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-   -   Another Bryant 383KVA with code 31 problems (http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/another-bryant-383kva-code-31-problems-6311/)

rpgIVguru 02-04-2007 10:14 PM

Another Bryant 383KVA with code 31 problems
 
Ok, I've read through a couple of threads on here and other places for solutions to my code 31 problem.

However, my seems to be a little bit different than the others, so I thought I'd lay out the whole story and see what you all would have to say.

Last night, my Bryant 383KVA (upflow) started making a god awfull racket. Since it was late, and the noise stopped I didn't look into it right away. This morning, the racket was back and I tracked it down to the draft inducer. The blower wheel was hitting the sides. Upon closer inspect, I realized that the bottom rubber grommet/spacer thingy was dried out/worn and allowing the assembly to move out of position.

Since it was Sunday, I couldn't find an appliance parts store open, and a search of regular hardware stores failed to turn up a suitable rubber grommet/spacer thingy.

The temperatures are in the single digits to low teens today and tomorrow; so I decided as a temporary fix, I'd swap the bottom rubber grommet/spacer thing with one of the upper ones as the upper ones were in better shape.

That seemed to work, as the blower wheel wasn't hitting anything now. However, after being on for a while, the furnace shut off giving me a code 31 on the LED.

Now, I can't say that I wasn't getting a code 31 before or not as I didn't know to look for it then :wink: However, we did notice that the furnace seem to be having trouble keeping the temperature up to the 70 we had it set at.

I this point the furnace will when ok for a while (30-60 min), then shutoff with the code 31. Although at least once, I noticed that the LED was steady with no diagnostic code after the furnace shut off and the temperature was still below the 70 we had it set at. After a while, (30-60 min) the furnace will kick back on and run ok for another 30-60 min.

Now I noticed when I had the draft inducer assembly off, that the seal looked pretty dried out and to be honest I had some trouble remounting the assembly which I'm sure wasn't good for it.

Also, I noticed that the inducer motor was quite hot to the touch.

Lastly, my unit has the plastic/metal pressure switch. I tried to test the voltages on the pressure switch (using instructions from here http://arnoldservice.com/Troubleshoo...g_Problems.htm ) , but my multimeter went nuts and I blew the secondary voltage fuse (code 24) which I then replaced.

So what do you all think is wrong:
1) Pressure Switch
2) assembly seal leaking
3) inducer motor/blower wheel problem
4) something else?


Thanks
Charles


#CARRIERMAN 02-05-2007 01:47 PM

Hi rpg IVguru

Lets start with what a code #31 actually is. A code 31 means that you have had a draft guard failure. This basically means that at some point in the cycle your pressure switch has opened for more that .008 millisecond. I would say that is due to the problem with the inducer grommets. However if the inducer is noisy at all it probably means it is not coming up to speed. You can try the grommets first to see if you can salvage the current inducer. Keep in mind you may end up having to replace the assembly. Here is the part number for the grommets, KA56GR560. They can range in price from $3.00 to $5.00 each. Its best to change all of them when you have to change one. If you end up needing the assembly let me know and I will give you the part number.

Good luck
Rusty


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