My personal thoughts on fiberglass insulation:
it is not effective with air gaps between the insulation and the heat source----
http://oikos.com/esb/38/floorinsulation.html
it cannot have air washing against it from the cold side to negate the R-value:
http://www.simplesavings.coop/simple...ee%20walls.pdf
it is stated: “
Does inset stapling affect the R-value?
Inset stapling leaves a small triangular air space next to the stud and wall covering. Tests
have shown that the combination of the air space and the insulation beneath it provide the
same R-value as the rest of the fiber glass batt.” From--
http://www.insulating-products.com/p...lation_FAQ.pdf
Yet to me that sounds untrue. I reason with this and common sense about the convective loop and compression:
http://oikos.com/library/insulating_...lls/index.html
No air gaps, no inset staples, no floor/ceiling gaps, but a perfect, professional installation harder for a DIY’er to achieve or a loss of product’s R-value:
http://oikos.com/library/insulating_...lls/index.html
In an attic, fiberglass is a poor choice because it is
exposed to outside air for roof venting. Add to that, air escaping from the heated living space below, the ice dams and other problems (mold) resulting from not air sealing, another insulation would be a better choice. Be sure to air seal the attic or you will just be filtering the moving air from below:
http://www.rd.com/how-to-seal-attic-...icle18158.html Use extra thickness to counter the wind-washing effect present, even surpassing the cost/quality guidelines:
http://www.enersavesystems.com/pdf/E...Insulation.pdf
Be safe, Gary
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Clothes taking longer to dry?
Clean the dryer screen in HOT water if using fabric softener sheets.
They leave a residue that impedes air-flow, costing you money.
Clean the ducting in the last six months? 17,000 dryer fires annually!
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