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Old 10-22-2011, 10:56 PM   #1
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Amana Gas-Fired Furnace


I have an Amana AMH95 Furnace that was installed in January of 2009. I have had no issues with this furnace through the first two winters.

This past week I tested it in anticipation of the coming heating season and it is not working. I turned the thermostat to Heat and set the temp well above room temperature. I hear a couple clicks and that is it. The Diagnostic LED flashes 3 times. According to the manual, 3 flashes = "Pressure Switch Stuck Open." The manual also states that the description of a Code 3 is the Pressure switch circuit is not closed and the Induced Draft Blower IS operating. However, this is not what I am seeing. The ID blower is NOT coming on for me.

Is it possible that the board is giving me the wrong error code?
Is this a sign that the problem is the board itself?

The symptoms that I am seeing are more consistent with an Error Code of 2 - Pressure Switch Stuck Closed.

The hose from the blower to switch looks fine(no crimps), there is no blockage in the flue or inlet piping, and the switch clicks if I suck on the hose.

Anyone have a similar experience? Any ideas?

Thanks for any help

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Old 10-22-2011, 11:25 PM   #2
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You have to check power to the inducer, it should be the first thing to come on. If there is no power going to the inducer on call for heat then it most likely is the board. If there is power being sent to the inducer but it's not coming on then the inducer motor is most likely bad.

Isn't your furnace under warranty?

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Old 10-23-2011, 05:41 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Holliday View Post
You have to check power to the inducer, it should be the first thing to come on. If there is no power going to the inducer on call for heat then it most likely is the board. If there is power being sent to the inducer but it's not coming on then the inducer motor is most likely bad.

Isn't your furnace under warranty?
Part warranty, not labor warranty. Unless they bought a labor warranty.
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Old 10-23-2011, 12:39 PM   #4
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It has 2 PVC pipe or maybe one that is from draft motor. Anyways you must have a bird nest inside it not let draft motor to push out the air and not able suck in switch. You need to look outside pipe and see if a nest is inside. You may have to unhook by furnace and stick leaf blower inside pipe to blow it out
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Old 10-23-2011, 01:06 PM   #5
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There is no blockage in either piping. I am able to get the ID blower to run by disconnecting from the board and using alternate power. I can feel exhaust coming out with the blower running. Also, this tells me the problem is not the blower motor.

Sounds like this means the problem is with the board. Would you agree?

Any suggestions on replacing the board, as far as from where/how much?

Thanks for the replies.
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Old 10-23-2011, 01:14 PM   #6
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remove the tube from where it taps into the ID motor discharge and suck on it see if you get clicking then blow into it lightly to hear the clicking....the board might need to see OPEN on the Switch just after it starts the ID if it sees CLOSED then you get the fault...the board need the cycle to proof out air present into the burner section....
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Old 10-23-2011, 01:19 PM   #7
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biggles - I did test the switch by lightly sucking on the hose and it does click.
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Old 10-23-2011, 01:40 PM   #8
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so you need to lightly blow on it simulating the ID motor running so it proofs out closing and the board sees that...reconnect everything and restart the heating...as soon as that ID comes on the switch should close....then spark pilot...main gas..supply fan*(might be during ignition, board controls the supply fan during heating call)most right after main gas starts so you don't throw cold air up into the space
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Old 10-23-2011, 03:14 PM   #9
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I agree that the switch would close when the ID blower comes on. As I stated in my original post, my problem is that the ID blower is NOT coming on.

I'm convinced that the problem is with the board. Anyone have suggestions for replacing it? I have not been able to locate the exact board yet. Are these universal?

Furnace model# AMH950703BXAC
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Old 10-23-2011, 03:24 PM   #10
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Nope. I'm pretty sure your furnace is 2 stage. So you will need the OEM board.
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Old 10-29-2011, 01:46 PM   #11
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This has now been resolved. I replaced the board this morning and it started right up.

Thanks for the replies.

Looking forward to a warmer night tonight!
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Old 10-29-2011, 02:27 PM   #12
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the ID makes the PSI switch then the board cycles the heat knowing there is air present into the burner...check here for a pricing idea... http://www.bestbuyheatingandaircondi...cuitboards.htm

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