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Old 12-05-2008, 08:18 PM   #16
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Might be a little shy. I would put two registers in a room that size, but with out seeing the actual set up I can't be 100%.

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Old 12-06-2008, 05:11 AM   #17
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Without knowing how much heat is needed, no way to say.
But, as hvaclover said, 2 supplies.
You can always close off the damper if 2 is more then needed.
But companies charge extra if they have to come back out to add one later. If you told them omly one.
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Old 12-06-2008, 07:47 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by jogr View Post
Find a new contractor and don't look back.
This is my thought also.

How does he plan to get cold air into the rooms?????

Must be some new technology I am not aware of.
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Old 12-06-2008, 09:51 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marvin Gardens View Post
This is my thought also.

How does he plan to get cold air into the rooms?????

Must be some new technology I am not aware of.

i think they are going to do it interocularly ~OWTCH~
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Old 12-06-2008, 10:49 AM   #20
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i think they are going to do it interocularly ~OWTCH~
YEA!!!!!

Or maybe paint the rooms blue and make you think that the rooms are cool.
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Old 12-06-2008, 01:18 PM   #21
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In a former life I was in the contracting bus. -- most subs I ran into were bull**** artists-- don't pay the bills and would screw their mothers to make a buck. Thats the lessons I got after 20 yrs in the bus. I am spending $12,500 for this system and two ac contractors have given me two vastly difrent ducting stories. From my exper. the purchaser must beware and educate himself --not rely on a subs word -if you do your are asking for trouble.(like ceiling supply registers connected to nothing) If I can't get straight answers from these subs then screw em- I will keep my 12 grand and continue to use window ac's. I could go on for an hour with horror stories from my 20 yrs in the bus. Please note I said MOST subs not ALL subs, ALL would apply only to GC's ---- Been there done that and got a tee shirt.
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Old 12-06-2008, 01:53 PM   #22
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That's the rub. You got two guys and they have diff approaches...just like I pointed out earlier.

I assume both guys are knowledgeable or you wouldn't be talking to them.

If you trust them then pick one you're most comfortable with.

Believe, micro managing the details and double checking info will just get you more confused.

This biz is as much an art as it is science. But we would all go about the same job differently. That is the nature of the biz.

use your gut and pick one and trust him. You keep second guessing the guys work and you may want to fire him half way thru or he might walk off the job.
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Old 12-06-2008, 02:25 PM   #23
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Here is what I would be doing if I were hired.

Vents in every room and put them up high on the wall or in the ceiling. Reason; to put the cold in the whole room and not just cool off some furniture. As hvaclover said, some rooms should get two vents for even distribution.

A return on every floor. Reason; to keep one floor from getting too much flow and another room from getting too little flow.

Vents to match the rooms. Reason; some rooms just get warmer than other like the south facing rooms or the kitchen. The worst is a south facing kitchen with lots of windows.

This is pretty standard in the business. If your guy is not putting vents in each room then ask why he isn't. I know of no other way to get air into a room without a vent of some sort. Even if the door is open there is a natural air pressure barrier that will keep the air from going into a room.

Keep in mind that wind makes tunnels in the air. It does not mix unless it is directed in many different directions. All my installs get vents that are at least 3 way so that the conditioned air mixes well with the existing air.

Velocity is another issue. Too little and it will just move air a few feet and not really mix it up. Too much and it feels like you are in a wind tunnel.

This is the key to an even temperature in the house.

Here is my temperature over the last 24 hours in every room except the bathroom and kitchen. The spikes is the heat coming on in the morning and that is it for the day. The temperature slowly drops off as the day progresses unless it is sunny in which case the south facing rooms heat up. But I have returns in there that pull that heat through the furnace as the fan cycles on during the day to keep the temperature normal. We keep it cool in our house as you can see and like it that way.
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Old 12-06-2008, 04:27 PM   #24
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good show Marvin an a perfect example of two people doing the job...but the diff is I would shy away from high wall registers as they don't work well in Northern and Northeastern climes. The air is hard to get from the ceiling to the floor(Due to it's tendency to raise) without very high velocity which creates noise. And there can also be the problem the air blowing so hard it would be an annoyance.

The biggest problem you have with high wall registers is unless the design is perfect it will be noisy and the stratification problems will cause a cold zone from the waist down.

