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-   -   Is it worth having my lawn sprinker system professionally closed for winter? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f16/worth-having-my-lawn-sprinker-system-professionally-closed-winter-5248/)

J187 12-06-2006 01:36 PM

Is it worth having my lawn sprinker system professionally closed for winter?
 
Or is it something I could do myself just as well and save $100. I do not have a compressor, so I would be going without the powerflush, but I've heard from some people that it isn't necessary at all... any thoughts?

redline 12-06-2006 08:05 PM

How many feet is the system?

mdlbldrmatt135 12-07-2006 05:32 AM

You'd need to get as much of the water out of the system as you can......or could freeze and damge the system

J187 12-07-2006 07:44 AM

The system consists of 25 heads over 23K sq ft.

HarryHarley 12-09-2006 04:05 PM

What an opportunity to buy a compressor. You can get one at Harbor Freight for example, for less than $200 which can blow out the lines.
And, the value of a compressor will pay for itself. Good luck!

nomdeplume 12-09-2006 11:36 PM

I have a little eighty dollar compressor that I can carry that works great on my system, plus it beats having someone come out and charge you a service call to repair your busted lines.:thumbup:

DIWhy 02-02-2009 11:41 PM

Is it worth having my lawn sprinker system professionally closed for winter?
 
Have a look at the articles in the link below, there's one on how to winterize the home system. Don't pay for it if you are capable to do yourself, and never go into winter without blowing it out, you will regret it. It is quick and easy to do.

[url]www.associatedcontent.com/paulbronte

jpmildge 02-06-2009 10:07 AM

You can do it yourself, but you really do need a compressor. Turn water off. Drain supply line from inside basement. Connect compressor. Do not blowout through the backflow preventor. Remove or plumb in downstream as the oil from some compressors will foul up rubber washers in your backflow. It is best to run at 40-50 psi as higher pressures will create heat and stress on your components. Run each zones for two minutes each, usually the control box has a station test function that will cycle the zones through once for two minutes. If you have any 12" spray heads you will want to push them down to empty their cases of water. Repeat until no more water comes out.

downunder 02-06-2009 02:42 PM

A properly designed and installed system would have a way to drain the water. If nothing else, a T with a valve (ball valve, spigot, whatever) at the end of the supply line that you leave closed during seasonal operation. A valve at the front also will help with bleeding the vacuum. At the end of the season, turn off the water and open the valve. No need for compressors, damaging backflows, etc. Just plain old gravity!:thumbsup:

jpmildge 02-06-2009 03:12 PM

Remembered something that may help on the RainBird website. I have given this out to some of my customers that want to winterize their own systems. Follow this link to get there.
http://www.rainbird.com/contractor/l...re/general.htm


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