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Old 06-06-2011, 10:48 PM   #1
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72 degree vent air 75 degree return air


I think the main issue is the lack of air flow. Air comes out of the vents very very soft while in everyone elses house it comes out fast. I don't know how to fix it.

2 Ton Trane XR11 outside and inside air handler is matched.
1344 sq ft single story house. Brand new insulated windows and insulation in the attic.
I've checked all the ducts and sealed them up.
All the ducts are insulated flex duct running off a main fiber board trunk.

I've had 2 ac Techs out here both say the system is fine. All they really did was check the freon, crawl up in the attic for 10 minutes, take my $100 deductible and leave.
My friend let me borrow his temp gun and I have been going crazy with it.
In the main trunk in the attic I took off one of the ducts and stuck the temp gun inside... it was 50 degrees. Used the temp gun at the vent(register) and it was 68 degrees with minimal air flow. All vents have low air flow.

At night air coming out of the vents is about 58. I dont think the issue is the ducts they all seem fairly new. A few of the runs are questionable with a 90 degree bend or 2 but still shouldnt effect air flow to ALL registers.

Is there a way to make this thing blow faster so the air has less time to warm up!?

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Old 06-07-2011, 05:35 AM   #2
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72 degree vent air 75 degree return air


Sounds like under sized duct. Might not have enough return either. How thick is the insulation.

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Old 06-07-2011, 06:49 AM   #3
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Duct work is 6 inches except for the 2 bathrooms which are 4 inches which I think is right isnt it?
Insulation is about 10 inches deep in most places except for where I laid a board down to crawl out to each of the ducts to check for leaks.

How big is the return for a 2 ton unit supposed to be?
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Old 06-07-2011, 06:50 AM   #4
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72 degree vent air 75 degree return air


How many supply registers do you have and what size is the duct?
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Old 06-07-2011, 06:53 AM   #5
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There are 11 vents/supply registers in the house. 1 return.

Flex duct running to all of them. All are 5 or 6 inches (not sure exactly)except for the 2 going to the 2 bathrooms. They are 4 inches.
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:54 AM   #6
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Is the ductwork insulated? Colder air at night; sun is down, so attic is cooler.
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Old 06-07-2011, 12:25 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by ryanxo View Post

All the ducts are insulated flex duct running off a main fiber board trunk.
sooo yes
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Old 06-08-2011, 10:30 PM   #8
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OK guys I took A LOT of pics. Wanna help me out with a diagnosis?

OK This is the return... AKA where it comes out of my house and runs into the AC. Obviously I took the flex duct piece off so I could take a pic of inside. I put it back on and metal taped it when i was done. Why the Heck is their rust inside?

Resizing the pics ... be back in 1 sec



This is the side of my AC. Pretty fubar Duct work... really hoping that isn't the problem.


This is what it looks like with the return duct back on.



THis is the beginning of the main trunk. That 90 degree turn right off the bat cannot be a good thing.


And here is the whole thing

Last edited by ryanxo; 06-08-2011 at 10:40 PM.
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Old 06-08-2011, 10:56 PM   #9
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72 degree vent air 75 degree return air


Your evaporator coil is more than 50% blocked so all heat that is supposed to be picked up from the living space is not being picked up and distributed to the outside condenser and out into the air. You are recirculating the same heat and not removing any.


You need a severe evaporator coil cleaning and I'd be willing to bet a condenser coil cleaning as well (to be able to get rid of the heat) and an air flow static pressure check to certainteed that your system is moving proper air flow and proper air flow is mandatory to system charge.

Have your coils cleaned alone and you'll drop 10 degrees supply air, gauranteed.
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Old 06-08-2011, 11:00 PM   #10
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Your evaporator coil is more than 50% blocked so all heat that is supposed to be picked up from the living space is not being picked up and distributed to the outside condenser and out into the air. You are recirculating the same heat and not removing any.


You need a severe evaporator coil cleaning and I'd be willing to bet a condenser coil cleaning as well (to be able to get rid of the heat) and an air flow static pressure check to certainteed that your system is moving proper air flow and proper air flow is mandatory to system charge.

Have your coils cleaned alone and you'll drop 10 degrees supply air, gauranteed.
OH, that dirty thing is the evap coil. I couldn't see it at first through all that dirt.
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Old 06-08-2011, 11:03 PM   #11
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Really? I thought it looked clean! hahaha
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Old 06-08-2011, 11:05 PM   #12
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OH, that dirty thing is the evap coil. I couldn't see it at first through all that dirt.
hehe!! <snicker>

The poor guy, I'm glad he removed that duct so we saw it and could help him.

OP, air flow is critical and you have none. That is filthy. You need to have the return air duct/chase checked all around the system to ensure you are not pulling any dirty air from anywhere other than your filter grill and keep your air filters new and clean, after you have those coils cleaned.

beenthere, you made me smile. Thanks bub.

Last edited by Doc Holliday; 06-08-2011 at 11:08 PM.
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Old 06-08-2011, 11:16 PM   #13
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The sad part is I've had one guy clean it and 2 other AC techs come out and tell me there was nothing wrong. Yet with one little picture u guys pointed it out. Now how the hell should I clean this thing? Go at it with a can of evap coil cleaner? I don't wanna take it out of the system.

Thanks btw!
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Old 06-08-2011, 11:23 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanxo View Post
The sad part is I've had one guy clean it and 2 other AC techs come out and tell me there was nothing wrong. Yet with one little picture u guys pointed it out. Now how the hell should I clean this thing? Go at it with a can of evap coil cleaner? I don't wanna take it out of the system.

Thanks btw!

You can use a hair brush from the 99 cent store and stroke from top to bottom WITH the "grain" of the fins so as to not bend them. You remove all of the cover dirt with a brush, be it a hair brush as aforementioned, or a wire brush and yes, you then can use a can of evaporator coil cleaner and spray it into the coil. You can pick up an environmentally friendly no rinse foaming action can of evaporator coil cleaner from The Home Depot for $4.99. Get two cans. It is a no rinse formula because the condensate from the coil (humidity pulled from the air) will rinse it off once the system is back up and running. Clean the coil with the system off.

And you're welcome.

Last edited by Doc Holliday; 06-08-2011 at 11:25 PM.
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Old 06-08-2011, 11:24 PM   #15
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Here is a close up. Forgot I took this one too.


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