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Old 10-31-2011, 07:40 PM   #1
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Add warmth to one zone


Not sure if there is a way to do this...

Three story house along with DHW off the boiler.

Floor 1 is maybe 500 sq ft. A total of 6 registers.
Floor 2 is probably 1000 sq ft, with a 16 ft cathedral ceiling. A total of 18 registers.
Floor 3 is probably 700 sq ft. A total of 6 registers.

(I know I should probably calculate actual total footage or the registers)!

Anyway, as you might guess, Floor 2 remains chilly, the boiler can run almost non stop and not be able to get that floor to a comfortable temperature (say 68 to 70 F).

I wondered if there was some way to add some additional "oomph" to a zone, without oversizing the whole unit.
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Old 11-02-2011, 11:34 PM   #2
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Add warmth to one zone


the answer is in the 2nd floor description...Cathedral ceilings with the other rooms 8'that is area that needs to be heated also is it old fashion rads or perimeter baseboard? and if it is baseboard did the tenent lay carpet and cheat the space on the bottom if it is restricted you won't get the full heat out of the loop your also saying BOILER but counting registers as if its a furnace with a fan supply ducts are tight not leaking dors each floor have its own return back to the furnace...but it is definity those 16' ceilings are killing the heat on 2 if it is hot water baseboard how much actual finned tubing in feet is on 2
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Old 11-03-2011, 07:31 AM   #3
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Add warmth to one zone


Thanks biggles. I will try to answer your questions as thoroughly as possible, and ask one "stupid question" at the end!
These are hot water baseboard heaters (not the oldies, the ones with the fins). It is all hardwood flooring, so I don't think they are restricted anywhere.
STUPID QUESTION WARNING: Some of the registers are "open", i.e. there is no "face plate" on the radiator (it's missing). Does the fact that some of the registers are "open" like this allow tons of heat to spill out of one register, thus robbing the register "down the line" of heat??
I found one hugely drafty door last night, which I intend to tighten up this weekend. The house was a foreclosure, so I am still discovering things. The zone of Floor 2 is unique, in my experience. It comes off the boiler and goes to the zone valve. After the zone valve it splits in two, one end goes to the South side, one end to the North side. Two returns then come back and connect into one pipe, thus forming the return loop for that zone. Each floor does have its own zone, and its own return to the boiler.

We are looking at a pellet stove, as I think that will be the only viable option to heat the big space. Either that or a space heater!

Thanks.
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Old 11-03-2011, 07:49 AM   #4
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Add warmth to one zone


if the front covers are missing that kills the design of the baseboard and tries to act like a old case iron,have you tried to shut the 1st and 3rd to see what the 2nd ends up with.....what is the temperature setting on the boiler itself to maintain the hot water circulating,if you get a chance measure the actual lenghts of finned baseborad typicals 3'...6'...8ft lenghts wondering if the 2nd has the same amount as 1st and 3rd?.so the questions are the floors typical amounts on finned tubbing at whats the actual water temp out of the boiler... is north south in the rooms outside walls how are they when the wind blows and its below 30F? just wondering..so it sounds like 1st/3rd are only one run thru the space on a outside wall?can you see how that high ceiling is adding to the heating load on 2.if you have an 8'ceiling on 2 with baseboard it is probably warmer but walking out into the cathedrel area it feels cooler clip some covers off the warmer floors for now
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Last edited by biggles; 11-03-2011 at 07:54 AM.
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Old 11-03-2011, 10:12 AM   #5
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Add warmth to one zone


You've probably already checked this but dust & hair in the baseboard fins really limits their effectiveness. A vaccum and a new long brisseled paint brush works well for this type of cleaning but not as quickly as the blower end.
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Old 11-03-2011, 11:12 AM   #6
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Are there cold air returns on every floor?
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Old 11-03-2011, 11:14 AM   #7
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Just to clarify, this is a forced hot water system!
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Old 11-03-2011, 11:56 AM   #8
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Add warmth to one zone


Doug...just call it hot water baseboard with a boiler 3 floors with zone valves and stat per floor...anything on the actual temperature setting...one way to check it on theremometer on the boiler when you see the main burner go off but the circulator pump stay on thats the actual control setting....they are pretty much a general control and don't track to the degree....if wee can raise the temp on the controller maybe that will help over all...check back later
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Old 11-10-2011, 11:39 AM   #9
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Add warmth to one zone


I'm a little late getting back to this, but here goes!

Biggles, looks like the boiler is set to somewhere between 189 and 193 F, as twice when I was downstairs and the boiler finished but the circ wasn't, I observed these temps.

Here's baseboard measurement per floor:

Floor 1 we're going to skip as it is basement, we set it to 55F.
Floor 2 with the high ceilings (nc means no cover or faceplate on the baseboard) : hallway 4' nc, bath
14', front hall 2', living room 8' total with 6' nc, main room 7', breakfast nook 12', dining room total 10' with 5' nc.
Floor 3: br1 has 9', br2 has 8', br3 has 11', bath has 5', hall has 6' nc.

So floor 2 has a total of 57 feet with 15 feet having no cover or faceplate.
Floor 3 has a total of 39 feet with 6 feet having no cover or faceplate.

Floor 2 has more sq footage so I expected more register footage.

Even if I shut off 1 and 3, on a cold day Floor 2 can't get hot enough (say 70f). Obviously some of this is due to the cathedral ceilings.

Are the lack of faceplates making a large impact? I have tried to purchase just faceplates, I have hd no luck.

Thanks for reading, appreciate any insight.
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Old 11-11-2011, 06:58 PM   #10
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_ BUMP _

Anyone? I guess my major question is:

How much impact does it make when your baseboard radiators are lacking faceplates, and how would you replace the missing ones? I have seen some made of wood, and some of perforated metal (satan-ly expensive).

Thanks!
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Old 11-11-2011, 11:15 PM   #11
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Add warmth to one zone


Baseboard heat is a convection style heat....it relies on the covers to create the convection. Have you measured the temperature of the supply pipe in each room? Baseboard heat output is a combination of length of heater and temperature of the water. The size of the room is the prime consideration when determining amount of heat (length) in each room. Is the floor insulated between the first and second floor? Is the 2nd floor directly above the basement? If so, try raising the temperature of the basement.
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