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Old 02-02-2010, 11:15 AM   #16
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Auxiliary in-line fans to help deliver heat to remote areas.


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It should increase.
If it increases, doesn't that suggest that I don't have enough return duct/grate?

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Old 02-02-2010, 02:11 PM   #17
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Auxiliary in-line fans to help deliver heat to remote areas.


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If it increases, doesn't that suggest that I don't have enough return duct/grate?
Pretty much so.

What size is your furnace?
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Old 02-02-2010, 06:43 PM   #18
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Pretty much so.

What size is your furnace?
The furnace is a wood burner. I also have a back-up oil furnace. The wood burner, which is used 98% of the time, is a Clayton 7.1 and good for 2500 sq. ft. We have about 2200 feet, part of which is the basement and heated indirectly by the Clayton.

But it's the air temps at the registers in the addition that are 10 -20 degrees less than the rest of the house, thus the new rooms are cooler by an average of 10 degrees. Believe me, I've taken the temps under varying outside temps and using smoldering or blazing fires. They remain constantly lower by those degrees. We're going to wrap the new ducts under the old house as are the new ducts under the addition, tomorrow. We'll also test that draft.
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Old 02-02-2010, 10:25 PM   #19
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Auxiliary in-line fans to help deliver heat to remote areas.


Ok. What CFM is the wood stove/furnace suppose to be able to move?

But sounds like under sized supply, and or not enough return.
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Old 02-03-2010, 10:53 AM   #20
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Auxiliary in-line fans to help deliver heat to remote areas.


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Ok. What CFM is the wood stove/furnace suppose to be able to move?

But sounds like under sized supply, and or not enough return.

The Clayton is max 150,000 BTU's. DK the cfs.
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Old 02-03-2010, 12:55 PM   #21
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Auxiliary in-line fans to help deliver heat to remote areas.


Removing the panel off the plentum didn't seem to make much, if any, difference regarding the airflow at the supply registers. We insulated the ducts under the old house but I haven't checked the temps at the registers yet. I sort of assume there won't be much difference from what they were.
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:06 PM   #22
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Auxiliary in-line fans to help deliver heat to remote areas.


What is the HP of the blower motor?



PS: Where does the wood stove gets its combustion air from?
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Old 02-03-2010, 04:24 PM   #23
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Auxiliary in-line fans to help deliver heat to remote areas.


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What is the HP of the blower motor?



PS: Where does the wood stove gets its combustion air from?

The manual sez its 1/3 hp. The in-line fan I'm suggestig and asking about, may be just what's needed to help move all that air around.

The Clayton draws its combustion from the basement. I have an outside vent that draws about 10% of fresh air into the ventilation system.

After insulating the duct under the old structure, the temps at the new registers rose from 1 - 5 degrees, but sadly wasnt enough to impact the room temps, which remain hovering just under 60 while the rest of the house is about 72.
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Old 02-03-2010, 04:33 PM   #24
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Auxiliary in-line fans to help deliver heat to remote areas.


You can install those inline fans. With your current set up. They will steal air form other supplies.

The air flow didn't increase much with the door off you said. But. if the air flow increased by 15 CFM per supply. Then it increased total air flow by 75CFM.

keep in mind. that air flow was increased to the other supplies also. Meaning your total air flow increase could have been 200 to 300 CFM.
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Old 02-04-2010, 10:12 AM   #25
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Auxiliary in-line fans to help deliver heat to remote areas.


Wait a minute Ben... what about resetting the limits for the fan?

They've been set at 100off - 115on. This means the fan only runs about 10 - 25 seconds, depending on the blaze. Its cycles quite often at these settings. Wouldn't this gives the air in the duct too much time to cool?

I've just reset those limits to 90 - 120 and the registers throughout the house are now about the same temp, that being 88 - 91. Could this be the answer? The temp in the addition was 56 this a.m. and within twenty minutes has risen to a whopping 62... well, at least that's an improvement. We'll see where it goes.

What would be a good temp for the air coming from the registers to be, now matter the outside temp?
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Old 02-04-2010, 01:09 PM   #26
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Ah, the fan short cycling like that is a definite problem, cause of uneven heating for the far rooms.

Min air temp. Is that which still contains enough BTUs of heat to heat the rooms at outdoor design temp.

In other words. No way for me to tell you a absolute min temp.
Keeping your fire slightly higher then you use to before the new heat runs will be a good thing.

A supply at 90F moving 120 CFM is suppling the same amount of heat as a supply moving 80CFM at 100F.

If you let the air temp 90F, doubtful it will be enough for those 0 or 10 days.
I would imagine 110 to 115 for those days.
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Old 02-11-2010, 11:21 AM   #27
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Auxiliary in-line fans to help deliver heat to remote areas.


Ben... I don't know if I mentioned it, but the temp in the 'new' crawl space is a mere 48 degrees. The temp in the 'old' crawl space is 60 degrees because of it's proximity to the furnace and some uninsulated duct work. The barrier between the two is an insulated wood and 'fake rock' once exterior wall that is not load barring, but it does support some floor load.

I'm thinking about removing several of those 'panels' of the once exterior wall to allow more air circulation that'll hopefully heat up the new crawl space. Both the crawl spaces are vented with vents that are manually controlled. They are now closed even though they still allow some air to pass through.

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