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Old 10-11-2008, 07:25 AM   #16
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Is it actually cheaper to.......???????


Some good information in this post.
I think it's important to understand what the R value of your home might be. How air tight/ insulated, it is and the climate/temp swing you have over the winter months in your area.

I've delayed changing out my own thermostat partly because of the varying models that are available and not being able to get my head around if a programable will actually save me anything.

One thing to consider when it comes to the "away" or "overnight" temp setting is the area you live in. Specifically, what are the temp swings, high to low. If your winter daytime temp goes up to 50 in Oct and down to 38 overnight I leave it set at 62. In my home, 45 new windows, insulation in walls and attic and a 2 story @ 1900 SF, the house stays comfortable. But it was a tad chilly. Furnace ran about 3 times an hour last year.

In Nov the daytime temp is 40 and drops to 30 overnight. I set the temp to 66 and leave it there for the rest of the winter-through Feb. Dress in layers and sleep under down comforter. It is cold in the mornings Dec/Jan/Feb can be negative temps in the AM, but I added an electric wall mount heater in the bathroom to resolve that problem.

I just can't see where lowering the temp overnight would actually save me anything. The furnace has to recover the entire house, running longer and more often to maintain a new higher temp. I think you need to look at all variables, even including how often the doors are opened, if you want to actually trap that warm air inside your house and have an efficient system.

Now when it comes to keeping the divorce lawyers at bay then by all means, raise the temp to whatever level she/they require.

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Old 10-11-2008, 07:44 AM   #17
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Is it actually cheaper to.......???????


If setting the temp back at night from 66 to 62 while your sleeping doesn't save ou any money.
Then your house has a high infiltration rate.
And you should seal your house better.
Heat transfer is linear(at night time without solar gain). You lose more heat per hour at 66, then you do at 62.
But its only a 6% difference, so your savings are small, and take a long time to add up.
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Old 10-11-2008, 08:37 AM   #18
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Great thread...what was that about sealing ductwork seams with tape being code?
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Old 10-11-2008, 10:44 AM   #19
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Hey Beenthere, don't I kknow you
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Old 10-11-2008, 11:36 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beenthere View Post
Honeywell designations CT and RT identify the thermostat as a retail store thermostat.
Thermostat with those designations have 1 or more abilities disabled that the the equivalent model a contractor can get through his distributor has.

As for setting temp back savings. 1/2°F for every hour you'll be away at work. If going away for the weekend. 10° max set back.

Unless your using a full featured thermostat, setbacks of more then 2° on a heat pump in winter will use more electric.

So the down and dirty of it is that the stat is designed to have less feature, and less hardy electronics cheaply mfg to meet the price sensitive markets the HDs and Lowes cater to.

Like ordering a a Filet Mignon amd getting ground chuck.

Dang.
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Last edited by hvaclover; 10-11-2008 at 12:03 PM.
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Old 10-11-2008, 11:59 AM   #21
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Hey Beenthere, don't I kknow you
In a land far far away.
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Old 10-11-2008, 12:11 PM   #22
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Quote:
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So the down and dirty of it is that the stat is designed to have less feature, and less hardy electronics cheaply mfg to meet the price sensitive markets the HDs and Lowes cater to.



Dang.
Pretty much.

Look at the Ridgid pipe wrenches at HD, and then the ones sold in HVAC/Plumbing wholesale houses.

Not made the same.

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