bryant gas furnace burner wont stay on. - Page 2 - DIY Chatroom

pipebender · 11-06-2009, 11:11 PM

heres-two

pipebender · 11-06-2009, 11:19 PM

and-heres-3

pipebender · 11-06-2009, 11:23 PM

electric company put this in so they can control stuff.

Houston204 · 11-06-2009, 11:28 PM

Can you see the inlet side (bottom) of your vertical coil?

pipebender · 11-06-2009, 11:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Houston204

Can you see the inlet side (bottom) of your vertical coil?

how can i see? from downby the blower? i tOOK off the panel on top for ac coil and its clean.

Houston204 · 11-06-2009, 11:52 PM

The triangular panel in the center of your A coil will allow viewing of your inlet side.

Removing the blower and snapping some pictures through the heat exchanger would be less likely to cause a refrigerant leak if the A coil center panel is blocked by too many feeder tubes.

yuri · 11-07-2009, 10:25 AM

Check the rating sticker in the furnace. Should tell you a recommended temp rise thru the unit. Ie 40-80 degF. Do a temp rise test. Check the supply temp a foot downstream from the plenum and subtract it from the return temp. That black box is a combo fan/limit control made by camstat and fail a lot when old. I would not swap the other one from your other furnace as it is so old and brittle it will probably fail and then you will need to buy 2 of them. Should still be available (Johnstones/Grainger)?. Check the coil for blockage if you can. SERIOUSLY, you need 2 NEW CO detectors for your house as the heat exchanger is NOT in good shape and may be cracked. One for your bedroom, the other in a stairwell going upstairs from the basement.

mrairflow · 11-07-2009, 10:49 AM

i would recommend you call somebody that knows what they are doing to check that furnace ,i have found many of them with the heat exchanger rusted out. also do you have to add freon to that system as it looks like oil on the bottom of the a coil . the part of the coil you are seeing is not the side that gets dirty it is the side you dont see try lifting up on the coil and look at the heat exchanger look for holes also look inside the coil with a mirror see if it is clogged

Marty S. · 11-07-2009, 10:58 AM

Easiest DIY heat exchanger check on that furnace is
1) turn off the power
2]remove the blower,camstat and burners
3) look inside the heat exchanger with a bright flashlight for cracks or excessive rust
4) wet down the outside of the heat exchanger from the blower compartment on up with water.
5) look inside the heat exchanger again with the light

Any cracks or rust holes will show up as damp spot that was not there on the first visual inspection. Cracks usually happen along the back of the heat exchanger and near bends. There's no middle ground here, it leaks or it doesn't.

pipebender · 11-07-2009, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yuri

Check the rating sticker in the furnace. Should tell you a recommended temp rise thru the unit. Ie 40-80 degF. Do a temp rise test. Check the supply temp a foot downstream from the plenum and subtract it from the return temp. That black box is a combo fan/limit control made by camstat and fail a lot when old. I would not swap the other one from your other furnace as it is so old and brittle it will probably fail and then you will need to buy 2 of them. Should still be available (Johnstones/Grainger)?. Check the coil for blockage if you can. SERIOUSLY, you need 2 NEW CO detectors for your house as the heat exchanger is NOT in good shape and may be cracked. One for your bedroom, the other in a stairwell going upstairs from the basement.

ok im going to try the temp rise test. i got a infrared thermo to use. i looked on grainger and i see one similiar. does this problem sound like a fan/limit switch? should i just order one? i got 3 co detectors in the house one is the basment one at the top of the steps and on by my kitchen cause i got a gas stove. if the heat exchanger is cracked would i still be getting a real nice blue burner flame? so my problem sounds like it had nothing to do with my fancy thermostat controller?

pipebender · 11-07-2009, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrairflow

i would recommend you call somebody that knows what they are doing to check that furnace ,i have found many of them with the heat exchanger rusted out. also do you have to add freon to that system as it looks like oil on the bottom of the a coil . the part of the coil you are seeing is not the side that gets dirty it is the side you dont see try lifting up on the coil and look at the heat exchanger look for holes also look inside the coil with a mirror see if it is clogged

i have not put freon on that side of the units in 16 years. im going to take the blower out and the a/c coil access cover to get a better look again.

pipebender · 11-07-2009, 11:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marty S.

Easiest DIY heat exchanger check on that furnace is
1) turn off the power
2]remove the blower,camstat and burners
3) look inside the heat exchanger with a bright flashlight for cracks or excessive rust
4) wet down the outside of the heat exchanger from the blower compartment on up with water.
5) look inside the heat exchanger again with the light

Any cracks or rust holes will show up as damp spot that was not there on the first visual inspection. Cracks usually happen along the back of the heat exchanger and near bends. There's no middle ground here, it leaks or it doesn't.

im going to give that a try.

THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE FOR ALL YOUR HELP!

yuri · 11-07-2009, 12:28 PM

The color of the flame won`t tell you if it is cracked. I would CAREFULLY inspect the heat exchanger B4 spending any $$ on repairs. The fancy controller looks like a load shedder to allow them to shutoff your AC in peak times and give you a lower $rate. Those camstats, fan controls fail a lot in old age. You need a cooking or stick type thermometer to insert into the airstream of the duct.

Good Luck

pipebender · 11-08-2009, 08:58 PM

welly welly well!!!!!

i changed out the fan limt switch from my other unit and it fired right up!!! so far so good. sucks for my tenants but im a slumlord...... lol i already told them the deal. thanks for everyone trying to help me. after looking at the wiring schematic i found on the net. i started measuring out points with my multimeter and comparing them to my other unit both calling for heat. i found the power stoped at the fan switch. this sucker lasted for a long time good lord. date stamp on it was 12/73 camstat 01-0584a stamped on the side. it dont even look up on there cross reference at camstats website i gotta call. looks like they aint based in cali anymore either cause stamped in mine says los angeles ca now they in chatem il. is there any way i can rebuild this switch or jus buy a new one? CHEERS!!!!

yuri · 11-08-2009, 09:41 PM

Buy a new one, not rebuildable or SAFE to do so.