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Old 12-13-2009, 08:41 PM   #1
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air trap for hot water baseboard heat


I have a hot water baseboard heating system, no radiators. The system splits off into two zones. One of the zones goes up inside a closet to the attic, then back down to ground level. The problem is, when I bleed the air from the system, I still have air trapped in the high elevation pipes, which eventually works it's way back down into the lower elevations and causes the gurgling. Do you think it's a good or bad idea to cut into the copper pipe right before it returns back into the heater, and install a copper tee and then a solder in a vertically mounted 1" pipe about 2 feet long to capture any air that will circulate through the system. I plan on putting a ball valve on top to easily let out any air that is captured inside this pipe. I have spent many hours trying to evacuate the air from the system to no avail. I thought this would be the best way to capture the air. Am I way off course here? I appreciate any help.

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Old 12-13-2009, 09:46 PM   #2
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air trap for hot water baseboard heat


Are you bleading the air out with bleeders at the baseboard or with a blow down under full flow? Once the air is out of the system it should not come back if the system is set up correctly.

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Old 12-13-2009, 10:11 PM   #3
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air trap for hot water baseboard heat


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Originally Posted by JohnH1 View Post
Are you bleading the air out with bleeders at the baseboard or with a blow down under full flow? Once the air is out of the system it should not come back if the system is set up correctly.
Or there is not enough pressure to reach the outer extreme points of the system. I've handled a similar problem some time ago when I was part of a maintenance crew in a Health Related facility. Where the corner room on the top floor and one room in the attic would have cold radiators no matter how much the pipes were bled. The problem turned out to be that one pump out of a Two stage system was not operational. Once the pressure was increased the problem was gone. (No matter what) Don't Drink and Drive, Ever!!!
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Old 12-14-2009, 06:12 AM   #4
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air trap for hot water baseboard heat


Install an air eliminator near your boiler. And a purge valve.
After installing them. You should only have to purge your system once. And the air eliminator will remove any air after that.

What you want to do won't eliminate the air problem by itself.
PS: What temp is your boiler set for.
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Old 12-14-2009, 06:55 AM   #5
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air trap for hot water baseboard heat


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One of the zones goes up inside a closet to the attic, then back down to ground level.
Ayuh,... I'd think a Bleeder in the attic,+ a Spirovent at the boilers outlet would be the way to go...
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Old 12-14-2009, 08:06 AM   #6
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air trap for hot water baseboard heat


If you do install a air eliminator in the attic be real careful I have seen them fail and empty out systems or just keep pumping water out because of auto feed.

If I put one in the attic I would pipe it to a spot where water and air would not ruin my ceiling and walls if it failed.

I recommend follow beenthere procedure first and see how it goes this year.
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Old 12-22-2009, 03:54 PM   #7
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air trap for hot water baseboard heat


BeenThere: My boiler is set at 160 F. Pardon my ignorance, but I'm guessing that an air eliminator is a type of "valve" that only opens when air is present? How does it work? What will it cost? I'm a generator tech, not a plumber or HVAC tech, so I really appreciate the info. Sultini, thanks for the warning on the attic air eliminator. It seems like a bad place to put it.
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Old 12-22-2009, 04:03 PM   #8
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air trap for hot water baseboard heat


Here is a site that sells them

They have a air scrubber in them. That helps to separate air from teh water. They also have a much large area in them then the pipe does. So the water slows down and allows the air to separate from the water better.

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