DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (http://www.diychatroom.com/)
-   HVAC (http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/)
-   -   Blower motor not kicking on??? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/blower-motor-not-kicking-68717/)

walds11 04-10-2010 07:00 AM

Blower motor not kicking on???
 
I had my central AC on for most of the week due to the warm weather. It cooled down a bit, so I turned the heat on my thermostat this morning. The furnace kicks on, but then kicks off after about 30 seconds. I hear a click and then nothing. The blower is not turning on. It did that a few times so far this morning. The pilot is on. What's wrong? It was working fine before I turned on the AC earlier in the week. Help!

walds11 04-10-2010 07:15 AM

Update: I switched thermostat from auto to fan on and it's working. What now?

yuri 04-10-2010 09:53 AM

Post the brand, model and serial # and pics of it and the circuit board so we know what we are working with.

walds11 04-10-2010 10:44 AM

York Model #PUUGD20N10501A, Serial #EGYM089448.

It's working now. Go figure.

yuri 04-10-2010 11:07 AM

Intermittent problem. The absolute worst for a tech.:mad::yes:

walds11 04-10-2010 11:14 AM

Oh well. Tech should be out soon to do seasonal maintenance on the AC, so I will mention it to him then.

Quote:

Originally Posted by yuri (Post 426686)
Intermittent problem. The absolute worst for a tech.:mad::yes:


yuri 04-10-2010 11:18 AM

What type of thermostat do you have? If it is older or cheap electronic type you may want to replace it with a better Honeywell Focus or Vision Pro from HDepot. After 10 yrs electronic stats can fail even the better ones.

walds11 04-10-2010 12:10 PM

The thermostat is as old as the HVAC system. Not sure which model, but it is a Honeywell. It's round and you spin the thermostat dial around and there are 2 switches...cool/off/heat and fan on/auto.

Quote:

Originally Posted by yuri (Post 426692)
What type of thermostat do you have? If it is older or cheap electronic type you may want to replace it with a better Honeywell Focus or Vision Pro from HDepot. After 10 yrs electronic stats can fail even the better ones.


yuri 04-10-2010 12:57 PM

It is an old mercury style T87F and on its best day was plus/minus (+-) 2-3 degF in accuracy. Worse now that the mercury is hardening up. The switches in the subbase get oxidized and I would get it replaced and it will save you $$ and be more comfortable.:thumbsup:

walds11 04-10-2010 01:00 PM

Thanks for the advice. I plan on replacing the entire HVAC system within the next few years if it makes it. You suggest that I replace the thermostat now?

yuri 04-10-2010 01:05 PM

Looking at your serial # it may be a 1989 model or 1994. 21 or 16 yrs old. If it is either then the circuit board may be failing and either way it could turn into a money $$ pit with repairs. Average life of a board is 10+ yrs so you may need to start spending serious $$ soon. I would check what rebates are available for more efficient units and you may want to do it sooner than later. The tstat is inaccurate but not necessarily the problem, I would suspect the board. At that age the tstat may been sending a poor signal to the board because of the contacts in the subbase so I would replace it.

walds11 04-10-2010 01:20 PM

The house was built in 1991 and it's the original HVAC system. I may replace it this fall to take advantage of the rebates. The IRS tax rebate expires at the end of 2010. My utility company also offers rebates.

My house is a 2 story colonial, about 3,000 sq ft. There are two thermostats, one downstairs and one upstairs. The one downstairs controls the heat and the one upstairs controls the AC. Someone told me that is a "cheap" way to heat and cool a house. There is always about a 4-6 degree difference between the two thermostats. The upstairs is naturally warmer in the summer and vice versa. Should the new HVAC system be set-up the same way? Another way?

yuri 04-10-2010 01:40 PM

Unit was made in late 1989, sat in a box and was installed when your house was built. There is NO "cheap" way to heat or cool anything. LOL. :no:
Energy cannot be created or destroyed, first law of thermodynamics. And it costs $$ to buy. Hot air rises and cold air settles so it will be warmer upstairs. I would get a heat load/loss calculation done:Load Calculator
to make sure you get the right sized equipment and 3 or more quotes from long term reputable dealers. A furnace with an ECM motor will save you lots of energy and I would run it continuosly for air circulation and to even out the temp swings. My bud Beenthere is from PA and can give you lots of useful advice. Hang in there

Marty S. 04-10-2010 02:05 PM

Call your utility company and find out how long the rebates run. Right now ours is offering $500 per ton on high SEER equiptment. They put a million in the fund expecting it to last all year and after 9 weeks half is used up already. Between that , the tax credit and mfr rebates customers are saving $4000 on average. If you're thinking about replacing it in the near future don't wait untill the mfr rebates and utility refunds are over.

yuri 04-10-2010 02:19 PM

Good Point!! Same thing happened in Canada. Fed Gov't ended the popular EcoEnergy grant early when the $$ ran out.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:28 AM.