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Old 10-13-2008, 06:27 PM   #16
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Weeds are taking over...help


Thanks for all the good info guys, i realy appreicate it...i'm going to get right on this in the next couple days. I have a couple lime trees, any distance I should keep from them 5ft...10ft? then just pull all the weeds in that area and maintain it that way?

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Old 10-13-2008, 06:49 PM   #17
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Weeds are taking over...help


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Thanks for all the good info guys, i realy appreicate it...i'm going to get right on this in the next couple days. I have a couple lime trees, any distance I should keep from them 5ft...10ft? then just pull all the weeds in that area and maintain it that way?
Trees are tough and takes a lot to kill them Not to worry about that.

Just keep the spray to a minimum and hit only the weeds.
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Old 10-14-2008, 05:03 PM   #18
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Weeds are taking over...help


Whatever you use, check the label for warnings about using near the root zone of desirable plants. The "zines"- atrazine, simazine, etc are particularly notorius for this. Some herbicides will only damage other plants if the spray drifts on them. Some can damage nearby plants by the vapors. This applies to products with a petroleum formulation, especially in hot weather which is not as much a concern now, but... Some can be absorbed by nearby roots. Some do not absorb through the roots at all but work through contact with the foliage.
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Old 10-14-2008, 09:44 PM   #19
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Weeds are taking over...help


Went and picked up some of the image brand weed killer and spray the entire lawn this evening. We'll see what happens in the next couple days...why is this brand three to 4 times more than all the others? I dont mind paying more for a quality product, but curious what makes it better.
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Old 10-14-2008, 10:39 PM   #20
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Read the ingredients. Brand names cost more. Especially if they still hold the patent.

Example

Roundup: active ingredient is glyphosphate. Roundup held the patent for glyphosphate, so they were the only ones making it. They could charge as much as people were willing to pay. Now that the patent is expired, anyone can produce it. Generic brands such as Kleenup Pro and Honcho are the exact same thing-Glyphosphate, but can be close to half the price.

Concentration of active ingredients makes a difference, too. If you buy a ready to use (RTU) mix, you may pay $10 for a gallon. If you buy a concentrate, your cost may only $6 per gallon.
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Old 10-14-2008, 11:02 PM   #21
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Over here, 1 gallon ofroundup super concentrate (50% glyphosphate) is $75. That will make 51 gallons. that's $1.47/gallon mixed.

Kleenup Pro (41% glyphosphate) is only $47/gallon. mixed to equal the same strength as Roundup, it will make only 42 gallons. That comes out to $1.11 mixed.

So even though the Kleenup Pro has a slightly lower concentration, by the tame your done mixing it, you're still saving money, and getting the exact same product.

And regardless of what you buy, always buy the highest concentration mix you can find. Lower concentrations=spending money on filler/fluff.

Last edited by Kap; 10-14-2008 at 11:05 PM.
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Old 10-15-2008, 07:30 PM   #22
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Quote:
why is this brand three to 4 times more than all the others?
I told you so!!!!!!!!!

It's because of the research to develope a product that is selective, that is only affects certain plants and not others. Image's claim to fame is that it is effective on nutsedge while safe on turf. Cheap broadleaf weedkillers such as 2,4D are safe on lawns but not effective on nutsedge.
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Old 10-16-2008, 07:50 PM   #23
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That's why I went with the Image brand because of the nutsedge, which I have among the 5 or so broadleaf...should I use another brand to help take out the broadleaf weeds or just stick with the one brand? Just trying to maximize my lawn and minimize the weed as quickly yet as safely as possible. It also suggests not to mow the lawn for at least 2 days...do you guys think I should wait longer? I watered it in today as suggested 1 to 7 days after spraying it on. I dont see much of a change but I know it could take up to 5 weeks to work. Some bottles stated "starts working" and "notice a change" the working part ok, but I dont notice any changes yet...

