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Old 06-20-2012, 01:59 PM   #31
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2.5 ton goodman coil flowrater


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Originally Posted by slash5bmw View Post
What kind of insulation do you recommend for the bulb? The black tube type that wraps around the suction line?
Tube type is fine. You'll have to custom fit it, of course. Whatever you do, stay away from Armaflex-type insulating tapes that go directly on the pipe. The residue Armaflex leaves behind is a PITA to get off. Think electrical tape and multiply the evil by 1000.

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Old 06-20-2012, 02:51 PM   #32
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2.5 ton goodman coil flowrater


Yup yup, insultube and duct tape.
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Old 06-20-2012, 09:25 PM   #33
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2.5 ton goodman coil flowrater


I think I can hook up the txv to the schrader valve built into the coil.

Is that recommended or should I braze on the fitting supplied with my txv kit?

Also, I thought the end of the suction line had a cap on it but with closer inspection it looks like there's a plug in the tube. It looks like the outside suction line gets pushed into the suction line on the coil.

How do I get the plug out of the coil on the suction side?

Please look at pic.

Thx

Slash
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Last edited by slash5bmw; 06-20-2012 at 09:40 PM.
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Old 06-20-2012, 10:29 PM   #34
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2.5 ton goodman coil flowrater


If you can screw the txv onto the coil's female threads then do it. It will work, just remember the O-ring.

That suction line 'plug' you're going to need to cut with tubing cutters about halfway. Best bet is to either unscrew the high side nut or use a screw and drill into the suction 'plug' to de-pressurize the coil first. You're going to need to remove that screw to release pressure if you go that route. On that note, if nitrogen does indeed (as it should) come out of the coil when you perform either of the two procedures, then your coil is good, no leaks from the factory.

Once that plug is cut in half, you're going to need to reem it out a bit to get the copper line to fit in there. Use some pliers, sticking them into the now open plug and twist them around with a bit of force, opening up the lip of the now cut plug. There most likely will be a few metal shavings left in there so use your finger and get them out.
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Old 06-21-2012, 06:27 AM   #35
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2.5 ton goodman coil flowrater


Thx Doc.
I believe the threads on the coil for the txv are male threads. There is a schrader valve inside the threads. I should be able to unwind the txv to reach the threads.

I will depressurize the system by removing the liquid line nut. I'd like to cut the suction line as close to the end as possible so I'm farther away from the access panel as possible.

What do you use as a heat shield around the air handler when brazing?

Thx

Slash
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Old 06-21-2012, 06:53 AM   #36
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2.5 ton goodman coil flowrater


Best to use an old metal cover of any kind, like if you have an old condenser, remove the service panel and cut it to be able to fit around the copper. If not available, use aluminum foil tape and a lot of it and again, try your damndest to not point the flame towards the coil. If you begin to melt anything or a small flame occurs such as on the tape or the rubber gasket of the coil than a simple strong breath of air will knock it out. Keep a spray bottle of water next to you as well. Sometimes the inside insulation likes to catch fire.

Almost feels like I've installed a complete system myself..
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Old 06-21-2012, 06:57 AM   #37
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2.5 ton goodman coil flowrater


Yeah, this thread will be a good place to newbies.

Thx

Slash
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Old 06-21-2012, 01:28 PM   #38
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2.5 ton goodman coil flowrater


I took the service panel off the condenser and the top of the capacitor is rusted.
I attached a photo.

Does the 5-2-1 compressor saver/hard start kit replace the capacitor or would I mount it on top of the capacitor?

Thx

Slash
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