PM   #18
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


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Originally Posted by yuri View Post
I would replace the switch (americanhvacparts.com) and check the airflow thru the unit. underside of ac coil needs to be clean and ductwork clean and all vents and registers in rooms open. once that switch pops open and closed a bunch of times it loses it's accuracy and strength and will fail again. should have a rating on it like 170 degF. Need to get the right Carrier/Bryant one and the length matters as well as the operating temps.
Yuri, would you not agree that if the tempature rise is good, most likely the evap is clean?

I do agree that its always a good idea to clean the ducts, and the coil.....and the blower wheel for that matter as well.
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acrawley (11-16-2011)
Old 11-16-2011, 06:35 PM   #19
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


The coil should be visually inspected yearly anyway. Some of those Bryant/Carriers have 170 or 180 deg limits and other brands do too. VERY easy to hit that temp if the coil is a bit dirty and undersized ductwork is also a huge problem. The old days of 200-250 deg limits are gone. When you read 130 downstream it can actually be 150-170 inside the furnace by the heat exchanger.
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Old 11-16-2011, 11:21 PM   #20
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


Thanks everyone for the help and tips!
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Old 10-17-2013, 10:46 AM   #21
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


I think I have the same problem as acrawley. I checked my filter and it was pretty dirty. I changed it out but need to check the limit switch. Can someone point out on the picture above where that is located.
FYI, my furnace is a Bryant 310AAV/JAV.
Thanks, John.
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Old 10-17-2013, 11:25 AM   #22
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


Look behind the gas valve and it will have a red wire on each side. I circled it in green in the photo.
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Old 10-17-2013, 12:45 PM   #23
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


Great, thanks. I'll check when I get home tonight.

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