I want to thank everyone that has tossed out there .02 and helped me out with this. I really think i'm going to save my lawn here and I have all you to thank...
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Old 10-16-2008, 09:32 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by jstcruzin View Post
That's why I went with the Image brand because of the nutsedge, which I have among the 5 or so broadleaf...should I use another brand to help take out the broadleaf weeds or just stick with the one brand? Just trying to maximize my lawn and minimize the weed as quickly yet as safely as possible. It also suggests not to mow the lawn for at least 2 days...do you guys think I should wait longer? I watered it in today as suggested 1 to 7 days after spraying it on. I dont see much of a change but I know it could take up to 5 weeks to work. Some bottles stated "starts working" and "notice a change" the working part ok, but I dont notice any changes yet...

I want to thank everyone that has tossed out there .02 and helped me out with this. I really think i'm going to save my lawn here and I have all you to thank...
Stick with one and see how it works. If it doesn't then check that one off your list and try another after you have used up all of that one.

Just a word of caution. This is a poison and use the amount necessary to get the job done. Don't get carried away. Over time you will know which weeds need more spray on them and which need less.

Give the weeds time to die. Sometimes they can take a week or so. If after than they don't die then hit em again.

Glad we could help you out.
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Old 10-27-2008, 07:50 PM   #25
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First find out what kind of grass you have. there are very few herbies that you can put on bermuda and st. augustine without killing one or the other. bermuda looks nothing like st. augustine. you may be thinking centipede and st. aug but bermuda and st aug, there is no comparison. st. aug leaf is the size of a quarter and bermuda the size of a dime just for comparison sake. I do this for a living as a golf course superintendent. If you have bermuda the only thing you have to stay away from herbicide wise is Poast and atrazine (that you can buy legally). If you have alot of spurge problems you probably have a nematode problem. If you live in Fla. and have spurge I would say 99% you have a nematode prob (hire a professional). If you find out what kind of grass send me an email. For a few bucks I will develop you an entire years worth of lawn care plans. Seriously not just shooting bull. Been a supt. for 16 years in the carolina's. I'll help you just find out what kind of grass.
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Old 10-28-2008, 06:57 PM   #26
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super,

Good call on the nematodes!
If my memory serves me, are they not more common in sandy soil, something not a primary concern in the Atlanta area, except maybe on a GC?

May I look over your shoulder and add that the active ingredient in Poast is sethoxydim, which is a selective grass killer. Other products with that AI would be equally detrimental to a lawn. The other selective grass killer is fluazifop-P-butyl, or Fusilade. Both are excellent for getting bermuda out of flower beds and shrub beds.

Personally, I am not a big fan of atrazine. In my opinion, it has too many drawbacks for a job that other products can do. However, it remains one of the largest selling herbicides worldwide. To save time and space, anyone wanting further info would be advised to simply Google atrazine.
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Old 10-28-2008, 08:37 PM   #27
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downunder,
you are exactly right about the sandy soil and nematodes. In my area in SC it is mostly loam type and clay. Loamy soil is susceptible but not usual for nematodes. Main thing was the grass type before making herbie recommendations.
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Old 11-04-2008, 04:09 PM   #28
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Looks like the Image product killed a lot of my weeds but I still have two different weed left. Its been a couple weeks from applying the Image. Should I re apply and see if it kills these two the second time around or should I try something else to take these remaining weeds out? I'll try and post some pictures of the two remaining weeds or get you the names of them as i'm not sure of the names right now.

Thanks for everyones help this far!! It is greatly appreciated. Also what should I do to help build up the grass I have now. Hope Depo suggested a natural nitrogen Milorganate fertilizer, what do you think? They told me it wont burn and I should but dont have to water it in. Any other suggestions...Thanks again.
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Old 11-04-2008, 06:15 PM   #29
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Just nitrogen since your lawn is established. Something like at 20-0-0 would be fine.

It's easy to not burn your lawn with fertilizer. Just don't put on too much. It's that simple.
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Old 11-05-2008, 07:06 PM   #30
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Milorganite is basically over-marketed compost. Yes, it has some fertilizer value- as does compost. But this is not "fertilizer" in the general sense.

Not saying that it is bad for your yard. But it would be more appropriate as a soil amendment/topdressing for shrubs, perennials, etc.

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