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Old 02-19-2012, 11:55 AM   #1
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3 zone boiler


Greeting's to all!! I am new here and am in need of info on the subject of purging a 3 zone radiant heat boiler. I am including pics to help those in the know. I am getting an air hammer everytime the zone valve closes and a pronounced gurgling or percolating sound coming from the system. System is replacement after 41 years of old boiler's operation. Thank you for your help!!


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Old 02-19-2012, 11:57 AM   #2
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Where's the pics?

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Old 02-19-2012, 12:01 PM   #3
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Trying to figure out the upload process and am not having a good time of it!
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Old 02-19-2012, 12:02 PM   #4
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I think The Duke is right!
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Old 02-19-2012, 12:18 PM   #5
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Are your one valves made by Honeywell.
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Old 02-19-2012, 12:24 PM   #6
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yes, they are honeywell zone valves
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Old 02-19-2012, 02:21 PM   #7
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Those zones are known for closing too quick, when certain types of circulators are used. Often, 1 of the closing springs has to be remove to slow them down.


Without pics, can't tell you how to purge air from your system.
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:32 AM   #8
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Thanks been there! As soon as I figure out why my pics aren't uploading, I will swnd them to you alomg with type of circulator.
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Old 02-22-2012, 03:17 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock Fossil View Post
Greeting's to all!! I am new here and am in need of info on the subject of purging a 3 zone radiant heat boiler. I am including pics to help those in the know. I am getting an air hammer everytime the zone valve closes and a pronounced gurgling or percolating sound coming from the system. System is replacement after 41 years of old boiler's operation. Thank you for your help!!
Most of the time those zone valves will close too hard and hammer because some one installed them the wrong way in the water flow . They have to close against the water flow. If they close with the water flow then they will hammer.
I have seen boiler men that don't know supply from return. Make sure the pump is pumping the right way. Paul

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Old 02-23-2012, 05:14 AM   #10
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Thanks Paul 52446m- The plumbers didn't change the zone valves only the boiler and the system never acted this way until it was fired up this season. It worked fine last winter when it was installed which led me to suspect air in the lines.
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Old 02-23-2012, 10:11 AM   #11
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Pictures can be posted on this site using www.photobucket.com
Upload your pics, select the IMG Code, then paste onto your post.

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Old 02-23-2012, 10:11 AM   #12
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Have you bleed valves to drain the air from your rad's or baseboards? (Do it with the thermostats down). Do you have an auto air bleed valve at your boiler. Is the cap on top loose or tightened right down? When you tap the sides of the expansion tank, does one half sound empty while the other half sounds solid?

When your boiler is running, What does the guage say your water pressure and temp is? Watch the guage for 5 minutes with each zone on by itself.
Let us know what it says.
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Old 02-24-2012, 05:42 AM   #13
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Thanks Houston and How-
I plan to get into it further this weekend when I have more time to delve into the system and solve this dilemma. The previous reply regarding the Honeywell valves and certain circulators not being compatible sounded interesting as well. Thanks all, talk soon!

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