Waist up it's warm....some times too warm.

High wall and ceiling registers are great for the Southwest and Western states where the emphasis is ac more than heat.

I have corrected many older homes at great expense to my customer here in Mi that had high wall and ceiling registers.

So as you can see two diff guys two diff methodolgies. Both guys good at the job.

Thanks for baring with me Marvin. I think you understand that was just an example for clarification to the HO and by no means a condemnation of your damn good abilities.
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Old 12-06-2008, 05:14 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hvaclover View Post
good show Marvin an a perfect example of two people doing the job...but the diff is I would shy away from high wall registers as they don't work well in Northern and Northeastern climes. The air is hard to get from the ceiling to the floor(Due to it's tendency to raise) without very high velocity which creates noise. And there can also be the problem the air blowing so hard it would be an annoyance.

The biggest problem you have with high wall registers is unless the design is perfect it will be noisy and the stratification problems will cause a cold zone from the waist down.

Waist up it's warm....some times too warm.

High wall and ceiling registers are great for the Southwest and Western states where the emphasis is ac more than heat.

I have corrected many older homes at great expense to my customer here in Mi that had high wall and ceiling registers.

So as you can see two diff guys two diff methodolgies. Both guys good at the job.

Thanks for baring with me Marvin. I think you understand that was just an example for clarification to the HO and by no means a condemnation of your damn good abilities.
Good example of how different areas require different strategies. In the west high on the wall or ceiling is standard.

Returns are in the ceiling or high on the walls as are all the registers.

My vents aim down at the opposite corner of the room and don't just blow across the top.

In my experience the furniture blocks the flow of air on floor vents or low wall vents. Nothing like sitting at a desk in the middle of a heat wave and have cold legs while the room is 90 degrees.
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Old 12-10-2008, 01:36 AM   #26
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Thank you all for the info. Any thoughts on the benefits of two stage vs. single stage my guy says two stage about $700 more...worth it over time???? Thanks
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Old 12-10-2008, 06:25 AM   #27
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2 stage is for "comfort", not for savings.

If you get additional savings because of it being 2 stage. Its from it being able to keep the indoor humidity lower, and being able to raise the indoor temp a degree or 2 higher because of the lower humidity, and still be just as comfortable.

They are worth the money, if you feel you comfort has value.

Get teeh VS blower if you get 2 stage.
They don't do as well removing humidity with a standard blower.
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Old 12-10-2008, 10:40 AM   #28
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THANKS ---I am going with American Standard equip. The Allegiance 16 Ultra two stage 3 ton and the variable speed handler w/ Accu Clean 4TEE40. The home calls for 2.5 ton but no half ton in that 2 stage model. The contractor will start this Monday. Can't seem to find what cost vs value is on central air remodel--what % should I expect to get on home sale???? I live between Boston and Cape Cod. I believe that there is both a $300 federal tax credit and a $500 rebate from my electric co. Thanks to all who helped
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Old 12-10-2008, 11:00 AM   #29
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Can't seem to find what cost vs value is on central air remodel--what % should I expect to get on home sale????
The return on high efficiency furnaces should be high. There are several points to consider.

Energy will do nothing but go up and anything to lower the costs is going to be a good selling point.

In fact I predict there will be a day when a high efficiency furnace will be the norm either by law or by code requirements.

Costs for good always goes up. Selling your home 10 years from now and having the high efficiency furnace in will look like a good investment to the purchasers even though you got it for less than half of the cost it will take to put it in 10 years from now.

There is a simple fact in home finances. Less money for things like interest, renovations, or energy costs mean more money for mortgage payments.

Air conditioning in moderate climates is not such a good investment. It is more for comfort and not a required item like it is in the SW. Most moisture situations can be handled by a dehumidifier. Still some people are just used to it and like having it there.

In the west side of the Cascades it is considered a luxury to have air. We rarely get long periods of hot days and it cools off nicely at night so demand is low for air. We are the only ones that have air in our neighborhood and that is only because I am in the HVAC business and got one that was damaged for a really good price.
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Old 12-10-2008, 01:00 PM   #30
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Doubtfull it will increase your properties value any.
But, should help you to get closer to your asking price, when selling.

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