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Old 08-14-2011, 05:30 PM   #31
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Breaker pops on Lennox HS24-651-1P


Sounds like the compressor is stuck.

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Old 08-14-2011, 05:45 PM   #32
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Breaker pops on Lennox HS24-651-1P


One of the windings is shunted. Time for a new compressor.
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Old 08-14-2011, 08:53 PM   #33
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Breaker pops on Lennox HS24-651-1P


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One of the windings is shunted. Time for a new compressor.

I am tight with a nickel but convinced that the compressor is a lost cause. I think I could just have the actual compressor replaced but that given the age of the outside unit I am better off getting an entire new outside unit (compressor motor, coils, capacitors, cabinet, fan and all that stuff).

What should I look for? I believe it is a 10 SEER unit. Can I replace it with a 13 SEER and if I do will their have to be modifications to the upstairs unit or is that a crock that salesman spew? It is a two story stucco house in So Cal with cathedral ceilings in the living room that measures about 2250 square feet. Is it possible to get a unit that drops in place on the same pad and essentially hooks up to the existing coolant line and control? Would it be a good idea to have all the old coolant removed and replaced if there is any. I think it was last charged 15 years ago which may be the cause of the old thing's demise. Does it have to be a Lennox or should any brand work. It is a 4.5 ton unit.

I imagine noise is also a big factor. Can you suggest a good read on how to select a system and contractor?

Anyway, thank you all very much for trying to help me salvage this one.
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Old 08-14-2011, 10:01 PM   #34
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Breaker pops on Lennox HS24-651-1P


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Sounds like the compressor is stuck.
I was wondering if that was a possibility, but if it was frozen wouldn't there be a hum as the comprssor tried to break loose and would that cause a breaker to immediately open?
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Old 08-14-2011, 10:50 PM   #35
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Breaker pops on Lennox HS24-651-1P


If you are replacing the outdoor unit you will likely have to replace the coil in the AHU and the piping as well. You will likely be able to use your existing wiring/control. Likely the new unit can sit on the same pad as your old one.

Your old system ran on R-22 refrigerant. The new units use R-410a. The oils used for the 2 refrigerants are different, so best to change the lines set to eliminate the chance of contamination. If that is a BIG problem to do then there are flushing agents that can be used to clean the old lines and re-use, but I don't personally like that option as well as a new line set.

Everyone has a brand that they like, and others they don't, so you will have to decide what makes the most sense to you. I would be looking for the best contractor who would do the best install, (and hopefully the best service down the road) and not necessarily the brand name. I would look for brands that are readily recognized and respected, as they often have warranties that are easy to deal with down the road if there should be an issue.
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Old 08-14-2011, 11:54 PM   #36
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Breaker pops on Lennox HS24-651-1P


Thanks HVACDave. If those expenses need to be incurred it is better off knowing now. I had heard that cross contamination between the old and new fluids could be a big problem. One thing for sure it's no DIY job.
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Old 08-15-2011, 03:22 AM   #37
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Breaker pops on Lennox HS24-651-1P


Putting a 13 SEER condenser on a made for 10 SEER evap coil lowers capacity of the 13 SEER condenser. A new evap coil can often be fitted into the old air handler. Not always though.

If your current line set is installed in a manor that makes running a new line set cost, or logistically prohibitive to replace. A good flushing/purging with nitrogen will remove the old oil from it.

But a new line set is the preferred method.
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Old 08-15-2011, 11:14 AM   #38
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Breaker pops on Lennox HS24-651-1P


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Putting a 13 SEER condenser on a made for 10 SEER evap coil lowers capacity of the 13 SEER condenser. A new evap coil can often be fitted into the old air handler. Not always though.

If your current line set is installed in a manor that makes running a new line set cost, or logistically prohibitive to replace. A good flushing/purging with nitrogen will remove the old oil from it.

But a new line set is the preferred method.
That is good to know; both. The concern with replacing the line is how many holes need to be opened in the walls. The last time a plumber rerouted some lines the idiot notched a load bearing joist instead of coring it.
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Old 08-17-2011, 08:49 PM   #39
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Breaker pops on Lennox HS24-651-1P


I have had one contractor out and learned that if we are going to replace the lines he runs them down the outside of the house through a rain gutter down spout. He can flush with nirtrogen but like benthere prefers going with new linew. At least I don't have to worry about holes in the drywall and getting them patched and painted.
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Old 08-17-2011, 09:29 PM   #40
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Breaker pops on Lennox HS24-651-1P


Glad you found someone that knows how to work with a customer, and provide what you want in a proper manor.
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Old 08-25-2011, 01:33 AM   #41
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Breaker pops on Lennox HS24-651-1P


Quick update not for the pros here, but other DIYers that may read this. I am about done interviewing local servicemen and the one guy I will probably hire pointed out to me that the plastic cap over the compressor terminal had been malformed by heat. BTW, he isn't the cheapest bidder but I think he will do a good job of things. Lastly, I may have to settle for a smaller AC (13 SEER) but we don't use the air that much and I will likely quit screwing around and go with a new heater and blower, and will cought the money up for a 10 year parts and labor manufacturer's extended warranty.


Last edited by Klawman; 08-25-2011 at 01:37 AM.
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