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Old 01-01-2007, 02:36 PM   #16
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Bleeding my heating system 1-2-3


Hi bwoo

The expansion tank will be attached at some point to the boiler. It should be roughly 24" x 12" and will have either a 1/2" or 3/4" nipple on one end and a valve core on the other.

Rusty

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Old 01-02-2007, 05:30 AM   #17
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Bleeding my heating system 1-2-3


yes, zone 4 is the problem zone
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Old 01-02-2007, 05:34 AM   #18
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Bleeding my heating system 1-2-3


the original "complaint" was actually just a general inquiry as to the best way of bleeding a hydronic system. It has now developed into a question about why zone 4 is not working properly.

in zone 4 specifically, right at the air handler, i can feel a very very hot supply line. the hot water then goes through a series of i think they're called "coils", and on the return side, it is luke warm. i'm wondering if you know what might be causing this.

i have always been advised in the past, that if anything doesn't work properly, bleed the system, but the system has been bled a lot and the zone 4 problem has not changed!

b
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Old 01-02-2007, 08:17 AM   #19
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Bleeding my heating system 1-2-3


I did see on your diagram that zone 4 had a pump most likely this pump is not working. With this said I would check the pump for power and go from there.
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Old 01-02-2007, 09:42 AM   #20
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Bleeding my heating system 1-2-3


the zone 4 pump is working. there is a switch on it, and i've turned it off and on and i can hear water stop and start...
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Old 01-02-2007, 01:23 PM   #21
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Bleeding my heating system 1-2-3


Hi bwoo

It sounds like you may have a valve sticking in zone #4 or one of the actuator motors is bad. If you look on top of the valve you will generally see a white pod with two wires coming out of it. This is your actuator motor. On the bottom of the motor will be a brass ring with diamond shaped bumps on it. Grab this ring and turn it counter clockwise carefully. Once you have the motor unscrewed, lay it to the side. The stem you should see sticking up once you remove the motor is the valve actuator pin. Take some light oil like sewing machine oil and drip around this shaft. Take a flat screwdriver and press the pin up and down carefully and work the oil into it. Reinstall the motor section and see if it works. If not you may need new motor, but you will need to do some voltage testing before you determine motor is bad.

Good luck
Rusty
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Old 01-02-2007, 02:03 PM   #22
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Bleeding my heating system 1-2-3


#CARRIERMAN,

The zone 4 "motor" is a circulator on the supply side. there is a ball valve just before the circulator, then there is a tap/faucet to bleed that area, with a device that allows steam to blow out the top (don't know what it's called), then another ball valve and then it goes into the air handler.. on the way out, there is another ball valve there.

i just can't understand why the supply would be blisteringly hot, and the return luke warm!
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Old 01-02-2007, 02:06 PM   #23
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Bleeding my heating system 1-2-3


great call carierman I would also see if there is a bleeder buy the coil incase it is air locked.
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Old 01-02-2007, 02:12 PM   #24
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Bleeding my heating system 1-2-3


Hi bwoo

Take a look at what trollmaster suggested. You may also have a bad pump. I wasnt quite sure how your system was set up. It sounds like they are using Taco cartridge pumps. These are tough little pumps, and are easy to rebuild. Armstrong and the other maufacturers are very similar. Let us know if we can help further.

Rusty
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Old 01-02-2007, 02:27 PM   #25
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Bleeding my heating system 1-2-3


Quote:
Originally Posted by #CARRIERMAN View Post
Hi bwoo

Take a look at what trollmaster suggested. You may also have a bad pump. I wasnt quite sure how your system was set up. It sounds like they are using Taco cartridge pumps. These are tough little pumps, and are easy to rebuild. Armstrong and the other maufacturers are very similar. Let us know if we can help further.

Rusty

Rember just because it feels like the motor is on doesnt mean it is circulating, but definitly make sure zone valve is opening first.
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Old 01-02-2007, 02:49 PM   #26
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Bleeding my heating system 1-2-3


OK.. i'll check again.. what I did to try and test the pump was actually turn the pump off, and waited a few minutes and turned it back on... i heard water moving at that point.. also, on either side of the circulator, the water is hot.. it's only after it comes out of the air handler that it is luke warm (sorry i can't give more info)

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