Boiler Question - HVAC - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > HVAC

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-11-2011, 06:26 PM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 6
Rewards Points: 10
Question

Boiler question


This one is new to me.. my system has 3 zones I went to fire up the heat and about an hour and a half later I wonder why my heat was still not coming up..

I went to the boiler and I see which must of been a pressure release valve that opened on the top of the boiler it was a small steady stream of hot enough water where steam was coming from it.. However the boiler temp was only maybe about 165 F or so.. And the odd thing was the pipes with the zone controls felt pretty warm.

Bad pump perhaps? It's just odd because I went back inside and checked and it's a two pipe direct feed but only the lower pipe was around 130 F and the top was only about 70 F or so.

Advertisement

mikecl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2011, 06:34 PM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: pa
Posts: 4,646
Rewards Points: 2,606
Default

Boiler question


you may want to check expanison tank ,sounds like its full which causes the pressure on boiler to rise above 30psi which opens relief valve....was system serviced for winter....should have been? ben

Advertisement

ben's plumbing is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to ben's plumbing For This Useful Post:
plummen (12-11-2011)
Old 12-11-2011, 06:52 PM   #3
Member
 
biggles's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Long Island
Posts: 3,630
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

Boiler question


relief dripping or not that 165F should of been going up into the zones all three calling and you had some drop even that 130/70 return temp 60F was going someplace..and steam out of the relief your boiler controller should of shut the burner off at 170F reading that...cycle your temperature control within the boiler make sure it stops the burner and starts it at somewhere near the temp guage....165F steam is 212F do you have an auto feed for water to the boiler.....and what was the actual pressure reading on that pressure guage with the relief steaming out
biggles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2011, 07:11 PM   #4
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 6
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Boiler question


Quote:
Originally Posted by biggles View Post
relief dripping or not that 165F should of been going up into the zones all three calling and you had some drop even that 130/70 return temp 60F was going someplace..and steam out of the relief your boiler controller should of shut the burner off at 170F reading that...cycle your temperature control within the boiler make sure it stops the burner and starts it at somewhere near the temp guage....165F steam is 212F do you have an auto feed for water to the boiler.....and what was the actual pressure reading on that pressure guage with the relief steaming out

my memory is fuzzy but I think it was around 20 PSI.. It has the older setup where the expansion tank is above the system.
mikecl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2011, 07:50 PM   #5
Member
 
biggles's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Long Island
Posts: 3,630
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

Boiler question


you shouldn't have room at the top of the boiler to make steam with the circ pump pulling from the zones on that return back to the boiler. the supply water out is on top of the boiler....steam is keeping the water in the boiler...guessing where is your temperature limit did you cycle it with the stat calling for heat and what is the temperature on the boiler with the cycling go above and below the readable temp right on the boiler....higher gas on below temp burner off circualtor is the stat calling heat will always run on a heat call
biggles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2011, 10:37 PM   #6
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 6
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Boiler question


well I did not cycle the stat since it was already on for call of heat the temp when i turned it on was like 56 F after about an hour or so it was like 160-170ish
mikecl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2011, 10:18 PM   #7
Newbie
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 1
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Boiler question


My steam boiler has worked great for 8 years. Now the week before I sell my house it stopped working. The pilot is lit, but the burners will not ignite. Any ideas?
Jsmalls is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2011, 10:47 PM   #8
REP
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 615
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Boiler question


Now if I had to guess which is all any of us can do I would guess you have several problems.
What you need to do is shut the boiler off.Check your expansion tank.If its the old style it may be full and needs draining.
Next look at the tempature pressure gauge.Wait an hour or more then check it again to make sure it is gettingt cooler.
Next go to the valve that lets water into the boiler.Not the bell shaped thing that regulates the inlet pressure but the one that water into that valve.
make sure that valve uis open,it sounds like it is but check.Now look at the temopature pressure valve.It should be 12 pounds or close to that.If it is then shut that valve you just checked off now.
Next start the boiler back on.After about 15 minutes check the pipe that the circulator is on.Here is where we should be there because some boilers are piped so trhat the pump pumps into the boiler aqnd on others its piped tp pump out to the house.You have to deteminbe if the circulator is actually pumping water.
You do this by feeling or measureing the pipe going out to the house.It should be warmer than the return water going into the bottom half of the boiler.
Now here is where you will find out just whatr is going on.If you can do it yourself great if not you will have to call not just a heating guy.but a heating guy that works on a lot of boilers.If you call someone then you are about to find out why guys like me charge you maybe a hundred dollars more to inatsll a boiler.The extra is for shut off valves every place there is a component that is in the watewr system and needs to be replaced.
I have had more than my share of night calls especially where it took me two hours to fix the problem but the takes an extra 4-5 hours to drain the boiler then fill and bleed the system .I charged by the hour you see and I didn't care to lose a nights sleep because someopne went cheap on the install.
Good luck

Advertisement

REP is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Boiler water feed and aquastat question timothy918 HVAC 4 01-29-2011 08:24 PM
Boiler gas valve question timothy918 HVAC 2 01-24-2011 09:21 PM
Burnham boiler banging/thumping noises quadradeuce HVAC 6 10-02-2010 10:55 PM
Power Vent Question for Propane Boiler Moondaddie HVAC 4 12-23-2009 08:12 PM
Ring Main Question Andyjr Electrical 5 09-14-2008 10:47 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts