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2.5 ton goodman coil flowrater

17K views 37 replies 4 participants last post by  slash5bmw 
#1 ·
I have a bryant condenser and the label says that I need an air handler with a txv. I have 2.5 ton goodman ARUF303016CA air handler and the "F" in the model number means it has a flowrater metering device.

Is it possible to replace the flowrater with a TVX?
Please look at the attached photo. I'm not sure where the flowrater device is located.

Thanks for any help.

Slash
 

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#2 ·
You remove the lock nut, place the piston/flowrater into that line where you just removed the nut from, attach the short piece of 3/8th's copper which should have been supplied with the coil with the use of that nut (short piece of copper inserted through the nut ) you just removed and tighten it all down.
 
#4 ·
I haven't removed the nut yet. I was going to do that when I'm ready to braze the lines.

The AH is new and it didn't come with a flowrater. I do have the little copper tube(it was attached to front panel of the AH). The condenser is 2 years old and it's a 2.5 ton Bryant.

The label on the Bryant condenser says to use a TXV. Is it possible to get a TXV for a 2.5 ton AH and install it on this evaporator?

Thx

Slash.
 
#5 ·
The piston would come with the condenser if condenser were new. Air handler's (evaporators actually) can be used for multiple size condensers, why the piston comes with the condenser, to match the compressor's tonnage.

Yes, you can buy a txv and use it. Make sure the refrigerant type is correct as well as the size.
 
#6 ·
Tip: remove the nut, thread the small piece of copper through the nut, braze the fitting to the line AWAY (not connected to) evaporator and then tighten the nut/line back to the evaporator with the piston now installed. This way you won't burn the O ring/seal.

If you'll be using a txv then same difference except there will not be a piston installed.
 
#9 ·
There's a rectangular plate next to the nut that I removed from the access panel.

I guess the txv will be outside the insulated air handler. Please let me know if this is how everything gets brazed.

1 - I have the 3/8 liquid line from the condenser brazed to the txv (txv covered in a wet rag so nothing gets damaged)

2 - I put the nut over the copper tube and braze it to the other side of the txv.

3 - I screw the nut to the evaporator.

4 - I heat up the cap on the suction line and pull it off.

5 - I create an inverted loop and braze it to the suction line.

Am I missing anything?

Slash
 
#12 · (Edited)
Thanks guys. My liquid line is 3/8th. How are the ends different?

Will they fit a 3/8 the line?

I guess I will keep the txv inside the AH panel and just have the liquid line going through the panel.

There's a rectangular plate that screws into the panel but I might be able to push that in so the txv is inside the AH.

Thx

Slash
 
#15 ·
I'd leave the txv external and wrap it, the bulb that attaches via a strap to the suction line, well in insulatube using DUCT TAPE to seal it tightly. Don't be shy with the insulation around the txv bulb either. It needs to ONLY sense the line temperature, no surrounding ambient temps whatsoever.

 
#19 ·
Thanks for the pics Doc. They are very helpful.

I will install the txv outside the AH.
I will see if I can get some insulation tape and a copper strap when I buy the TVX tomorrow.

I will secure and insulate the txv bulb to the suction line so it senses only the line temp and not the ambient temp.

When I I remove the nut, should I just see a hole in the tube? I'm not sure what the piston is supposed to look like but I don't think anything is behind the nut.

Thx.

Slash
 
#20 ·


It should not have the brass orifice piston in the line with a txv. If it is there simply remove it. It just sits in there, should slide right out.

These days manufacturers are putting them behind the nut, pretty much so that if we as a contractor go and and pick up a 4 ton evaporator coil and the piston is in it then it's ready to go. Now if we pick up a 3.5 ton condenser that has a piston taped to it's service panel along with the 3.5/4 ton evaporator that has the 4 ton piston in it, we'll remove the 4 ton piston from behind that nut and put the piston which came with the condenser in it's place, thus making the same coil 3.5, all by way of piston. Txv will match the compressor regardless, line temp, as yours will.

Anyway, that's what you'll be looking for behind the nut.
 
#25 ·
Seeing as how it's not a complete blockage, having both the piston and the txv installed, theoretically I could see it somewhat working but the charge would be off. I could see a tech overcompensating the charge to try and offset the restriction which could very well lead to no superheat. Then once the txv began working and closing off the refrigerant per line temp the superheat would rise as the subcool would possibly lower.

It could very well just be the txv not working to begin with.

I'd have to agree, leave it alone.
 
#28 ·
txv non-bleed type

In the txv installation instructions, it states that the txv is of the non-bleed type, therefore the outdoor unit must be able to overcome the unequalized pressure at start up.

Is there anything special that needs to be done, after pulling a 500 micron vacuum and adding to refrigerant to the system, to overcome the unequalized pressure at start up?

Thanks.

Slash
 
#29 ·
1.) Gaskets are the exact same so it's up to you.

2.) That is a clip which will hold the bulb to the line, it's correct. Just insulate the bulb very well and tape it sealed.

3.) The compressor will work on start up, don't sweat it. What you might want to add to the condenser is a 5-2-1 Compressor Saver/ Hard Start Kit. This amplifies compressor's starting power as well as saves the windings of the compressor which can and will last longer.

All it is is a very, very big capacitor and a relay which removes the super capacitor from the circuit as soon as the compressor has started. It slams the compressor into motion and then removes itself, all within a fraction of a second.

http://five-two-one.com/
 
#30 ·
Thanks Doc.

It just looked like the clip was missing a piece to snap it together after putting it around the bulb.

What kind of insulation do you recommend for the bulb? The black tube type that wraps around the suction line?

The one video shows a special insulation tape. Can I just wrap it with silver duct tape after I put the black tube insulation around it?

I can also wrap it with R8 fiberglass insulation.

I will buy a 5-2-1 compressor saver.

Thx.

Slash
 
#31 ·
What kind of insulation do you recommend for the bulb? The black tube type that wraps around the suction line?
Tube type is fine. You'll have to custom fit it, of course. Whatever you do, stay away from Armaflex-type insulating tapes that go directly on the pipe. The residue Armaflex leaves behind is a PITA to get off. Think electrical tape and multiply the evil by 1000.
 
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