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Old 06-16-2011, 02:41 PM   #1
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Steps in planting seed?


I need to kill the grass and weed that exist in my yard, so I then can till it up and rake it to prepare in for some seed. Is it okay to just use roundup to kill all of the existing vegetation? Will this affect the seed when I spread it?

Thanks,
Albert

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Old 06-16-2011, 02:56 PM   #2
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Steps in planting seed?


the round up will kill ur grass and ur weeds. however if u till it in and reseed without giving it enough time to dissipate it will kill your need seed making it not grow. my question is why not just till in all your grass into the soil plant new grass and after it is mature enough use a good fertilizer to make your grass strong and healthy and keep the weeds away. Round up is pretty expensive and depending on the size of your lawn could be very expensive to kill the whole thing. not to mention u would have to then rake up all that dead grass dispose of it . wait at least a month maybe longer for the round up to dissipate then reseed. i would think if u cut your grass at the lowest setting and caught all the cut grass then really tilled up the yard well ( went over it a few times at different depths) it would just mix it all in and you would have just a dirt yard and could re seed fairly quickly at a lesser expense and labor.

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Old 06-16-2011, 04:18 PM   #3
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Steps in planting seed?


Roundup is supposed to be a post-emergent herbicide but I too would wait to re-seed a month or so. Your best bet may be to take the recommendation above and just plan on several passes with a heavy duty rototiller or a pass or two with a tractor. You don't want to leave clumps of old plant material. If you break it up enough the organic material will certainly not do any harm. Weed seeds or rhyzomes (e.g crabgrass) are a problem so you might want to use Roundup sparingly on those. A farm or nursery supply company will have much cheaper alternatives to Roundup.

Add soil ammendments to till in as well. Level and rake the surface. Spread a starter fertilizer and seed. Mulch over the top and keep seed moist for the germination period of the slowest seed. Roll everything in place and bond all together with a yard roller filled no more than half way with water. You do not want to compact the soil you just aerated by tilling it.

A nice mix will have PERENNIAL ryes that germinate in 5-7 days but also fescues and blue grasses that take 14-21. Beware turf blends with lots of ANNUAL rye grass. It will germinate in hours but is coarse and will only last a season taking up space in the meantime.

Once the new lawn has germinated. Cut back on your watering frequency but increase the length of time you water to encourage deep root growth. Also switch to watering earlier in the day so the lawn is dry when it gets dark and evil things like lawn moths and fungi come out to play. Mow high and please make sure you have a nice sharp blade or you can end up yanking the delicate grass shoots out of the ground.

Fertilize again with a balanced fertilizer 30 days after the last seeds have germinated. After 2-3 months the lawn should be healthy enough to withstand any side effects from application of a post-emergent herbicide. Choose for the type of weeds you have. Unfortunately, most consumer herbicides get bundled with a fertilizer.

It is already mid-June and we have had a fair amount of rain but the heat will rise soon and it will be hard to keep established lawns going without an irrigation system. New seeded ones and poorly laid sod will look quite horrible soon. Summer may not be the best time to plant a new lawn so if you can wait until Fall I would encourage you to do. If you have an automated irrigation system I guess it does not matter but you will use a lot more water now than a few months from now. The young turf grass plants will not be so stressed out either.

Last edited by user1007; 06-16-2011 at 04:21 PM.
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