tuckerz

I have installed a line set before, and wasn't too comfortable with the bends.

I need to install another line set in a ceiling area, and it basically will look like this. The long line of xxxx's are in a trough above kitchen cabinets, not an open joist run. After turning at location Y, I am installing it on the outside of the kitchen wall and boxing it in to match the other cabinet structure. Real PITA. It is going in a 40 year townhouse with a slab so you can imagine.

Exxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx...(Location Y)
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........................................E

E ends run down to equipment. Length is about 50 feet, 2 ton heat pump 3/4 " suction line.
Anyone have a link on tips and tricks to installing or bending ?

**Would it be ok to put a 90 degree connectors at the E's where it goes down to the equipment and at location Y, rather than try to bend it in.**

I don't think I have the room to meet the bend radius in location Y and I couldn't imagine trying to push it through at one end and at the same time trying to bend it out at location Y.
Thanks.

Marty S.

Braizing 90's on the E's is your best option. Purge dry nitrogen through the lines while braizing so the copper doesn't oxidize inside the lines.

hennyh

^^^ what he said.

I'd also use the long radius style elbows. Brand new 3/4" copper tubing is pretty easy to make gentle bends in but for anything more then that use fittings.

Avoid slumps in the line because they can collect oil. Try to keep the line as horizontal as possible up until the point where you need to do vertical.

You can also use Stay brite silver solder instead of brazing. It's stronger and you can skip the Nitrogen flow. However preparing the joints is more unforgiving then brazing.

tuckerz

Could you please explain why ? Thanks.

fazlis85

I have a similar scenario as the OP. I am installing a 1.5 ton mini split and need to do a 90 degree bend right where the tubing exits the wall (outside). Inside Unit in on the wall (and we have very thick walls) so that leaves no room left to bend the copper that is coming out of the evaporator.

Can I use this fitting? The female end of the fitting will screw on the pipe from the inside unit and then I will attach the line set to the male end.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

The reason I was doubtful was that the male end on the inside unit is intended for flare fittings and didn't know how well it would mate with the female end of this adapter.

hennyh

When using Stay Brite silver solder the joints need to be perfectly clean. You also need to apply just the right amount of flux and solder. Technique is also important.

Brazing (w/sil phos) is much more forgiving to prep. of the joints and technique. However the higher temps mean you need a Nitrogen purge.

tuckerz

Is there a specific method you use for cleaning ?

hennyh

Scotch brite until they're shiny and then acetone to clean. after that the Stay brite flux and solder will do the rest.

tuckerz

Would a good idea be to scotch brite and acetone the surface before the cut as to keep any contaminates out ?

hennyh

Yes, once cut the inside of the tubing needs to be kept contaminant free.

Marty S.

Staybrite 8 is the kind of silver solder being refered to,not plumbing solder. Maybe you knew that already tuckerz, just making sure.