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Old 11-15-2011, 06:20 PM   #1
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


My furnace stopped working a couple days ago and is flashing code 33 then after a couple minutes starts flashing 13. The day the furnace stopped working was extremely windy so I assume it was a flame rollout issue. I've found 2 sensors (one on each side of the burners) with what looks like a button located in the middle. I've pressed both but there was not clicking like it had reset. Still doesn't start up. Also, the blower runs continuously even when turning off the heat at the thermostat. What else should I be checking?





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Old 11-15-2011, 06:26 PM   #2
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


Could be a tripped spill switch at the base of the flue pipe......the only way to check these is with a ohm meter. a good switch will have continuity through it.the limit/roll out circuit is designated with red wires. TURN OFF THE POWER BEFORE CHECKING THESE SWITCHES.

if YOU FIND THAT ONE IS TRIPPED ITS A SIGN OF A BIGGER AND MUCH MORE SERIOUS ISSSUE..............do not just replace the switch, find out why its open.

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Old 11-15-2011, 06:43 PM   #3
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


The spill switches/rollout switches are in series with the main high temp limit switch which is above the burners. It may be open/shot from poor airflow thru the furnace and constant cycling.
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:32 AM   #4
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


Ok, so I guess I need to go pick up an ohm meter.

Do you think that the extremely high winds would have had anything to do with this?

And what does it mean that the blower constantly runs?

Thanks so much for helping me out on this.
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:55 AM   #5
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


Possible that the high winds didn't allow the hot fumes to exhaust properly so the furnace got extremely hot and tripped a limit, yes. I'd have to assume yes anyways.

A limit (or rollout) tripping cuts all normal control off to a furnace, only allowing the blower to come on to push any excessive heat out, excessive heat being what trippped the switch.
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Old 11-16-2011, 09:04 AM   #6
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


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Originally Posted by Doc Holliday View Post
Possible that the high winds didn't allow the hot fumes to exhaust properly so the furnace got extremely hot and tripped a limit, yes. I'd have to assume yes anyways.

A limit (or rollout) tripping cuts all normal control off to a furnace, only allowing the blower to come on to push any excessive heat out, excessive heat being what trippped the switch.
Thanks.

So do I did to get new switches or how do I reset them? As I said in OP there are 2 sensors on each side of the burners that have a button on them but they don't seem to reset when pressing them.
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Old 11-16-2011, 09:15 AM   #7
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


the limit switch automatically resets when the temperature drops back down to an acceptable range. the manual reset switches that you are talking about are probably the flame rollout switches.

the limit switch looks like a rectangle screwed into the back panel that will have a temp on it like 210 and then another temp for the offset, like 30 or 40.

Last edited by NitroNate; 11-16-2011 at 09:17 AM.
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Old 11-16-2011, 09:18 AM   #8
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


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Thanks.

So do I did to get new switches or how do I reset them? As I said in OP there are 2 sensors on each side of the burners that have a button on them but they don't seem to reset when pressing them.

Those switches are not going to click when you reset them. You'd need an meter to ohm them out or to test continuity through them. More than likely they are reset but those are not the ones that are tripped. Those are flame rollout sensors which act in the exact same manner as a high temperature limit switch only the flame literally is what touches it and heats it up as it "rolls out" of it's compartment. I think those are them anyways.

You can also go to an electronics store and buy some small gator clip jumper wires (set of 10 for $5 over here) and jump (bypass) each switch to find out which one is tripped. Simply pull the two wires off of one switch at a time and connect the gator clip to each wire successfully bypassing the switch and when the furnace finally turns on normally then you replace that switch.

Please do not leave switch bypassed, they are all there for a very good reason. Replace it (some are non resettable) and hook it back up. Your home not burning to the ground will thank you for it.
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Old 11-16-2011, 09:52 AM   #9
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


hey doc.......how do I put a signature on my post automaticly? I cant find it in my profile section ? thanks ahead of time
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Old 11-16-2011, 10:02 AM   #10
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


I'm not certain Hrider, but beenthere is the hvac moderator. I'd ask him or oh'mike or Danger Mouse. All moderators.
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Old 11-16-2011, 10:13 AM   #11
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


I finally found it....thanks
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Old 11-16-2011, 10:22 AM   #12
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


There is no hvac moderator, we all moderate everywhere.

I see you found UserCP though. Good deal.

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Old 11-16-2011, 12:14 PM   #13
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Holliday View Post
Those switches are not going to click when you reset them. You'd need an meter to ohm them out or to test continuity through them. More than likely they are reset but those are not the ones that are tripped. Those are flame rollout sensors which act in the exact same manner as a high temperature limit switch only the flame literally is what touches it and heats it up as it "rolls out" of it's compartment. I think those are them anyways.

You can also go to an electronics store and buy some small gator clip jumper wires (set of 10 for $5 over here) and jump (bypass) each switch to find out which one is tripped. Simply pull the two wires off of one switch at a time and connect the gator clip to each wire successfully bypassing the switch and when the furnace finally turns on normally then you replace that switch.

Please do not leave switch bypassed, they are all there for a very good reason. Replace it (some are non resettable) and hook it back up. Your home not burning to the ground will thank you for it.
Thanks Doc! The switch/sensor located right above the burners is out. I bypassed it and the furnace kicked on.

Now, where do I get one of these sensors? And should I be concerned that this is just a symptom of a bigger problem?
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Old 11-16-2011, 12:33 PM   #14
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


That would be the primary limit, it is a monitor of the air flow through /over the heat exchanger(s). When this limit trips (we pro's call it "open") it means the air flow across the limit in insufficient to carry away all the heat being made, and the furnace has reached a unsafe operating temperature, the main control board will stop the burner operation and initiate the blower operation on high. burner operation will not be allowed again until the limit closes again.

Most probable cause of this (and most common as well) is a dirty filter, and/or evaporator coil that is plugged.

Last edited by harleyrider; 11-16-2011 at 12:35 PM.
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Old 11-16-2011, 03:19 PM   #15
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Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33


Quote:
Originally Posted by harleyrider View Post
That would be the primary limit, it is a monitor of the air flow through /over the heat exchanger(s). When this limit trips (we pro's call it "open") it means the air flow across the limit in insufficient to carry away all the heat being made, and the furnace has reached a unsafe operating temperature, the main control board will stop the burner operation and initiate the blower operation on high. burner operation will not be allowed again until the limit closes again.

Most probable cause of this (and most common as well) is a dirty filter, and/or evaporator coil that is plugged.
Thanks harleyrider. I checked the filter and it was filthy so I changed it. I also removed the limit switch and the backside of it was covered in dirt. I cleaned it off and re-installed it to see if the furnace would start and sure enough it did. Could it have been as simple as a dirty filter and dirty switch? Or should I make sure and purchase a new limit switch?

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