DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (http://www.diychatroom.com/)
-   HVAC (http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/)
-   -   Boiler won't fire up (http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/boiler-wont-fire-up-159167/)

Estanli 10-06-2012 01:25 PM

Boiler won't fire up
 
I have a Utica hot water boiler that fires up then stops after about a minute. The pilot remains lit but the boiler stops. A little history...I drained the system because I replaced a valve on a radiator on the 2nd for with a(2 flat boiler in the basement) thermostatic valve.


I turned on the water to refill the system, attempted to bleed the rads beginning with the 2nd floor then the 1st. Noticed no air seeping out of any except the one where I replace the TRV.

Nor did water come out of any of the air valves.
The water remain on all night no heat figuring the water bas not filled the system completely i allowed it to do so. This morning I emptied the expansion tank, refilled it and repeated the process of firing up the boiler. It came on then after a minute shut off. All valves are open on the boiler I can hear the circulating pump. The pipe below is hot above is warm. I'll enclose a pic.....what to do?

carmon 10-06-2012 02:02 PM

sounds like no flow.....

how 10-06-2012 02:13 PM

We need you tridicator readings of PSI and temp.
How many thermostats do you have in your home?
also
Did you mean that when you bleed the top floor rads, neither air or water came out?

carmon 10-06-2012 02:41 PM

if no air or water came out you have a problem ..... it must be full of air open the bleeders again .....

biggles 10-06-2012 02:46 PM

jump R to W on the stat the temp limit is the cycle there then if the circ pump is running from a stat call

how 10-06-2012 03:10 PM

Whatever other problems he might have, no air or water from the rad bleed valves means insufficient water pressure in the boiler. That alone usually causes exactly what he's describing. He also says he can hear his pump operating so a consistant call for heat is likely.

If his boiler pressure guage confirms this, then a manual opening of his pressure reducing valve should bring up his pressure enough to be able to fill the upper rads again and be able to bleed proof them.

Estanli 10-06-2012 03:26 PM

Boiler won't fire up
 
Yes the PSI reading looks like 8. No water flow? Temp is 140 w per off. No air or water in rads at least nothing when I bled them on 1st or 2nd flr. U can here noise within the first floor pipes but nothing comes out.

Estanli 10-06-2012 03:38 PM

Tried lifting the lever on pressure reducing valve nothing happened. Lifted it to 12:00 position, nothing. Should I have heard water flowing through the pipes?
The unit had been shut down for the summer so I didn't notice the reading

how 10-06-2012 03:38 PM

When you drained the boiler before, do you remember the psi guage dropping as well? There is always the chance that your pressure quage isn't working but your boiler is acting as if is.

Turn off the power to your boiler.
Do you have a handle on your pressure reducing valve that you can lift that causes the sound of running water in your pipes. Lift that and bring your pressure up to 20 PSI. Watch the guage to establish this. Anything over 30 PSI will cause your boiler releif valve to vent.

When it says 20psi, stop your manual filling and bleed all the air from all your rads. Turn boiler back on & report.

how 10-06-2012 03:41 PM

Sorry ..slow typer.

If you lifted up that handle and didn't hear the sound of running water then either that valve is missing it's internal activater rod (sometimes gets misplaced by someone adjusting the PV) or you don't have your supply valve to the boiler open.

You are not on well water, are you?

Estanli 10-06-2012 03:51 PM

No worries I appreciate your help...no I'm in the city. Thinking that the PV is bad. Should the lever go from one end the other.. From 9:00 to 3:00 position?

Estanli 10-06-2012 03:52 PM

Valves are open

how 10-06-2012 04:06 PM

You can post a photo or valve brand but most activate with just an inch of arm end travel. It depends on how they've be set up. If someone has adjusted it low enough, (8PSI) it might not manually activate at all. If it doesn't cause the sound of running water (when the inlet side has more pressure than the outlet side) when the handle is 45 degrees from where you found it, it's either miss adjusted, missing an activating rod or broken.

Estanli 10-07-2012 06:09 PM

Thanks for all your help. The problem was the PRV was clogged. As u suspected it prevented the water flow needed to raise the PSI to its proper level in the boiler. I replaced it (happened to have one from the last renovation where it was not used (had it been used then I would not have had this problem as the galvanized pipe that was clogged with junk would have replaced by copper. They stopped after the shut off and joined copper to galvanized at the PRV). Boy did the water flow :). Bled the rads, PSI where it should and tenants were happy.....Thanks guys. Great site with very knowledgable talent!


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:27 AM.


Copyright 2003-2014 Escalate Media LP. All Rights Reserved