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Old 07-24-2012, 03:15 PM   #16
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For all the HVAC experts! 2 level difference


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Originally Posted by turnermech View Post
The problem is you need more btu's and air flow as you go up in levels of your home in summer and less btu's as you go up in winter. the ductwork will only deliver a set amount regarless of what you the load is. You can check deltal T but too much air flow will not reduce the deltal T. to little air flow will increase the delta t and will freeze the coil. My opinion as a HVAC contractor in your near your vary area.

If you were only cooling or only heating through these ducts you could address sizing to correct the problem. your main problem is you need different amount of Btu 's foor cooling than you do for heating.
yea the ducts are for cooling and heating only. what other purpose would they serve? where are you located in MD?

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Old 07-24-2012, 03:42 PM   #17
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yea the ducts are for cooling and heating only. what other purpose would they serve? where are you located in MD?
unforchanly too far to come to DC, Cambridge, MD

I was meaning some duct system are cooling only and use other forms of heat (hot water for one) some areas of the world have really only a heating or a cooling season, either of these make it easier to do multi level homes with one system/zone.

It can be done with one zone but you need to size it to allow for dampers to be closed or opened depending on the season. The damper are labled and have summer/winter positions. this is the way it was done in the old days. There are now better ways but the old one will work too.
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:53 PM   #18
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ah gotcha. yea the house does cool and heat with one. sorry i didnt catch what you meant. just took some pics!
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:56 PM   #19
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Full disclosure I work with Owens Corning, but we recently updated a couple sections on our website with additional information about tips and solutions revolving around HVAC, duct solutions and air ventilation. Figured I'd post the link and good luck!

http://bit.ly/JLQ0ok

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Adam
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:01 PM   #20
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thanks Adam for the input! i will check out the link.
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:04 PM   #21
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here is the main supply on top floor that runs straight down to 1st floor
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:05 PM   #22
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here is the duct on top floor inside bulkhead. its a pretty decent size
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:06 PM   #23
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here is return on top floor. its at end of the hallway
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:07 PM   #24
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here is unit outside-i cant tell what kind it is
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:11 PM   #25
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Not a problem Federer. If you ever have specific OC Duct (or other) questions that you can't find online, feel free to message me!

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Adam
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http://bit.ly/JLQ0ok
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:11 PM   #26
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furnance
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:05 PM   #27
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Not perfect but cheap and easy - get a window unit for your upstairs bedroom(s)
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Old 07-25-2012, 05:07 AM   #28
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I have not found this to be a problem. Properly sized ducts (supply/return) and matching air handler size to the ducts / heat load will correct this. Additionally, the use of jump or transfer ducts helps also.
I don't really see how you could properly size ducts for the varying loads needed for summer and winter seasons. In the winter, the upper floor would need a good bit less heating than would the lower floor, and in the summer the upper floor would need a good bit MORE cooling than the lower floor. Unless you have some method to expand and restrict ductwork as needed, I think you'll find that you can't overcome those varying loads, and you'll end up overheating the upper floor in the winter and/or overcooling the lower floor in the summer.

Transfer ducts, crossovers, etc etc (i.e. Zoning) can certainly help to alleviate many of the symptoms of this, but the only real fix I've ever seen is to either (a) install separate systems to handle the separate zones correctly or (b) install a system adequately sized for the maximum loads on the structure, and zone it correctly. Other measures (i.e. sealing ducts, sealing around registers, different filters) are all good suggestions - but they're quite unlikely to make any real difference in the different temperatures. Adding returns may certainly help - in fact, I did this in the last home I lived in ( a tri-level) and it made a difference - but when it's all said and done, poor duct/system design is still poor duct/system design.
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Old 07-25-2012, 08:17 AM   #29
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all I can tell you is that I had the same type issues, up stairs was hotter then down stairs. I was able to fix it without pulling out the old ducts in the walls. There is no longer a difference in temp and the bills went down by 25 percent. that is my experiance.

as to the pictures. picture 1. You have what looks to be a bulls head "t". sorry to say but that is the worst (as far as equvilant duct length) goes. The air is comming up and then hits the juctions and is not guided into the horizonal ducts. Lots of static pressure here!!!! this should be a nicely bent WYE. its good that the ducts can be seen. I would have a new wye made and put in.

picture 2 standard looking supply register of the stamped steel type, with dampener in the back. there are better registers in terms of air flow.

picture 3. appears to be a return, but its screwed to the wall... so where is the filter?????

picture 4. outside unit.

pic 5.. supply and return at air handler. Looks way restrictive at return and see the square supply duct (white paint) that is leaking so bad that the dust has made a pattern.... that needs to be sealed, as do all other exposed seams etc.

so... I suspect that the return is causing high static pressure, as is the bulls head T... get them fixed with new sheet metal... google for more info about the alternatives to the T and how a good return should be designed.
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Old 07-25-2012, 06:23 PM   #30
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I've seen a bare handful of existing systems that could be made manageable through minor repairs like sealing and such. In the overwhelming majority of cases, the only fix I've seen is zoning, either through electric dampers (or manual) or through added equipment.

You can spend the money on adding wyes and such ... but before I did that, I'd have a reputable company out to look at your system and give you an onsite appraisal. We can only do so much with photos and such.

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